Top 20 Jl Audio 1000/1 Car Audio Amplifier Questions & Answers

It is risky to do that ,but it can be done.This is not recommended without an Oscilloscope.

Thank you this was a great help

DO the BIG 3 (wiring using high quality 4 guage copper wire connecting alt to chassis, chassis to amp, alternator pos to batt pos, and then REPLACE your stock battery with a kinetic. like a 1200 or bigger.

Do you have a capacitor????? If not, when its up loud and hitting hard it might be going into protection because of a voltage sag....If it goes below 11.8v they will usually do that.....Get a multi meter and put on the hot and ground of your amp when its playing loud and see what the voltage is dropping to.....If its going below 12v, thats your remedy...gd luck....

Problem could be that you need to upgrade your battery, do the "big 3" wiring by a professional. Get a kinetic 1200 or bigger to replace your stock battery, drive your car for 5 or 10 miles, and watch your amp not shut down. People just dont do the big 3, and they think their stock lead acid will hold 13 volts after the power is shut off. LOL. KINETIC.

It might be an issue with the crossover network. A high pass cap may be shorting intermittently. You may also have a loose wire abraiding somewhere.

Hi

Maybe the cable you're using is bad. Buy another Rca cable. If the amp turns on and you get nothing out, check the settings on the amp. Otherwise either the RCA's are fried (Input) or the amp is bad (Output) .

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either a repair shop or buy a new one.

Sometimes there is a fuse inside but they are usually thermal and reset when they cool. You said u blew a 60 amp fuse. Is that what the manuf reccomends? Check your remote turn on wire (blue) make sure u have power on the remote wire when you turn the radio on. only thing really left are the grounds

No, However, you should. Best conductor for your signal path. Brass screws aren't too terribly expensive and you can get them at ACE or Lowes hardware almost always.

Check the ground wire to the car make sure that you have bare metal and that the contact between the car and the wire is good. Ensure that the ground wire is in all the way. What size ground wire are you using. I would say don't use smaller than 4ga for a 1000 watt amps.
Also has the amp been screwed or velcroed to the box? Sometimes amp connections become loose from the vibrations of the bass. So it's possible it might be an internal issue or that the wire isn't in all the way.
I would suggest also taking the amp completely out of the car and inspecting the terminals to make sure they aren't loose or corroded.

Hi, if you're going to run a smaller wire, you also need to use a smaller fuse. A 50 amp fuse is needed for 8 gage wire. The fuse is there to keep the wire insulation from melting, which is what will happen if you run too much power thru the wire. If you don't plan to turn the amp up too high, this may work fine, but I would test it first with a 50 amp fuse before installing. You will need all of the speakers hooked up and the gain set to max to test the power draw. See the following link on wire sizing for more info: http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm

You need to get another capacitor and wire it in series with the fist cap when you crank the volume your system is not getting enough power from the alternator this is called surge current. In modern electrical systems we use capacitors to compensate for these surges.

Check The Settings On The Amp.... There Is Probably a Setting Turned All The Way To Max on it. Is There 2 Rca Cables Hooked to It ? Try Switching them around And Seeing if It Gets Better Or Un Plug one of them And See if It Gets Any Better, Would Definitely Check The Settings On The Amp First to See if That your Problem. Hope This Helps :-)

Good be a ground issue from the headunit. Try running the amp off another source (another deck, an ipod etc) See if it goes away then.

I had a Pioneer amp that did this too. There is no easy fix to it. Just try to keep it cool.
It shuts itself down when it gets to hot so it doesn't have a catastrophic failure. (melt)
There shouldn't be any issues with being wired to your car battery.

Make sure its got plenty of open space(if possible) add a fan maybe.

Or take some of the load off of it by 1. Adding an amp. 2. Turn it down

I would take option 1 You have the amp so you can turn it up in the first place

Good luck

sounds like you may have a bad solder connection inside of the amp.

By saying you checked the impedance is that measured with a meter or the the rated impedance as printed on the back of the sub, as the two differ. Impedance is the resistance to current offered to a current by a coil which differs from the resistance measured by a multimeter because of the effect of the magnetic field built up by the (voice)coil when a current passes through it.
Disconnect all speakers from the amp. Disconnect the input from the head unit. Use different wiring to run power and earth direct from the battery. Connect the sub. Jumper a wire between positive and the "remote on" connection at the amp.(This will power up the ampwithout the use of the head unit) Does the problem persist? If so, the problem is most probably with the power IC's. You can attempt to swop them out yourself or have the amp sent in for repair. You'll need a philips screwdriver, solder and a soldering iron. The power IC's are mounted on the amp casing held in place with 2 screws and an aluminium plate and of course the solder on the circuit board. You will need to remove the whole circuit board from the casing in order to desolder the IC's. This is done by unscrewing all the screws that hold the IC's in place. The power IC's are the large ones(should be 2) with the many pins(about 12) that are soldered into the board. Desolder (use a paintbrush to wipe away the hot solder) the IC from the board and take it with you when purchasing new. This is a bit of a gamble because you dont know for sure that is where the problem lies so it's up to you. With reassembly you will need some heat conducting paste between the IC and casing.
After connecting new wire as described above, sub connected and no warning light, connect the input from the head unit. Replace the sub with any speaker of at least 4 ohm impedance. Use 1 speaker only. Do not connect other speakers. Does the problem persist? If so your amp is definately faulty. If not the sub is at fault or you've wired it wrong.
When wiring a sub to an amp wire (+) from amp channel A to (+) on sub. (-) on sub to (-) on amp channel B and set the amp to "bridged" mode. Adding more speakers to the amp in this fashion will lower the impedance so it is not advised. If you want to use more than one sub, wire each one to its own channel on the amp and turn off bridge mode(recommended), or set bridge mode but connect the subs in series : (+) on amp to (+) sub 1, (-) on sub 1 to (+) on sub 2, (-) on sub 2 to (-) on amp.

Bear in mind that with the amp installed correctly and the correct rating load applied to the output, if the problem persists, you have a problem in the amp. It is not user serviceable, unless you have electronics training and the correct measuring equipment(Oscilloscope, multimeter). You can continue substituting parts, but that is a hit and miss affair untill you happen to replace the correct part. I only suggested the power IC's as that is the most probable cause of the problem.

Below is a diagram of commonly used configurations. There are more, but these are the most common. The resultant impedance is underlined in black. RE is remote on, signal connection from the head unit is not shown. If you are using 2 ohm speakers all the values can be halved, which means the bottom left configuration will leave you outside spec.

the noise is from the alternater i believe. you just need to buy a noise filter and install it. i believe this problem is from power supply for your amp going straight to the battery. is that helpful?