20 Most Recent Lectrosonics FENDER PD-250 PASSPORT SYSTEM + 1 SHURE HANDHELD&1 LAVALIER WIRELESS SYSTEM / Microphone Questions & Answers

There are screws running down the sides of the front panel which you will have to remove. The circuit board is secured to the front panel by the nuts, washers etc. that the controls and jacks are fastened with. Once you get the panel; loose gently move it forward so you can see any connections to the circuit board. Make careful note of all of these and draw diagrams. You will have to completely remove the panel from the enclosure and then the circuit board from the panel. The jack in question will be mounted on the circuit board and soldered to it on the reverse side. You will need to unsolder it, obtain an exact replacement, solder in the replacement and replace the board on the panel and the panel back in the enclosure. Make sure everything is connected exactly the way it was originally. Hope this helps.

One or more of the power transistors are shorted. There are eight transistors in the amplifier section - 2 high & 2 low for each channel. This unit is difficult to open up to work on.

Unplug unit and check speakers with a multimeter to make sure they are not shorted.
Take off front panel (8 screws).
Remove power supply shield with yellow tape (2 screws).
Remove 2 screws holding top of power supply, loosen bottom screws.
Replace front and hold in place with a couple screws.
Turn unit around.
Remove screws holding heatsink (6 screws)
Open rear storage door.
Carefully pull amp section out, being careful of tightly routed wires. Note any connectors you disconnect.
The amplifier is the board on the top, the power supply is in the silver box.
Push the power supply forward and loose the black screws holding the amplifier board bracket closest to the heatsink.
Loosen the top brass screws holding bracket to heatsink and remove the bottom screws.
Remove all eight of the screws holding the transistor brackets & transistors to the heatsink. Look and take careful note of how the plastic insulators weave through the transistors. If you get this wrong, you can short out the whole amplifier when you turn it on.
Slide the amplifier board down and out where you can get to the bottom. Note the wires and connectors going to the small protect board over the amplifier.
Check the transistors with a multimeter to find the shorted ones. Remove and replace bad transistors. These are connected in pairs.
Reassemble in reverse. Be careful of reconnecting wires and insulators. Don't test until the amplifier PCB is back in place and you're sure of all wires. If the PCB is touching the power supply, you'll short it out.

Good luck, I told you this wouldn't be easy!

One or more of the power transistors are shorted. There are eight transistors in the amplifier section - 2 high & 2 low for each channel. This unit is difficult to open up to work on.

Unplug unit and check speakers with a multimeter to make sure they are not shorted.
Take off front panel (8 screws).
Remove power supply shield with yellow tape (2 screws).
Remove 2 screws holding top of power supply, loosen bottom screws.
Replace front and hold in place with a couple screws.
Turn unit around.
Remove screws holding heatsink (6 screws)
Open rear storage door.
Carefully pull amp section out, being careful of tightly routed wires. Note any connectors you disconnect.
The amplifier is the board on the top, the power supply is in the silver box.
Push the power supply forward and loose the black screws holding the amplifier board bracket closest to the heatsink.
Loosen the top brass screws holding bracket to heatsink and remove the bottom screws.
Remove all eight of the screws holding the transistor brackets & transistors to the heatsink. Look and take careful note of how the plastic insulators weave through the transistors. If you get this wrong, you can short out the whole amplifier when you turn it on.
Slide the amplifier board down and out where you can get to the bottom. Note the wires and connectors going to the small protect board over the amplifier.
Check the transistors with a multimeter to find the shorted ones. Remove and replace bad transistors. These are connected in pairs.
Reassemble in reverse. Be careful of reconnecting wires and insulators. Don't test until the amplifier PCB is back in place and you're sure of all wires. If the PCB is touching the power supply, you'll short it out.

Good luck, I told you this wouldn't be easy!

The speakers are 8 ohm (three 2 ohm in series in each cabinet).

You can connect them in parallel with others HOWEVER you cannot go below 4 ohms a side with your amp. This means you could use ONE other 8 ohm speaker in parallel with one of the passport speakers PER side.

Since the amp can vastly exceed the passport speaker rating you need to be careful to not overpower the passport speakers. One way to HELP regulate the level to the passport speakers is to use a LONG small gauge speaker cable on the passport speakers. Use a 50 foot 16 gauge speaker cable while using heavier, shorter cables on your mains.

With your Samson I would use mains rated at 300 Watts CONTINUOUS power, or at least maintain discipline in volume level to [revent speaker damage.

ALWAYS loop your speaker cables through handles of the enclosure to prevent them being pulled out during use which will destroy your amp... VERIFY the plugs are seated before pwering the system.

Yes, take it to a repair shop.

You have a failure either in the power supply or one of the power amps. There is likely to be burned component(s) that are not user serviceable.

These things are a bear to work on... Mine failed again and I dread having to work on it.

The protect monitors power supply current drain of the switcher and the power amp balance.

DO NOT USE IT till it is repaired. Continued use or fuse replacement will likely do additional damage.

I dont know that amp but try taking the fuse to Maplins{UK} or RS electronic store for a replacement..

Well I am NOT sure, but I wonder if that is all it WILL do? One Mic at a Time? As You would need an Internal Mixer, for ALL Mic's to work at once. What we used to do, back in the day, was to get a 4 Channel Mixer, and plug all Mic;s into that, then take the Output from that, and plug it into the Mic jack on the unit we were using, it is a work around,, but a good reliable one, We used to use a Mixer that had a level control too... this was of great benefit also

I have one that is doing the exact same thing. It's at a Fender
Authorized Service Center now. Hopefully dude can find the
problem. Fender says there is a 5 year warranty on it, so I
expect them to make good on their promise. Did you get
yours fixed?

Check that the PAN control is centered.

If there is a 120hz buzz then there is a ground loop between the computer and the passport. You need to get a ground isolator to go between the two. If the buzz is deeper the may be a audio ground off or the hum is comming from the power supply

The manual is here if you don't have one:http://www.fender.com/support/manuals/pdfs/manuals_elec/fenderaudio/PassportP250.pdf Have a look at page 9 and read the VIP Channel 1 only section. It will explain the solution to your problem and the settings to overcome it. Please let me know if this helps.

Make sure the PAN controls are set to center. If they are, the amp may have a failure. Hint: these systems are hard to work on due to the way they are assembled.

me too! i have the same problem did you ever find the answer??