20 Most Recent Kicker KX500.2 Car Audio Amplifier - Page 7 Questions & Answers

U don't - if abused the insulation on speaker windings will expand and wedge the voice coil in the magnet gap. Only fix is to replace entire driver - sorry.

You need to figure out what ohm capacity is of the amp and the speakers. It then comes down to wiring.

first check to see that the fader is not programmed to the front speakers fading it rear might solve your problem, second if your stereo has a 4 ohm load requirement at the output and your new speakers are 8 ohms this will cut the power output in half, your best bet is to get an amp if these do not solve the problem.

Throw it away, usually there will be some damage to the voice coil if the excursion has exceeded the design specs

Time for a bigger amp or better wiring to the amp. You can try a cooling fan setup to cool the amp. Brushless computer fans work pretty good, draw very little current and move quite a bit of air and they're really cheap to buy.

Rum a fused power line to the Battery, a fused remove on from the head unit or keyed fuse in the fuse box, ground it to the chassis, hook up the signal source using speaker wires or pre-amp cables. Bolt it down so it wont more while driving

Factory has 6" door speakers and a pair of 6"x9" on the rear deck

Well... replace it

Speaker hitting anything in the truck like seats or floor if they fire down? Enclosure in the way or not secure?

Does the enclosure volume and style/type match the sub requirements? Are the subs wired correctly? I've seen lots of marking on the wrong terminal. Try switching one of the subs from pos to neg and neg to positive. It will be dramatic and very noticable if that's all it is. Is your cutoff frequency correct for the sub? Make sure they're not getting full spectrum frequency. Are the Subs physically hitting any part of the enclosure at any point in the excursion? Are they screwed securely to the enclosure? Is the sub surround intact and smooth through the full extcurion? Is the amp ok? Got enough current throughout the system? Battery, Capacitor, Wiring, fuses, speaker wire etc. Bigger is better but always the correct fuse rating. Signal from the head unit? Proper preamp wiring?

Time to start upgrading! Think power delivery, then amps, then speakers, then enclosures. If you need more voltage, add batteries, capactors etc, if you're exceedingg the amp output range, you'll blow speakers (no matter what the speakers are rated for), if you have good power and the amp(s) are fine, your speakers may not be up to the task

Your exceeding the output of the amp powering the main speakers. if you're using deck power, time to buy a full range amp to add to the sub amp. if you have an amp already, check to see if there's a thermal protection cutout. Mine has a light that lets me know its out due to overheat

That's only normal for the burn in period. Make sure you're not running it in 2 ohm by wiring the sub wrong. That amp is not really 2 ohm stable for a sustained period