20 Most Recent Turbo Air MSR-49G-2 Commercial Refrigerator Questions & Answers

First of all, here is the main ONLINE SUPPORT page for your model:

http://www.turboairinc.com/MSR-49G-2-P56.aspx

And here is a direct link to the info sheet for that model:

http://www.turboairinc.com/Assets/docs/CutSheet/MSR-G.pdf


To view the Support Page or the info sheet just use your mouse to click on the link, which is the underlined and highlighted text just above. This will open a new web browser page automatically for you and allow you to view the information at the website indicated or the contents of the info sheet.

You may need ADOBE READER installed on your computer to read PDF documents.
You can download this free at WWW.ADOBE.COM if necessary.
Click on the DOWNLOAD ADOBE READER button on right side of the ADOBE home page when you get there.

If you want a copy of the Owner's Manual, you will have to fill in the online form and they will probably send you a copy. Here is the link to the online request form:

http://www.turboairinc.com/CatalogRequest.aspx

Most likely they will email a copy of it to you as an attachment to an email. Once you have it, you can save it somewhere on your computer and look at it anytime you like. It will likely also be in the PDF format, so you will need the ADOBE READER if you don't already have it.

Please comment back here to this page if you have any questions, have difficulty accessing the links, or just require further general assistance and I will respond as soon as I see it.

If this was at all helpful please click on the 4 Thumbs Up helpfulness rating icon you see on this page.

Thank you very much and good luck.

Joe.

yes it sounds like your defrost timer is set two 8 hous, possibly 12 but since it sounds like your hearing it twice during the day id bet 8
any way if its cycling and not leaking, and maintaining temp its normal as they say
next time take a listen if you hear it go into defrost, it should come back out in 20 +- 5

I think the best thing fir you to do is to call a technician to come check it out for you so you don’t worsen things

Clean the drain pipe.

Thermostat. An incorrectly adjusted thermostat can cause the freezer's compressor to start and kick off. ... The inside temperature of the freezer determines when the thermostat sends the signal to power the compressor. Set the thermostat to a lower setting to see if the compressor starts and then stays on.

If it is a freezer, it should reach at least 0 degrees before turning off. I sounds like a thermostat issue. I would look at that first since it is set on it's highest setting and not shutting down. Thanks

unplug unit noises like that is a short in the electrical as to cause need to open and examine and test

Fridge/freezer freezing up-and no fanor air circulation: first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.? AT TIMES The fan usually stops workingAND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELLdue to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check thedefrost timer,The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator.Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engageurdefrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providingurterminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Placeurmeter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Takeurmeter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Nowur1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u knowurtimer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is theheating elementitself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check thecold control thermostatwith a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEMand THERMISTORSAt times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being putout. In most models around 1300( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmdsBkO46dk defrost therm.

Could be blocked by ice formation. Leave switched off for a few hours with the door open to allow to defrost.

Yes everything get power from the board. Look for wiring diagram and trace wire out

drain is blocked

In generic terms, it is either the temperature controller or the sensor that reads the temp and sends that to the controller. Something is no telling the compressor to turn off.

sounds like start component issues. capacitors, relay, or connections.

this could be a bad temp sensor or lack of proper air flow. Make sure the evap fan runs when it's supposed to be running. Also make sure the evap is not freezing up. all these items can cause what you are describing.