20 Most Recent Turbo Air MSR-49NM Refrigerator Commercial Questions & Answers


Isn't 37 ok? Check the condenser is clear and clean before replacing thermostat

Turbo Air... | Answered on Apr 18, 2014


SK1A1C-L2W compressor is 1/3 HP, 134 A, 1300 BTU for freezer, 4000 on a refrigerator application.

Turbo Air... | Answered on Apr 18, 2014


This is popular problem with thermostat. Thermostat is the switch that should stop the compressor and evaporator fan when the required temperature reached. No the thermostat switch contacts are stuck on and leave the compressor and evaporator fan running continually. So to solve the problem you need to replace the thermostat. The thermostat is the exterior digital with temperature indication.

Turbo Air... | Answered on Apr 18, 2014


This unit uses a 1/2HP compressor. 12,000 BTU's to a horsepower, therefore it has 6,00 BTU's

Turbo Air... | Answered on Jan 14, 2014


Hello,

Sorry to hear your right door spring is not working properly any longer. I would be happy to help you locate the correct OEM door part you need we work with a few Refrigeration hardware suppliers on a regular basis and we are able to provide quotes for hardware below the list prices. Shoot us a call or email with your model and serial # and the part you are needing us to locate and we'll get pricing and availability for you. 1-855-288-2259 / [email protected]

- Cooler Gaskets Staff

Turbo Air... | Answered on Jan 02, 2014


There is a stile heater around the door opening and sounds like it shorted out. This would be the smell you noticed. The plastic door trim should have felt exceptionally warm to the touch

Turbo Air... | Answered on Aug 01, 2011


This problem can be corrected by adjusting the hinges.

Turbo Air... | Answered on May 09, 2009


If it is a freezer, it should reach at least 0 degrees before turning off. I sounds like a thermostat issue. I would look at that first since it is set on it's highest setting and not shutting down.
Thanks

Turbo Air... | Answered on May 22, 2020


Fridge/freezer freezing up-and no fanor air circulation:

first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.?

AT TIMES The fan usually stops workingAND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELLdue to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.

May also need to check thedefrost timer,The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator.Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.

u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engageurdefrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providingurterminator is not bad?

Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Placeurmeter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Takeurmeter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Nowur1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u knowurtimer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is theheating elementitself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check thecold control thermostatwith a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEMand THERMISTORSAt times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being putout. In most models around 1300( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmdsBkO46dk defrost therm.

Turbo Air... | Answered on Mar 12, 2020


call a local repair service

Turbo Air... | Answered on Mar 12, 2019

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