Top 20 Kicker Solo-Baric L5 Car Subwoofer Questions & Answers

Move all the grounds to chassis grounds of the van. There's more metal there to make a clean connection than to the wire you're using. If it sounds good now, enjoy it. Likely will be a very small change in performance unless your're running out of current on the big, sustained bass sections. If so, add a second capacitor ran in series and possibly a second deep cycle battery. There will be a point that your alternator can't keep up with the draw. Then you're gonna spend some money!

Sometimes silicone if its a very small rip. Usually, junk it and get a new one

Min volume .66 Cubic feet, Max 1.25 cubic for for the 10" sub, Min volume .88 Cubic feet, Max 2 cubic for for the 12" sub

The issue with your speaker is either a bad connection or a blown speaker. Check the connection and make sure that it is soldered and not touching the vehicle.

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If they are 2 ohms I would recommend dropping to 1 ohm for maxium out put. To drop to 1 ohm you are going to run the 2positives and 2negitives together in either a bridged or monoblock 1500w amp. After doing so i would get the spects for the speakers freq. ect. or go to a quality audio store and most of them will help tweek it for free. I would recommend Kicker ZX1500.1amp for best compatiblity.

http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43749
There a few people that rebuild subwoofers on that website.
Possible help otherwise, just buy a refurbished L5
Hope this helps.

If the coil on the inside is looking ripped, it must be rubbing against the inner walls of the magnet. check of failure of continuity of the coil. if open and rubbing then you will need to replace the coil. I shall guide you through this job. carefully disconnect the coil lines to the frame, then using a good sharp tool remove the side suspension and the inner spider that suspends the coil. now you can remove the whole assmebly. if the coil is damaged then slowly cut out the coil, get a replacement of the same diameter from the spare parts shop. if not available you will need to have some experience to wind the coil in the same diameter with the same SWG. Once you get the coil fix it carrefully to the speaker diaphragm centrally, then centrally place into the speaker mountings with the coil just in the gap, not rubbing against the magnets. now you can glue out the spider and suspensions. there you are. Good luck .

Go to this link for wiring diagram

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-eGdYJe35m9Q/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html

Take out of the box, and hook them up to your amp one at a time, if it makes a cracking noise its blown

Yes you replace both voice coils. Get parts from another speaker but has to be equle in quality.

Firstly, lay all 3 speakers face down next to each other. Note the connections +- +- +-. The first + will go to the amplifier. The next terminal(-) will be connected to the center speaker(+). Take the center speaker (-) and connect to last speaker (+). The last terminal(-) will go to amplifier. Please note that your amplifier has a bridge section which is normally the first + and the last- on the two channels. Connect your woofers on the bridge.

i bought two Audiobahn A2300hcx on ebay for a little over 400. look around on ebay you can really score sometime dirt cheap........ Check out audiobahn amps, never did me any wrong...........

Option 1 (parallel/parallel) = 0.5 ohm load
Voice coils wired in parallel, speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 1/2 ohm mono
Option 2 (series/parallel) = 2 ohm load
Voice coils wired in series, speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 2 or 1 ohm mono
Option 3 (series) = 8 ohm load
All voice coils wired in series
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 4, 2, or 1 ohm mono Option 1 (parallel/parallel) = 1 ohm load
Voice coils wired in parallel, speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 1 ohm mono
Option 2 (series/parallel) = 4 ohm load
Voice coils wired in series, speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 4, 2, or 1 ohm mono

Option 1 (parallel) = 2 ohm load
Speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 2 or 1 ohm mono
Option 2 (series) = 8 ohm load
Speakers wired in series
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 4, 2, or 1 ohm mono
Option 1 (parallel/parallel) = 1 ohm load
Voice coils wired in parallel, speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 1 ohm mono
Option 2 (series/parallel) = 4 ohm load
Voice coils wired in series, speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 4, 2, or 1 ohm mono Option 1 (parallel/parallel) = 0.5 ohm load
Voice coils wired in parallel, speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 1/2 ohm mono
Option 2 (series/parallel) = 2 ohm load
Voice coils wired in series, speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 2 or 1 ohm mono
Option 3 (series) = 8 ohm load
All voice coils wired in series
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 4, 2, or 1 ohm mono
Option 1 (parallel) = 2 ohm load
Speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 2 or 1 ohm mono
Option 2 (series) = 8 ohm load
Speakers wired in series
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 4, 2, or 1 ohm mono
Option 1 (parallel) = 2 ohm load
Speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 2 or 1 ohm mono
Option 2 (series) = 8 ohm load
Speakers wired in series
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 4, 2, or 1 ohm mono

Probably not.

And if it was repairable the cost would negate any benefit.

if you have an amp then you hook it up normal... left side + from amp to + to speaker... - from amp to - to speaker, and same for other speaker....

if no amp then i'm not sure your radio will push that big of speakers, but you would hook them up normal.... hope this helps.....

i dont see why not you could probably do 2 in a ported box and make it sound 2 times as better then sealed

The speakers should be fine but i wouldn't push that much power to them thay are now in a weaked state

You should bridge your speaker on the amplifier. Check your connections on your amp. Normally it will be the - (Minus) on the left channel and the + (positive) on the right channel