Hi,
It has lost some freon and is not charged correctly...the unit is pumping down and shutting off on low pressure and then after being off a bit the pressure comes up and it restarts...
Need to check the charge and top it off and you will be good to go..
https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?hspart=Lkry&hsimp=yhs-newtab&ts=sy&type=YHS_SANM_209692&u_ip=173.89.241.28&obt9bpdyed=0&p=refrigerator+service%252Fusers+manuals¶m1=ij7zzSxCeE_ZFQBIQUqCls6ZzDPk5C0fmXr92VQU50Ci_HUrMceCf_eB8xx8ruvXD7i6jRVjcmbHw6cejr8oAfbkiqpYD6M0dT7Hk9DcpZAswcb_bYMeat-z4JwdnTmAbWoMlPvO-HDEcgVB9zbc_JQzsRk%2c I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_dc2f9e0a44104720
If condenser is clean, and everything seems to be working fine, most likely You will have a leak of freon(very slow usually) and 90% of the chance You will need to get quote to replace evaporator coils. Watch this video, might help to troubleshoot. Hope that helps.
Possibly the defrost heater could be faulty or the defrost thermostat or defrost thermistor (sometimes called D-Sensors I believe). If you turn off the fridge and let it defrost itself for 12 hours and then start it again, it may work fine for a week or two (or may even be totally fine in case you left the fridge or freezer door open by accident).
I would have tried to get you going as fast as possible, but when you have a business things are different. If you have any commercial equipment it is always good to have a source for answers. Model Numbers and Brand Names listed someplace where you know just what you have and know who to call without having to get into an expensive repair trap. I'm not saying that those that came out overcharged you but it does happen a good bit of the time. If I can help feel free to ask here or through my websites, Thanks, John Tripp/AKA Sea Breeze
First thing to do is check for ice build up on the coils and make sure there is air flow in the unit. If there is any ice build up, then try defrosting and cleaning the coils, make sure any dust build up is also cleaned off. If that doesn't help, a new thermostat may be needed. Let me know if you need anything else.
yes the ice buildup is coz of a problem in the defrost cycle... and u wud be required to test all the three components.....
first we ll see how u need to check the defrost timer....
Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the freezer
to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost
cycle of the appliance. In older models, the timer runs continuously
and roughly every six hours, shuts off power to the cooling
system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models
the timer advances only when the compressor or defrost cycle
is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer advances,
power to the heating element shuts off and power is restored
to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the appliance
will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting
in, respectively, no cooling or frost
build-up.
The defrost
timer is usually found behind the front grill of the freezer. It may
also be found behind a cover plate inside the freezer, in the
temperature control console, or behind the freezer near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply
failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise
until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode.
If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply
wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost
mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If
it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the
entire timer needs to be replaced. If
it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below
to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one
or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer
out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling
and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the
position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that
it can be replaced in only one way.
Test the timer for continuity using a multitester.
Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four
terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C".
If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides
with the common wire in the connector plug; it is usually the white
wire.
Once you have
located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other
probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multitester should
display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates
continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The
third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).
Locate
the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now
retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should
indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give
a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed
continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that
read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not
pass these tests, it is likely that it should be replaced.
* We have received two reports of cases in which
only one pair of terminals shows continuity and when the timer
is advanced, the same pair still shows continuity. For these
isolated cases, this was reported to be the correct operation
of the timer. At this time we have not been able verify this
case. This may indicate a specific model or models that use
a different wiring configuration than discussed in this article.
Also, note that this article applies to mechanical defrost
timer controls and not electronic or adaptive defrost controls.
Hi, There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not cool...here are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
you will need to replace the main control board located on the rear panel behind an access panel,this board controls all temps and digital readouts,when the readout goes dark this board is the culprit
Hi, As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...
you need to remove the rear access panel inside the freezer and find the defrost heater and check this and see if the element is open,it is under and the side s of the evaporator,and if this is good you need to see if the defrost timer or adaptive defrost board is bad
normally, most freezers will accumulate frost . it can't really be helped. however , the amount of frost can be controlled as it is basically a by-product of three things . 1.how often you open the door, 2.how well the door seals, and finally, 3.how well the food is sealed before it is frozen.
not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
