Rheem RQPMA037JK R410A All-in-One Package Unit Heat Pump - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

42 would be a 3.5 ton

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/vincent_f7b7c5f4dedd2565

Rheem RQPMA037JK... | Answered on Mar 03, 2015 | 136 views

that reset is for the high pressure switch. this means your compressor is getting to hot which is then increasing the pressure and tripping the switch because the fan isn't running. usually if a capacitor is bad you can give the motor a "kick start " and the blade will then start turning. use a long stick or screwdriver to spin the blade but then you will know you need a cap. that switch is protecting your compressor, don't hold it down to keep it running.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Oct 14, 2017 | 260 views

Likely a bad motor. If you have a meter and electricity confidence you need to verify that you have high and low voltage AT the motor. If both voltages present and still no motor you know it's bad. If no low voltage, possibly have a bad control board.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Sep 16, 2017 | 326 views

no it is a straight a/c cooling only unit

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Mar 10, 2016 | 37 views

This will be dependent on the capacity (tonnage or BTU/Hr) of the condenser, its location and how much refrigerant will be needed to added / replaced - plus the labor to do it. A typical 2 - 3 ton residential system (air handler / condenser - no duct work, etc.) can run $2k and up.

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Nov 09, 2015 | 159 views

If this is a reasonabley new style furnace it's because your flame sensor, they get tarnished and you have to follow the Orange wire on the left side of the burners that leads to the screw (1/4" hex) that you have to remove before you can remove the sensor. Once you do you will need to clean the sensor (it's just a rod bent to a right angle) use some fine grain sand paper, or Emory cloth, and put it all back together, and there you go.

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Jan 30, 2015 | 174 views

Check thermostat. Check for a burnt out ignitor.

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Nov 28, 2014 | 354 views

Need more info

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Nov 28, 2014 | 74 views

Possible bad motor and/or bad capacitor and/or bad blower relay.

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Nov 28, 2014 | 195 views

Reset the switch. Check the heat exchanger thoroughly for blockages, cracks or holes. Check induced draft motor for proper operation. Check flue pipe and chimney for obstructions.

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Nov 28, 2014 | 360 views

Clean the flame sensor.

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Nov 28, 2014 | 35 views

If it only lights for a few seconds you most likely have a dirty flame sensor. Remove the sensor polish it with some emery cloth or very fine sand paper. reinsert. problem should be solved.

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Nov 28, 2014 | 37 views

Look at the nameplate data on the blower motor itself. If it is an older motor, you will need the horsepower hp, the rpm, the amp draw, and the size of capacitor. Always change the capacitor when installing a new motor.

If it is a newer motor (ECM) you will most likely have to get a repair guy to get the motor and have it programmed properly at the dealer for your type of air handler.

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Sep 29, 2014 | 77 views

check your air handler overflow pan and check to see if it is full of water. If so, you need to unclog the normal drain and remove the water in the overflow pan, once level is low enough the float switch will reset and control power will start unit up again.

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Feb 11, 2016 | 246 views

You will need a 4 in 1 tool and new valve cores sold at most supply houses. It screws onto the service connection and the rod pushes in to unscrew the valve core. Once the core is loose, allow the pressure to push rod out, shut the 90 degree valve and unscrew the push rod, the valve core can easily be changed out for a new one by reversing steps. While your at it, get new valve caps with good orings to replace the old caps.

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Sep 29, 2014 | 73 views

follow the manufacturers instruction/its not a difficult matter

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Apr 29, 2014 | 266 views

On properly sized furnaces there are a few controls to look at. Check the settings of the fan switch. If these are unchanged then there may be a reason the furnace is shutting off due to poor air flow and resulting high temperature. Check filter and verify air flow is good. It may be possible that a safety switch is failing and intermittently on and off. Are all the covers securely in place and hitting any safety switches? If not seated properly the cover may loosen when the fan runs and the switch shut off the unit. There is often a flame roll out switch that could have been strained. Lastly, has the thermostat been working long? Thermostats have internal heaters to stop the furnace which is called a heating anticipator. If the thermostat is near a heat source (heat duct, refrigerator, oven, person, hot water pipe), worn out, anticipator is set wrong (older electric thermostats have adjustable settings) or covered (yes, I have seen some covered) then the free room air cannot measure correctly and the thermostat cannot control what it cannot accurately measure. Of all these possibilities I would start with the thermostat and proper furnace air flow, second check the fan/high limit switch and third go component by component through the wiring diagram looking for defects in each component. If available follow the manufacturer's troubleshooting guide.

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Jan 12, 2014 | 189 views

no pilot so it must have a flame sensor rod

Rheem Heating &... | Answered on Apr 20, 2013 | 41 views

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