20 Most Recent Bosch Thd2021gb Filtrino Fast Cup Hot Filtered Water Dispenser - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Are you holding the flame button until the thermocouple heats up.

you dont drain theses type water heaters

you can not drain these w/ heaters

first id check shower head most has a screen in them and do get clogged from time to time since the water flows good from faucets

One possibility - insufficient gas flow or oxygen starvation might be making the pilot light dip when the main flame is on so the thermocouple bulb is no longer heated. This will cause the main flame to go out and restore full pressure/sufficient oxygen to the pilot.

Is Bosch 1600is the correct model #, or 1600ps?

Slim chance but this link might have it https://www.manualslib.com/

the knob is an electronic control knob frozen? and usually its a set it and forget it type setting

iF YOU RAN OUT OF GAS, THE LINES MAY NEED TO BE PURGED OF AIR. dISCONNECT THE GAS FLEX AND TURN THE GAS ON TO PURGE THE AIR FROM THE LINE. dO THIS UNTIL YOU GET A STRONG SMELL OF GAS. aLSO, WHEN YOUR UNIT TRIES TO LIGHT, BUT THERE IS NO GAS, IT WILL TRY TO LIGHT THREE TIMES. aFTER THE THIRD ATTEMPT, THE UNIT LOCKS OUT. yOU MAY NEED TO RESET IT BY UNPLUGGING IT, OR IF IT IS HARD WIRED, JUST TURN THE BREAKER OFF FOR 10 SECOINDS AND THEN TURN BACK ON. tHIS WILL RESET THE GAS VALCE TO RELIGHT. gOOD LUCK!

Error code EA - No sparks for the electrodes The ionization electrodes are not making sparks when water is flowing. There are many reasons for this problem and here are some; low gas pressure, fan speed is low, wire connections are loose, the air in the gas line, no gas.

1) BOSCH website shows error codes.
FO does not appear:
http://www.boschhotwater.com/HelpfulResources/TechnicalSupport/BoschAquaStarModels/2400ESTechSupport/Troubleshooting/tabid/1295/Default.aspx

2) I do not see FO error code listed on Internet search
Other FO questions at fixya seem to have no answer:
http://www.fixya.com/tags/error_f0_bosch

3) At this point, I would suggest calling a service technician.
While waiting for service, read manual cover to cover several times.

4) Your manual is valuable resource, and shows the word 'maintenance' and 'troubleshoot' frequently.
Tankless are maintenance heavy, and should be de-limed each year.
U-tube search "delime tankless water heater."

5) Also explore Bosch website for your manual and other valuable information.

6) When service tech arrives, ask that person for tips and tricks about your unit that will help you maintain your water heater.

7) All costs are energy. Install DIY tank-type gas water heater and avoid the whole headache.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html

hi julia after checking on your bosch water heater error code e14 you can try to reboot your system but if code comes back you may need to find a plumber that knows your system to fix your fan system and clear your fault code. this is the site i got info from http://www.jimsplumbing.net.au/bosch-hot-water-system/troubleshooting-guide/error-code-e14/ p.s. this site is not in the usa

when you turn on the hot water tap there is a pressure switch in the line that sends a signal to a gas solenoid to pass the gas and at the same time to the pizo to start the flame I would have that pressure switched checked as it may be sticking ( internal contamination) or have dirty corroded points as gas is involved I would suggest a gas technician do the jib when you turn off the tap, that pressure switch is shut off so the gas is turned off at the solenoid and the pizo is stopped.

The Bosch Hydropower units have poor electrical design, anyway assuming the heater is working properly, I would get it serviced for this that is <(TURN OFF GAS>), backflush water circuit, just unplug in and out water pipes and connect a hose to the outlet its easy enough to find a fitting or something, but you may need to bend the pipes around a little but do not hurt them!, the crud buildup in the pipes will reduce your efficiency like if you use it with unfiltered rain tank water you would want to clean it about every 5 years on the other hand if you have hard water as in bore water then I dont know but I think calcium buildup will be your problem. hard water clogs up everything, disassemble and clean out water inlet manifold, there is a mesh screen in there, on mine it was in bits all through the ports clogging everything up. Now if needed clean over the whole unit with compressed air to spruce it up and reduce fire hazard or if your diy then it's nice to clean things before working on them imo. Don't ask me what all that would cost! You don't need to mess round with the gas side that's all fine. Now here's what you do to fix em, this is for a Bosch Hydropower 10H but I assume it probably applies to the other hydropower models too. Ok for those wanting more information the water flow runs the electronics @ 1.5v DC wich charges the high voltage pilot igniter but it also runs the 2 solenoids for the pilot gas circuit and that pilot circuit operates the diaphragm for the main gas valve. The thing is those 2 little solenoids are grounded through the whole unit, if you look it,s not great, so what I did was add a piece of wire say 5 amp should be heaps, now connect the wire to the fixing point for ground next to the electrical box and now connect the other end to one of the chunky screws that holds on one of the gas solenoids(DON'T REMOVE SOLENOIDS UNLESS YOUR REPLACING THEM THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND DON'T ABSOLUTELY DON'T UNSCREW THE SCREWS ON THE LITTLE COLORED PLASTIC BIT, That said I used the green one at the back, don't worry it wont leak gas as long as you only remove one screw but of course (>TURN OFF THE GAS<). Tighten up all the screws, again it doesnt hurt to go over the unit and check all the screws and bolts, there is one screw for calibrating the sliding knob also. And that's it turn on the gas and water and go test your brand new water heater! More info, you can test the generator with a multimeter, just unplug it and test the voltage with the water running through it obviously. Mine was about 1.6v You could also test the resistance of the gas solenoids with and without extra wire, etc. Fyi there is a brass screw about half way up on the left side of the unit facing out that I use to bleed the gas line, at least that's what I use it for. Just unscrew it a bit while its trying to light you just have to flick the switch a few times until the gas comes through then screw it up again. Also it doesn't hurt to go over everything with some soapy water in a sprayer to check for gas leaks especially if unit is old or if you can smell gas, I imagine if there was a gas leak inside the cover that would cause some issues. Anyway you wont believe how well it works after this mod, it ALWAYS starts as long as u have gas, it will stay lit at pretty low flow levels so you can mess round with the cold tap and it wont cut out to a point, I used to just have the cover off cos I was always messing with it trying to get it to light or tuning the knobs man it drove me nuts. Now I just leave it at the mid point between my summer and winter settings. I also disconnected the lights to help it work better but I think that's overkill. You don't really need to blast the hot tap anymore if you have enough flow it will just come on. Oh and if you still need or want to better control the temps then get plumber to install a tempering valve. The flow control knob I just have cracked open but I think If you have not enough pressure at hot tap you could open flow more and also turn up the heat more. P.S. my 10H was about 10yo when I serviced it. The Wizz.

The Bosch Hydropower units have poor electrical design, anyway assuming the heater is working properly, I would get it serviced for this that is <(TURN OFF GAS>), backflush water circuit, just unplug in and out water pipes and connect a hose to the outlet its easy enough to find a fitting or something, but you may need to bend the pipes around a little but do not hurt them!, the crud buildup in the pipes will reduce your efficiency like if you use it with unfiltered rain tank water you would want to clean it about every 5 years on the other hand if you have hard water as in bore water then I dont know but I think calcium buildup will be your problem. hard water clogs up everything, disassemble and clean out water inlet manifold, there is a mesh screen in there, on mine it was in bits all through the ports clogging everything up. Now if needed clean over the whole unit with compressed air to spruce it up and reduce fire hazard or if your diy then it's nice to clean things before working on them imo. Don't ask me what all that would cost! You don't need to mess round with the gas side that's all fine. Now here's what you do to fix em, this is for a Bosch Hydropower 10H but I assume it probably applies to the other hydropower models too. Ok for those wanting more information the water flow runs the electronics @ 1.5v DC wich charges the high voltage pilot igniter but it also runs the 2 solenoids for the pilot gas circuit and that pilot circuit operates the diaphragm for the main gas valve. The thing is those 2 little solenoids are grounded through the whole unit, if you look it,s not great, so what I did was add a piece of wire say 5 amp should be heaps, now connect the wire to the fixing point for ground next to the electrical box and now connect the other end to one of the chunky screws that holds on one of the gas solenoids(DON'T REMOVE SOLENOIDS UNLESS YOUR REPLACING THEM THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND DON'T ABSOLUTELY DON'T UNSCREW THE SCREWS ON THE LITTLE COLORED PLASTIC BIT, That said I used the green one at the back, don't worry it wont leak gas as long as you only remove one screw but of course (>TURN OFF THE GAS<). Tighten up all the screws, again it does'nt hurt to go over the unit and check all the screws and bolts, there is one screw for calibrating the sliding knob also. And that's it turn on the gas and water and go test your brand new water heater! More info, you can test the generator with a multimeter, just unplug it and test the voltage with the water running through it obviously. Mine was about 1.6v You could also test the resistance of the gas solenoids with and without extra wire, etc. Fyi there is a brass screw about half way up on the left side of the unit facing out that I use to bleed the gas line, at least that's what I use it for. Just unscrew it a bit while its trying to light you just have to flick the switch a few times until the gas comes through then screw it up again. Also it doesn't hurt to go over everything with some soapy water in a sprayer to check for gas leaks especially if unit is old or if you can smell gas, I imagine if there was a gas leak inside the cover that would cause some issues. Anyway you wont believe how well it works after this mod, it ALWAYS starts as long as u have gas, it will stay lit at pretty low flow levels so you can mess round with the cold tap and it wont cut out to a point, I used to just have the cover off cos I was always messing with it trying to get it to light or tuning the knobs man it drove me nuts. Now I just leave it at the mid point between my summer and winter settings. I also disconnected the lights to help it work better but I think that's overkill. You don't really need to blast the hot tap anymore if you have enough flow it will just come on. Oh and if you still need or want to better control the temps then get plumber to install a tempering valve. The flow control knob I just have cracked open but I think If you have not enough pressure at hot tap you could open flow more and also turn up the heat more. P.S. my 10H was about 10yo when I serviced it. The Wizz.

Check the gas valve ,and pcb

might have a flow bypass valve.? check out the OM LINKED Worcester greenstar 40 cdi conventional installation and servicing

I would look on the Bosch wed site for this information .

Sounds like a faulty pcb,