20 Most Recent Kicker KX500.2 Car Audio Amplifier - Page 2 Questions & Answers

There's not a "best" setting to use - the settings you use are based on your installation, system configuration, and listening preferences. That being said, with cheaper amplifiers like this, there are some basics that I can give you. Crossover Your crossover prevents frequencies your subs can't effectively reproduce from being passed through to the drivers. There's two basic ways to implement a crossover in a car audio system. You MUST use one of them.

1. Most headunits have a built-in digital (active) crossover that can be set inside the radio's settings. This type is preferable due to the better waveform characteristics that ultimately get sent to the drivers after being amplified. If you don't have or don't want to use this method than use option 2.
2. There will be a passive crossover dial/knob (or on very cheap amps it may simply be a switch) on your amp that can be used to set the crossover frequency.

What frequency you use is somewhat subjective, but a safe bet for subs is to keep it under 100hz. The larger the speaker, the lower the frequency. (100Hz should work well for your 10's) Gain

• Set your gain no higher than 80%
• To find the safe threshold, play music with some heavier bass and increase your radio volume until you begin to hear distortion in your mid/high range. Back the volume down until the distortion resolves.
• On your sub's amplifier, with everything hooked up, gradually increase the gain until you start to hear distortion/clipping from the subs. Back the gain down until it resolves

Other/Misc.

• Do NOT use "bass boost" or "loudness" settings that many cheap amps come equipped with. These artificially bump-up the output of your system and almost always produce "dirty", distorted, and damaging waveforms that will drastically reduce the quality of sound and the life-span of your speakers. If you find yourself needing to use them to get the effect/volume you want, you either have your settings incorrect, or (more likely) need to simply invest in higher-power/quality hardware.

It sounds like you are having an issue with your Kicker HS10 subwoofer. The red protection light being constantly on could indicate that there is a problem with the subwoofer that is causing it to enter protection mode. Here are a few things you can try to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Check all of the connections to ensure that they are secure and properly connected. Make sure that the power and ground wires are properly connected to the battery and chassis, and that the RCA cables are securely connected to the amplifier and the subwoofer.
2. Check the amplifier settings to make sure that they are correct for the subwoofer. The amplifier should be set to "low pass" and the crossover frequency should be set to a frequency that is higher than the subwoofer's rated frequency range.
3. Check the subwoofer itself for any visible damage or loose wires. If the subwoofer has been damaged or if there are loose wires, it may not be functioning properly.
4. Make sure that the subwoofer is not being overdriven. If the amplifier is producing too much power for the subwoofer to handle, it can cause the subwoofer to enter protection mode.

I hope these suggestions help you get your Kicker HS10 subwoofer working properly. If you are still having issues after trying these steps, it may be necessary to contact Kicker for further assistance.

Hi, Please check that you've swapped out any associated batteries of your amplifier. And also, please double check that you're using compatible fuses as some manufacturers build their machine to only work with their own products like fuses. If all of these things fail, you might need to reach out to the manufacturer of the product if you don't have access to the manual for troubleshooting. Thank you.

Send it back to maker for repair.

CX400.1 Mono Amplifier - KICKER

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Kicker advises not to overdrive the system because it can burn stuff up. Having that much power does not mean you listen to it that loud. It means there is something called headroom in amp range that allows it to supply the needed power for bass response when it has to. There is also the issue of impedence of the speakers and how it affects wattage. Lower impedence impedence results in higher wattage at the cost of heat. There is nothing listed I see that can take all that amp has to offer. Also be sure that the cross over is working to seperate the signals to the speaker.

Yes but you will need to put them in a wooden box

From the information I could find on that amplifier, it is stable at one ohm and provides 700 W RMS at that resistance. With two four ohm dvc subs you can wire them parallel/parallel for a final load of one ohm.

" this amp "? The one that only you can see? :>D

it appears that the left channel is defective, repair or replace

Your Kicker has gone into protect mode and will stay that way until the component level problem is found and fixed.

limited information generic answer -notify kicker customer assistance and will need to let them know what vehicle

If you connected speakers in parallel then two speakers have combined resistance of 2 ohms. You need to connect speakers in series

Here is your answer: https://www.fixya.com/support/t10052958-sx650_1_kicker_locked

Hi Hector, if all the wiring is connected properly, you then mite have a problem on the circuit board, or with the subwoofer itself. While its switched off try moving the switches one or two times just in case there is a dry contact. Next would be to take in the unit for an independant bench test before opening the unit. Cheers.

About all you can do if your really wanting to "fix" it, is tear it apart & completely recoil both voice coils.
Otherwise you can just run it on the one good side like a single voice coil sub.

Remove power

It belongs in the 4 port molex that has the RED, Blue Blue/white and last wire should be black

If going sealed I would aim somewhere in the 1.5 to 2.0cuft area. That sub can go in a 1.0 cu ft box to 2.4 depending on the room you he the bigger is usually better for sound quality

First, that amp, has too much power for that sub. Even though it isn't really outputting 2500 watts, (realistically putting out 650 watts). That sub is only rated to handle 150 RMS, 300 Peak, 1000 watts will blow that sub very quickly.

First thing you need to do is find a sub which better matches the output of your amp.

The second thing, you need to make sure that your vehicle's electrical system is able to handle the additional current draw.

Address these things before you install your gear.

I've been a 12v installer for going on 28 years

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