Bryant 3.5 Ton R22 12 Seer Condenser Only/ Unit has an R22 Charge - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

it will work just fine. the mfd are your only concern on residential units.

This is true as long as it is not a heat pump. Make sure they replace the piston (metering device to match the outdoor units required piston size. Or if the indoor coil is metered via TXV, it will automatically meter the refrigerant flow. If you are mismatching a system, make sure an acid test is performed on the old refrigerant and take appropriate measures with the new system if the test shows positive acid. They need to definitely install a liquid line drier. Hope this helps.

Replace the entire blower motor assembly

Turn the power off at the breaker for an hour. When you turn it back on, it will reset all the functions and relays. The spiral spinning thing is the hub of the condenser fan (normally). It alerts the service engineer that the blades are spinning. Thermocouples don't move, it is just a small rod in a flame. https://www.wika.ca/landingpage_thermocouple_en_ca.WIKA Help and a link to the maker. https://www.google.com/search?q=Bryant+Evolution+erratic+fan+speeds ..

Code 72 usually has to do with start components. Either run or start capacitor could be bad, or start relay could be bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQisFmMtAis

down under, winter there. no model told. blown or tripped breaker.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/22260/Bryant-564a.html#manual

First off, do you live in a science lab…70degrees?? But, with a reliable thermometer, check the temp of the air coming out of the supply grilles. AT THE GRILLE NOT 5 feet away. Then do the same at the return. You should have anywhere from 14 to 20 degrees of temperature difference. If you don’t you likely have a refrigerant issue. Units just don’t need “gassed up”, if it does need gas you have a leak. Is the filter clean?? Furthermore, a 2 ton unit should be able to cool the space, might be pushing it a bit and 70 degrees on brutally hot day might just be too much. Hope this helps.

This model can use a generic contactor providing it is rated for the amp load of the compressor and fan of the unit. I will link a similar contactor that you can use. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Trane-CTR2573-24V-2-Pole-Contactor-30-AMP

That is a infinity system control. It has solid-state technology and has a small battery inside it to save settings in the event of a power outage or if it is taken off the wall. Removing the stat for a few minutes to troubleshoot or repair something will not wipe the settings. I would not leave it off for more than 12 hours though.

USUALLY ON THE FRESH AIR INTAKE SIDE OF THE SYSTEM

You may have burnt out your heat exchanger big $$$$ to fix

Somewhere on the equipment is your model #. Unless it is old and has faded off, it should have your model #. If this has happened, sometimes you can remove a panel and find it on the inside. The AHRI # as it has been called since 2007 would be dependent on this number.

Change the batteries

Read the manual. That's what the pros do!!

If it only has 2 wires, and the thermostat is digital, it has to have batteries. If you can't find them, pick up a new thermostat (heat only needed since you only have 2 wires) and replace. Red is power 24v & White is heat.

It could be your filter is dirty or condenser is dirty.

Should be on the inside of the door. If not, follow wires to fan and herm, common goes to contactor.

You need to check at the indoor unit to see how the condenser wire is wired in. Remember. just because a wire is red does not mean it goes to R. Your three connections will go to R, C & Y but no one could tell you what color goes where without looking at your inside unit. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

The flame sensor is located in front of the burners and will be on the opposite end from the hot surface ignitor