Jl Audio 10W3v2 Car Subwoofer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Connecting the two voice coils of each driver in series (+ to -) and the drivers themselves in parallel (+ to +, etc.)

If this woofer is a dual voice coil woofer and if you are running your amp bridged or in mono would suggest try wiring your woofer in series.But before Idid anything I would unhook the woofer from the amp and pop it with a battery to make sure your woofer is still connected.

Id say take it back to where ever you bought it from and get an exchange. Have them test it there and see if it works. I have a JL W6 and have had JL's for a long time.To hear of something like this with a new JL is very rare. Just may be some kind of defect. Bring it back, get it tested and go from there.

try one at a time. if they work then try hooking them up differently. if none work, then check to see that your amp is not in protect mode. if amp is ok, then check to make sure you have your rcas connected to your amp. in other words, re-check all your wiring. if still nothing, try your amp on your friends car and vise versa.

well you can go a couple different directions. you can wire them parallel or in series. parallel will get you down to about 1.3 ohms at the amp and series will get you close to 4 ohms. you need an amplifier thats stable at either of those impedances. the lower the resistance (impedance) the more power your going to get to the subs. I manage an electronics store and specialize in mobile audio/video. we are a 'Signature JL Audio Dealer' so i like to say i know the product line very well. JL makes an amplifier that is stable from 1.5 to 4 ohms and will put out the same amount of power at any impedance in that range which is really nice. Its called their 'Slash Series' you are looking for a JL Audio 500/1 amplifier. Grab an 8 gauge amp kit (4 gauge would over do it) and wire 'em up. Enjoy!

because of plug lost

Take an OHM meter and measure the resistance on both the positive and negitive leads. It should read 2, 4, or 6 OHMS. This depends on the model either a D2, D4, or D6. If you read that reading correctly then see if there is a capacitor located on the the cone itself or in that area. If it is not visible then that would mean that it is located inside of the magnent area.

ok try your sub on another amp is first find out if that works or not if it works then there's a good chance you amp is knackered

Specs say it depends on the impedance of the speakers. https://www.jlaudio.com/products/jd250-1-car-audio-amplifiers-98360 https://www.google.com/search?q=jl+250%2F1+amp.+Wiring+diagram ..

sounds like the amps not rated for the resistance tha subs have it running at....are they a dual 2 or dual 4 ohm?is the amp rated for 1ohm? sounds like amps going into protect mode

Sounds like you either shorted something out or overloaded the amp. Is there any odor coming from it? If so It will need to be repaired or replaced. What did you have connected to it and how was it wired?

You will need to open it up to see if anything damaged. That does not look good at all from the outside.

In your world, what does best results mean to you. how are the hifonics mounted? open air, closed box, vented box (optimized to what freq)? trunk or inside vehicle? all these variations weigh heavily on your configuration. As does what 'best results" means to you.

Check your ground to make sure it is properly grounded

Disconnect all the speakers one at a time and see if it stops doing that, if it does you have a shorted speaker or wiring

Amps that big are usually fused on the feed wire, under the hood of the car, near the battery.

Re tune your amp

Check your speakers wiring to make sure they are not touching. This will make your amp go in protection mode.

Here's the Datasheet on the TDA7297 IC: http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/25110/STMICROELECTRONICS/TDA7297.html This should work for you. It also shows a recommended circuit for the part.

JL Audio JX1000, XD600/1, HD750/1 would all work nicely with those.