JBL GTO 301.1 Car Audio Amplifier - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

you will need to disassemble the entire amp, check all components and replace burned ones.
some components burn when wrong polarized.

Hello ryan_waslike,

There's a short or a ground somewhere on the system.

Start by checking your wiring and make sure there are no shorts and that there isn't any insulation rubbed off allowing a wire to come in contact with the vehicle metallic body or frame. Then disconnect the speaker and see if the amp will power up without going into protect. If it does, the problem is in the speaker or speaker wiring. Find and correct the problem and power everything back up.

Hope this helps.

Hello roets81,

Check the voltage at the amp. It's possible that the voltage is either too high (above 16V) or too low (below 8.5V). Also make sure that the amp case is not grounded. If these check out OK, the most likely cause is that the amp itself is defective and requires service.

Hope this helps.

An active crossover is needed if you plan to do a 2.1 or 4.1 or 5.1 setup.
Check if you have a subwoofer output from your head unit (most later models have). If there is, you might not need an active crossover anymore, but it depends on how you like the sound quality of the separations (low, mid, high). Please note the speaker polarities too.

Which resistors?

You need to confirm that you have B+ and remote voltage at the amplifier.

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.

There's hundreds of capacitors in an amp... The value should be printed right on them. It will have a Farad rating (F) or usually MICRO farad (uF) and a voltage rating (V). Looks like "16V 47uF"... Be aware that there's likely to be more problems than just the caps...

First thing to do is disconnect all of the speaker wires on the amp. Turn on the amp, if it is still turning on and off then there is a definant problem in the amp circuitry. If you have no solid state service skills, I highly advise you to take the amp into a repair shop. If it stops turning on and off turn off the amp and try and connect up one speaker at a time untill the amp starts to mess up. you then take that speaker and have it checked out and inspect the wireing for pinchs or shorts.

Could be a bad ground i wish u lived around me I run my own audio installation business

It sounds like you have a disc stuck and it's overriding any commands. I would put the key to acc. Then I would unplug the cd changer from the back of changer and after a min or 2 plug it back in as you hold down on the eject button

Page 168 of the manual onwards.

2008 Toyota Solara Owners Manual and Warranty - Toyota ...

www.toyota.com > owners > resources > solara > 2008

Find everything you need to know about your 2008 Toyota Solara in the owners manual from Toyota Owners. ..

No user serviceable parts! If not working just replace!

YOU MAY HAVE TO GOING THE MENU AND CHECK THE REAR SEAT SETUP

Bad or shorted voice coil on sub maybe. If you have two subs try them one at a time to see if it goes into protect mode. Whatever sub does it is bad.

It is very dependent on your vehicle and whether you are using the built-in amp of the head unit or a separate amp. Ideally, I would recommend a good 6.5" component set.

Having them wired in series. Should only be a ground issue.

Lester, probably has a remote.

You need to calculate the amount of amps being driven through that fuse + the amount you need to feed the amplifier. In my Volvo S40 and V70 I had no problems driving an amplifier of the rear power connector, but on my Honda S2000 however I had to create a different connection all the way to the battery line for a smaller amp (connection as in cables, condensers/filters and fuses).

single channel about 1kW output power. About $250 when new. Specs here http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dVhyYWWFkBd/p_115GTO1201/JBL-Grand-Touring-Series-GTO1201-1-II.html

Use a C or D size battery. Get two pieces of wire. Strip each end. Wire one end of each to the sub. The other ends you will place one on the top of the battery and, one on the bottom of the battery. If the cone moves outward, you have the correct polarity. If the cone moves inward(toward the back of the speaker) then you have the polarity backwards