Top 20 Mavic 2011 Wintech FS - Cycling Computer - 99681201 Questions & Answers

here you go dji mavic pro disassembly

Not a bike question, but just Google it! dj1 mavic controller system warning check app Google Search I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/donald_f2ed37026a3ac881

They are for sale on e-bay .

get a calculator

being a french bike I don't know who can get you a replacement , but if its just a spoke or two,, wind the broken ones around so they don't rub on the fork or frame, and I'll keep looking , so check back, wow those are expensive,, heres a link
http://www.amazon.com/Mavic-Ksyrium-SL-Bicycle-Rim/dp/B0034L0872 Is it the front or rear ? heres a rebuilt one for less http://www.competitivecyclist.com/product-components/2011-mavic-ksyrium-sl3espremium-wheel-rebuild-4051.1849.1.html

It's hard to believe a shop can't deal with what sounds like loosening spokes. OTOH, we Clydesdales are tougher on wheels than the lil guys. I used to break a lot of spokes under high torque demands, especially on several sets of Spinergy Spox wheels, then I bought a Park spoke tension gauge and meticulously trued and tensioned all the wheels on all my bikes. Haven't had a spoke issue since then.

Or you could get an old set of Spinergy Rev-X like I did a long time ago before I figured out the tension thing. If you can break or bend them you are not human.

The rear wheel has a greater load and is subjected to higher tangential forces than the front wheel. Consequently spoke nipple wear and spoke breakage usually show up first in the rear wheel. If a full truing job hasn't stopped the loosening, you have two options: remove the tire, tube and rim strip and apply thread-lock to each spoke end, then immediately re-true the wheel, or rebuild with a new set of spokes and nipples. Given that you've already had one nipple go out completely, I'd go with new parts; the nipples probably have worn-out threads so thread-lock would only work temporarily.

I've seen wheels with solder applied to the spoke nipples under the rim strip - this works until you need to true the wheel to correct a minor rim bend. The solder also adds rotating weight, which is not a good thing.

Nope. Campi and Shimano casette bodies are TOTALLY INcompatible, BUT I have had good luck with finding Campi casettes online (eBay) and having no interchange problems between my wheels and Shimano or Campi 9-speed shifters and derailleurs on several bikes. I switch wheels without concern for the other hardware.

http://desc.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=campagnolo+8-speed+cassette&_sacat=0&_odkw=campi+8-speed+cassette&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=1&_rdc=1

Within Campi there may be incompatibilities, though. If your wheels have an 8-speed Campi cassette now I think you'll be ok.

Name the brand and model. Try to find the company's support section online.

www.mavic.com go directly to there website, they have tech manuals for all their products and if you can't find it then contact customer service and they will be able to help you.

Or just take the wheel into your local shop that sells Mavic, they can order the parts for you and either you or them can install, not too hard to rebuild the mavic wheels.

In your manual it will be under SETTING YOUR ODOMETER. the manual does not specifically say, but it should be one of the flashing choices when you are setting values.

Has the hole warped, or worn?
Either way, you will have trouble with a standard size spoke!

Ask you Bicycle shop dealer if he could sell you a spoke the next size larger in gauge, but the same length-- And can yo determine WHY the hub has warped?
Perhaps there is somethig else going on, that needs checking, too--
Maybe you had best show the problem to your Bicycle repair man...

Mack B

Look at your manual for a troubleshooting guide, there usually is a reset on them. But, if all else fails, call the dealer you bought it from and maybe they have an idea what the problem is. At my store I try to keep a copy of the manuals to be able to help the customer out, but I unfortunately do not carry Mavic computers, only their wheels. I am attending the largest dealer bike show in Las Vegas tomorrow and I will talk to Mavic there and ask if anyone has an answer.This is a huge show and I will not be back until Saturday. And will let you know.

A new spoke should be around $1.00 +/-. It's better to replace it, as it sounds like the spoke nipple might be stripped, or at least compromised. It's an easy job, just follow the interweaving pattern of the other spokes. If you take the old one to the bike store, they can match it up exactly.

You need two tools: a cassette wrench or socket (it's a splined socket that fits into the cassette through the axle)and a chain whip wrench. You use the chain whip by wrapping it around one of the cogs of the cassette to immobilize it and then loosen the lock nut of the cassette with the cassette wrench. It is just like a screw or bolt. The Cassette needs to be lined up with the splines on the freehub. Find the thin spline and use it as your "key" because it is the only one that width. Then drop the new cassette on to the freehub and re-torque the cassette's lock ring. If the cassette is disassembled rather than one piece, from the largest cog first on the bottom, alternate between cogs and spacers until you are out of spacers. The smallest cogs have these cast in. As you take the old one off, the installation technique is the same in reverse.

Regards,
matt

pull the hub a part if you can not fix it take it to a bike store

make sure the sensor is aligned properly with the receiver.Remove batteries for a certain amount of time and out back,this will reset the whole unit..Hope this helps.

Check http://velonews.com/article/93054 for an article on this. Hope this helps.

Not sure if you ever got a response. I can help with half the issue. These Mavic SSC-SL wheels are a breeze to disassemble the rear hub (I've done so many times). I have these wheels on road bikes AND cross bikes. You DON'T need (nor want to use a vise). Yes, the one side is a 5 mm allen key. While the other side seems like it has nothing, you can actually (with your hand) simply grab the black axle and pull it away/off the hub. It will be a bit stubborn, but trust me, it comes off. There is an O-ring on the inside that simply keeps it sealed and on. Once you have that part off, you now insert a 10 mm allen key. With the 5mm in the other side, you can now twist and remove the entire axle and freehub. Careful, the freehub will now come off the axle, exposing the seals, a washer, AND 2 pawls that are in place by springs. Be careful not to lose the springs.

There's not much to it. Now simply inspect, lube and reassemble. Btw, this is also how you change your wheel from a Shimano hub to a campy hub.

Hope that helps.

Regards,
Corey

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