Top 20 JBL PSW-D110 Speaker Questions & Answers

The fuse is a 250volt 1.25 amp slow blo.
First thing I would do is check C6 to see if it is bulge or blown - regardless replace it with a 10ufd 100volt Non-polarity capacitor. If the fuse blows again unplug the blue wires from the transformer and plug in unit to an outlet. If fuse does not blow then problem is on PC board. I have a service manual for this item. Probable causes on PC board are Filter Caps, Bridge rectifier (DBA), Amplifier module, or fragments of C6 even causing shorts on board if it had blown.

I have bought C6 from MCM Electronics for under .50 cents but you have to put shrink tube on one lead and bend it back along the body and solder both leads in the board.

Good luck

hi,
Is it JBL TLX 420 then its impedance is 4OHMS. You cant connect these speakers to denon rcd m 37, because its output impedence is 6 to 16 ohms.
ok

What happens if you disconnect only the source end of the RCA's? Atmospheric noise can enter through the cables if their shields are grounded well.

Google: "speakers buzzing"

It is the Class D power amplifier module that JBL uses a lot in the powered sub-woofer, they are very unreliable and hard or impossible to get.
I had modified them to use linear power amp IC instead.
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/JBL%20PB-12%20mod/

Remove all screws from back panel grab power cord and pull. The panel will pop off!

I would say it's a case of bad filter capacitors in the power supply. Without the capacitors, the AC power line doesn't get smoothed out enough when converted to DC by the supply, and you hear the hum that gets through. I have never worked on on one of these so I can't tell you how to open the case to get at the supply. It's not always a simple job. But if you can get at those caps and check them, you'll probably find them at fault. It's not a difficult job to remove and replace bad capacitors if you are comfortable using a soldering iron. Just make sure that replacement parts have at least the same voltage voltage rating and capacitance values as the originals. It never hurts to go higher by a little, but not lower.

The most common reason for the fuse blowing is a failed class D output amp module, which unfortunately is rather costly and unique to this product. I just repaired one of these for my brother. You might get lucky here, but JBL recommends reflowing the solder on the amp module because of experiences of bad solder joints. It doesn't take long to remove the rear cover and expose the amp module's bottom. The module is about the size of a pack of playing cards, and is near the center of the printed circuit board. Remelt all the solder joints in a row along the bottom, adding a little bit more solder, and see if that works. I've got the service manual in PDF Found online at harmon kardon by googling the model number and "service manual", but not at the computer I'm at right now. This is a nice sub, for sure. Contact me if you give up and want to get rid of it.

The Class D module may have failed,
Service manuals:
Psw-d110_DPS-10_RevF sm.pdf

Please leave rating if it helps.

JBL uses badly design amp modules.
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/JBL%20PB-12%20mod/

Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide: http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague Parts: www.shopjimmy.com Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/Default.aspx he can make you a set of caps. Or www.digikey.com, just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current and long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.

If it makes any sound at all the speaker is probably not blown, the connections are probably on and the fuse is ok.

You don't say to what it is attached and if the setup for bass/lfe managament settings produce the same or a different result than program material does.

You also don't say how the sub is driven (speaker level or Line Level) and if it's a full-range or low-frequency-only input. All these things matter, as does your source electronics and its settings for bass management.

Try setting the low-pass higher and the high-pass lower.

The manuals would be a good place to start. Go to retrevo.com.

There is a fuse inside (250 volt 2.5amp slowblow)

Check and replace C6 with a 10ufd 100volt non polarized capacitor.

I have a service manual if you can not find one!

Go to Parts Express and buy the Bash 300w digital subwoofer amp.It fits almost exact except it is one inch shorter.Just use mdf to fill the space and this amp will outperform the original.I have done this and it's not really difficult,pretty straight forward.
They usually sell for around $149,but they have sales often around $99.Good luck.

I don't believe this hookup is amplified; but, if you have used the regular unfiltered speaker connections from your receiver/amplifier to hookup the subwoofer, the system will pass the signal thru the outputs subject to the crossover adjustment on the back panel. You cannot get the full signal if your system is sending only the bass signal to the subwoofer. I have copied the instructions below from the manual. You would set the high freq crossover to the low end of your satellite's frequency range. The full manual is here: http://www.jbl.com/EN-US/Products/Pages/ProductSupportDetails.aspx?PID=PSW-D110

High-Pass Control
• If you hooked up your subwoofer
as shown in Hookup
3 on page 4, you also have
the capability of adjusting
the high-pass frequency.
The High-Pass control
determines the frequency at
which the main speakers
will start reproducing
sounds. If your main speakers
can comfortably reproduce
some low-frequency
sounds, also set this control
to a lower frequency
setting, between 50Hz –
100Hz. This will concentrate
the subwoofer’s
efforts to the ultradeep
bass sounds, while your
main speakers continue to
reproduce the mid-bass
information. If you are
using smaller bookshelf
speakers that do not extend
to the lower bass frequencies,
set the high-pass crossover
control to a higher setting,
between 125Hz – 180Hz.
With this setting, your main
speakers will not have the
burden of reproducing any
low-frequency sounds.
• If you hooked up your subwoofer
as shown in Hookup
1 on page 3, the high-pass
frequency is fixed at 180Hz.
• If you hooked up your subwoofer
as shown in Hookup
2 on page 4, there is no
high-pass control. Unless
your receiver/amplifier
incorporates a high-pass
crossover, your main speakers
will continue to get a
full-range signal.
Final adjustment and blending
of the low-pass and high-pass
controls may evolve over several
listening sessions. A good
starting point would be to set
both the low- and high-pass
controls to the same frequency
and adjust from that point.

Yes then unit is repairable, all depends on how many parts ar damaged and how skilled are you.
The power source is damaged, that is clear - the buzz is the mains noise. If you can fix it - it's very simple - then you will have to check the amplifying IC's. If they are damaged they must be replaced.
You can find its service manual here
http://www.nodevice.com/manual/newmans/jblharman/PSW-D110_smpdf/get47207.html

This kind of symptom is usually caused by a bad capacitor, or capacitors, either in the power supply, or in the low pass circuit. Electrolytics go bad after a few years and dry up, and replacing them will restore the sytem to virtually new.
Replace them all, if in doubt...they're cylindrical and usually made of metal, with 2 or 3 leads.
Good luck, and hope this helps.

Look out in the following link
http://www.e-servicemanuals.com/product-view.php?prod_id=102214110

All you need to do is replace the part that is smoking and the fuses and the unit might come back to life. As the burning part is most likly the cause of the fuse blowing.

How should it be wired

Hi,
If power transformer T1 got shorted or its output voltage got shorted for some reason, fuse will blow in Sony SA-WMSP1 active subwoofer.
Check power transformer, D401 bridge rectifiers and IC301 power amplifier out chip. Any of them is bad.
Let me know if you have additional question.
Thanks.

What's feeding it? The sub comes on automatically when it senses a signal, which seems to be what it's doing. Perhaps the loud clicking is originating at the other end of the cable.