20 Most Recent
Questions & Answers
I have 2 12" and
I suggest you get a meter that measure OHMS and check each speaker to be sure that they are showing the resistance that is listed on the speaker It could be between 8 and 4 OHMS If it is not then you have a bad speaker.
Hey i dont know to
Are you connecting positive to positive and negative to negative from the sub to the amp? If so, try positive to positve (+) in the far left channel and then the negative to negative (-) on the far left channel to. If no luck do the same in the other channel with one sub at a time. Try one sub at a time, Dont try an connect 2 or more subs to one channel as this would cause the amp to go into protect mode (red light you describe). Usually the positive wire has either a line down the wire, writting on it or has a red seperate wire with it when wire end stripped to connect it. Hope this helps and please rate...
El1500 turns on but so sound
Hello fordguy, love the name i'm a ford man myself if thats why you chose it. Anyway to the amp. I buy broken amps all the time from E-bay and find which parts are bad order them and replace them and the amps work great. I just bought and recieved the same amp, Bazooka EL1500 and right away when I put power to it the protect light came on. Let me tell ya a little about car amps and the mostly the main reason they go into protect mode. First it could be something small and stupid like a fuse, sometimes amps protect light will still come on even if fuse is blown. Maybe something inside is touching something else causing it to go in to protect mode like lets say a small peice of solder is connecting to solder traces together or whatever, you get the idea. Second and this is I'd say 80% of all protect lights coming on. You either have shorted out output transistors or powersupply mosfets transistors. This is mainly the cause of this all the time. Sometimes though it's not and you have to do further testing. With your amp, I don't know what was going on at the time of when it quit. The capacitor you speak of is fine it's just the protective shrink looks melted cause thats how it was done when amp was made. You need to test all output transistors and power supply mosfets with a digital volt meter set on diode check. Let me know what you find and itf you need help just opost a comment asking for my e-mail and I will taake you thru the steps. If this helps, please rate it so I can get out of this apprentice status. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mark_b53a7494531bf96d
I have the same amp I just bought off e-bay not working. It's what I do. I buy amps that don't work then repair them and resale. Anyway mine did the same thing and your problem is shorted output transistors. Find which ones and replace. But, since this is a 1 channel amp you will want to replace all the output transistors. Make sure the replacements are from same manufactuer, same date code/ batch number. It's better to have transistors that are from the same batch cause mixed transistors can have little variations that might cause problems later on. Good luck and let me know. I will help you if you need more help. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mark_b53a7494531bf96d
Got the hot nd ground conted nd the aux cables from the raido conted nd the amp does not turn on
The amp needs a remote signal to turn on. This is provided by wire from the back of your head unit. Also look for a 'REM' or 'remote' connection on the amp (besides the 12v and ground connection).
Look at the wiring/setup diagram for your head unit to determine which wire/connection you should use for this.
If the head unit does not have a specific 'remote' wire, you can usually use the power antenna wire to provide a turn on signal to the amp instead.
Bt8250d is cutting out
Loose connection or your power cable and earth cable to your amp are not a heavy enough gauge.
Speaker Fried, is my Amp toast too?
You are sending TOO much power to the speakers, Replace the speakers and then get a much smaller amp that is within the ratings of the speakers. ACTUALLY you should get an amp that is aboout 1/2 the total rating of the speakers.
You should ALSO procure a sound meter to verify the sound level is within safe limits. If you insist upon abusing your ears with too high a sound pressure, be ready to buy hearing aids at a VERY young age.
You also need to know that the enclosure of the speaker plays a part in keeping the speaker from tearing itself to pieces.
MANY of the auto sound system installers are hacks that don't do it right and you see what happens to your expensive equipment!
Using even a Radio Shack sound meter properly will protect your preciuos hearing for later life.
If the amp is in protect mode, it probably has shorted output transistors. To eliminate other possible problems, do the following. I'll assume that you've checked the amplifier's on-board fuses.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
Disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it remains in protect mode, the amp almost certainly has shorted output transistors and will need to be repaired.
Not finding what you are looking for?