20 Most Recent Reddy HEATER RLP30 30,000-BTU PORTABLE LP PROPANE FORCED AIR HEATER - Page 9 Questions & Answers

THE FIRST THING THAT COMES TO MIND IS THAT IT IS GROUNDING OUT SOME HOW THE SECOND IS IF IT IS NOT GETTING ENOUGH AIR, HOPE THIS GIVES YOU SOME HELP, GOOD LUCK

Take the cover off, if its anewer one it is probably a glow coil ignitor.
Plug unit in, if it does not glow then either the control board where the
ignitor terminals plug in are bad or the ignitor is bad.

You can either apply 120volts directly through the ignitor leads if you
are electrically inclined and see if it lites up. If it does then part of the
board is bad. However you can tie into line 1 and nuetral and not use
ignitor terminals on the circuit board.

If you need a replacement ignitor you will have a hard time finding one,however I used a White Rodgers 21D64-2 Universal Ignitor Kit
that I got from Johnstone Heating and Cooling Supply Company.
My heater was only 3-5yrs old.

Blow out the air and ful lines and the nozzle head.

check the thermocouple, it maybe dirty, or may need replaced. the thermo is a copper tube that sticks thru the plate at the bottem of the heater, on the inside of the tube, it must be in contact with the flame, if it is not the sensor gets false signels that the flame is out,and shuts off.

Moving mine while it was running fouled the spark plug. You can remove the top of the Reddy Heater and access the plug. In my case took less than 10 minutes and it's up and running again. I removed the top and replaced the spark plug. No problems

absolutly thats al i run in mine..

Hi there,

Well first of all tell us the Brand and the model number of your heater?
Anyway you can check the power cable (cord) of your heater check for any burnt or short circuit sign......... also check the power plug is working proper or not by plugging any other device to the plug. Please reply for more help or information...........

Good Luck!!

Thanks

It has a sensor that shuts the gas flow off if there is no heat. This is a saftety in case the flame goes out. Often the sensor is not placed close enough to the flame to get hot enough, or it's bad. I'd try finding the sensor and budging it a little closer to the flame, and it should stay on, otherwise, it will need replaced. 

The thermocouple most likely has ,what I call,burned down,if the the thermocouple,is not in the flame of the pilot light,the pilot light will not stay lit.If the thermocouple is just plan,bad,has gone out,it will do this also,or will allow you to lite the pilot light,and the burners will come on,but then,it will just go off.

Time for a major tune up! Sounds as if the fuel filter is plugging up or the vanes in the pump are going bad.Check with your local lawnmower supply house.

Time for a FULL_SERVICE! and i mean FULL!

cleaned electrodes , filter and sensor oiled fan motor

remove the cover and check for spark at plug when plugged in if no spark check spark plug gor proper gap, or defective transformer electronic ignitor if you see spark check for proper pump pressure and restricted fuel flow due to seal leak, filter blocked and restriction in nozzle. I would check for defective photocell first for soot/dirt if dirty wipe with clean damp cloth remove photocell from heater and connect ohmeter on the 1000 ohl (rx1k) scale. Hold the lens up to a light source (60 wtt bulb, with the lens of the photocell pointed towards the source the resistance of the meter should be low by clocking off the light source by putting thumb over opening of cell the resistance on meter should be high, replace photo cell if a change in resistance is not observed during this test, let me know if you need more assistance

my 115 heater did about the same thing.Fuel filter was plugged.Open up the side panel on the LH (as seen from the rear of heater), should have 4 screws.Filter will be pressed in the tank,mine came out with a little effort, but it is made of plastic so I was careful.There is a small arrow indicating flow direction so I used compressed air to blow back through it.Use a flash light and check in your fuel tank to see if there is any crud in it.I have my owners manual so if you need copy of it let me know .E-mail [email protected]

go to this site:
http://www.desaparts.com/

the fan motor has on its rear an air pump. pressure from this is fed to the fuel nozzle. the nozzle is constructed like a venturi tube. as air rushes past the venturi it creartes a suction for the fuel and expels it through the mozzle. the spark or hot surface igniter ignites the fuel. the large fan pushes the heated air and flame out the end.

All gas heaters have a thermocouple that sits in the path of the pilot light if the unit does not have automatic electronic ignition and may have one then too. Pressing the button on the valve assembly to start it bypasses this safety for lighting but if the thermocouple is bad, the unit won't stay lit.
Thermocouples are pretty reliable but I'm sure the Chinese have managed to make them poorly enough to destroy the reliability and I suspect these are mostly coming from there now.
If your unit uses a pilot light, check it and look for a closed-end rod sitting in the path of the flame. This device will likely have a thin (and fragile!) tube connecting it to the valve body. Don't kink this tube while handling.
If you have a multimeter at home (everyone should; under $20 at Radio Shack or any auto parts store) you can measure it. If it is good, it should measure a very low resistance; under 10 Ohms on the lowest scale. Most hardware stores carry replacement TCs but you may have to dig through several shapes to find one that will mount in your heater.

CAD flame sensor is bad, 3$ part and easy to install.

Try to hold the button down for 30 seconds at least before turning the knob to ON.
If you are doing this and it still goes out after you let up on the knob, then it may needs a new flame sensor.

Check the fan and air supply. Sounds like it is not getting enough air with the cover on.
Hope this helps.
Matt