Top 20 Stoves 720EF Electric Double Oven - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Someone else had the same problem. The cooling fan motor insulation appears to be breaking down due to heat/age etc. In the Stoves the fan is secured to the oven by a metal bracket. What I should say is that it appears you need a new cooling fan. However, the solution he came up with was to manufacture a bracket out of something that wasn't metal and heat resistant and replace it and it worked. I would only do this if you new what you were doing!

I haven't tried this myself but if you know what you are doing, then it is worth having a go! Firstly, if you need a new clock/timer for the 720, they are about £80 from espares.
Someone else has stated that a number of oven timers have an electrolytic capacitor which ages and cause the display to fail.. The following is from his post:-

The display went blank, and the oven would no longer operate.

By looking at the specification sheet for the timer, it appears the models vary chiefly on the series resistors installed in the mains supply. On the New World, the mains power goes through a 5.6K resistor both on the live and Neutral, making a total mains series resistance of 11.2K. Newer models presumably consume less power so need different series resistors.

Anyway, I managed to fix my timer. There was a relay, three resistors, a zero-ohm link, an ASIC (Application-specific integrated circuit) chip and an electrolytic capacitor.

Electrolytic capacitors tend to 'dry' over time. In other words, they wear out. The relay is usually in one state and not subject to wear. The resistors checked out OK with an ohmmeter. ASIC semiconductor chips tend to be very reliable. They only fail in times of surge etc, and the mains series resistors would definitely prevent that! This left prime suspect #1. The electrolytic capacitor.
The capacitor on the board was a 220uF 25V radial 125 centigrade electrolytic. These are extremely common components. Any radial electrolytic of 220uF and equal or greater than 25v, and with adequate temperature endurance will do.

I couldn't find anything over 85 centigrade endurance in my electronics box. Bearing in mind my cooker has a cooling fan, and the panel never feels hot, I took the chance on my 85 centigrade capacitor. Rated 220uF 63v.

De-soldered the original capacitor, and making sure I have the polarity correct, soldered the new one in. Polished the display, and all working like new!


As I said I haven't checked this and I presume you would get a replacement from Maplin. The standard radials are part no VH41R and VH43W and the higher heat DT64U. If you did do this you will obviously need to check if this fix is applicable ( is the capacitor accessable) and also the rating of the capacitor. Let us know how you get on.

Is the oven working normally with the exception of the bulbs?

What is the problem?

First, a handbook is available, but I will need an email address to send it to you.
TURN THE POWER OFF.
To replace the switch, you have to take the whole oven out of its kitchen furniture housing and then take the top off. ) It is held in place by normal wood screwes) All the knobs on the front panel are pull off/push on and you have to remove them. Once you have the knobs off you have to remove the glass control knob panel. On the lower edge of it at either end you will see two cross head screws going upwards. Remove these. Now the only thing holding this in place are I think three lugs on the top of the glass panel that go up and in to the top of the cooker. With a bit of fiddling, the panel should now come off, leaving you free to access the switch for replacement.
I think you will find that the thermostat pipe will link into the top back of the top oven so this has to be very carefully replaced as well, which additionally may require the back of the oven to be unscrewed.
Best of luck!

hI!! THE CORRECT NAME IS: SD1 GRILL ENERGY REGULATOR, cost is £21.61 And to replace it, just watch this video.
http://www.apart4u.co.uk/video-tutorials/cooker-repair-videos/how-to-change-your-grill-element-in-a-bosch-neff-and-siemens-cooker-or-oven.html
Thank You for using FixYa! Don't forget to rate this post!!

Press the plus button and then release to go to the next one.. There are three options.

Pls go to this site............


He is the one that handles ur probs... and his the only one got the diagram!


http://www.fixya.com/users/parsonm



Hope

First things first, the grill only works with the door down. Directly you shut it, a microswitch operates and shuts the elements off. ( Of course the top oven operates with the door shut).
There are two options for the grill. Turning the control switch to the left operates the inner element only. Turning it to the right operates both the inner and outer elements together.
With either option, setting 5 (the max) has that option on full, whereas settings 1 to 4 switch on and off.

I haven't done it, but I would imagine you would have to remove the entire oven from its housing to take the top off and then remove the front glass front control panel. ( The glass panel can be removed without taking the oven out).
The buttons on this panel are all push on/off. There are two screws located on the lower edge of the panel at either end of the panel. They point upwards. Once these screws are removed, the panel will be loose, but held in place with (3) lugs on the inside of the upper edge of the panel. Basically you have to jiggle the panel around, moving the lower edge out to overcome the lugs. Once the panel is off you will see the inner workings of the oven.

It will be on its way to you shortly.

It could be that the contacts need some cleaning. Turn the power off and then repeatidly press the buttons. This action may will clean the contacts. If this doesn't work then a new timer from espares is about £80.

No, there is no slow cook. The bottom oven works as a normal fan assisted oven and the top oven relies on elements concealed in the floor. The top oven takes a long time to warm up.

Try pressing the second and third buttons from the left together and then using the plus and minus buttons set the clock. It is normally a 24 hour clock.

There are seperate thermal (overheat) cutout devices for both the top and bottom ovens. First check to see if the lower oven fan is running ok and is not restricted by grease or fat (there are 4 self tapping screws that hold the fan cover on) and the thermostat is switching off and on as it should. You should also check that the main background cooling fan is running and switches off a few mins after the ovens have turned off. If these check out ok, then it is possibly the lower oven thermal cutout.

Can you clarify which fan stays on and which switches off?

When you turn the bottom oven on, does the fan start to run in the oven? Do the oven lights come on? Does the main cooling fan switch on? Does the oven control knob illuminate? Does the thermostat neon illuminate?
As a guide, the power/control for the bottom oven is via the main switch on the front panel. Power then goes from the switch through the thermostat to the the oven/element/fan. The lights go direct from the switch.
I hope this helps.

I have posted this a number of times. Please look at other answers to obtain the info.

Looking at the circuit diagram, it appears that there is a problem with the programmer. There is a contact that operates in it to provide power to both top and bottom ovens. The feed for the grill is prior to this contact, which explains why this is still working. Is the clock/programmmer set correctly? In some ovens, if the clock is not set then the ovens do not work. You should be able to hear the realy operating when the clock is set. If you need a copy of the handbook then if you supply an email address, I will send you a copy.

Supply an email address and you can have a copy.