Turbo Air 49 cu. ft. / 1388 liter Commercial Freezer MSF-49NM - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

no they us a thermostat to operate temprature

The compressor runs during defrost to supply hot gas to the inside coil

does the compressor ever stop running? If not, the trouble is in the controls. If it does, the temperature sensor is probably bad. Start there and let me know if I can be of further help.

Hi, Please set your thermostat a bit warm and observe the compressor. Also check your freezer for leaking.

Change the temperature control.

http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/freezer/repair/tempcontrol.php

Tried to find the code "CO" in service manual but to no avail and please furnish the proper model number as none you list appeal. You stated that the unit sat for 5 months so I am wondering if your unit has developed a restriction in the capillary tube as this unit uses R 134A which has this problem.

get a sheppards hook a parts store can help you tell them your prob

http://www.turboairinc.com/TB-Service/Service%20Manual%20%20-%20April%202008/TSF-49SD.pdf

go to this site and check out the service manual. I guessed at the unit you had as you did not include the model number.
You can also go to turboairinc.com and search for more info if you need to.

Hope this gets you your answer.

here you go: http://www.turboairinc.com/TB-Service/Service%20Manual%20%20-%20April%202008/MSF-23NM.MSF-49NM.MSR-23NM.MSR-49NM.MSR-23G-1.MSR-49G-2.pdf
takes alillte to load so be patient
hope this was helpful

http://www.turboairinc.com/TB-Service/Service%20Manual%20%20-%20April%202008/TSF-49SD.pdf
This is the web site for your manual for your unit. I've had some situations where some rubber type insulation has melted but I've not experienced any problem other than it makes a mess. Hope this helps.

http://www.turboairinc.com/TB-Service/Service.html#SOLID_DOOR_REACH-IN
Since I do not have the exact model number, here is the site you need to visit to get the manual. Hope this is what you are looking for.

If the fans your talking about are in the refrigeration section, then the unit is not in defrost. The interior fans shut off during the defrost cycle.
There is a condenser fan motor in the machine section by the compressor. If it fails, the problem you described can occur.
If that fan motor is still, and the compressor is cool to the touch, then no power is getting to the refrigeration section.
Could be a bad thermostat, or the unit has tripped off on the high pressure safety switch. The high pressure switch can be one of 2 styles. Auto reset, which means it will try to restart the compressor when the pressures become normal. The other has a lock out feature that requires it be reset manually. If it goes out on the high pressure switch, once reset, check the condenser fan motor to make sure it is running and/or excessive dirt in the condenser, which must be blown out.
Other causes can be a total loss of refrigerant, or a compressor that won't run.
Short of a broken wire all items listed except for a dirty condensor and reset of the high pressure switch, require a decent knowledge of electrical, Knowledge in the use of a VOM meter and amp-probe, as well as a set of refrigeration gauges.

If it's frosted up, it's best to defrost manually with heat gun. Find the timer and advance until it goes back into defrost. The timer looks like a residential fridge. It cut the compressor off and the heaters on.
Please rate solution

My next question is, you say you have to call a tech to come out. Is he doing something? And if so, what? With the limited info I have at this time, it sounds like there may be a refrigerant problem. Let me know so we can continue. Am looking forward to resolving this.

sound like a bad start capacitor,if you have a capactance check on your multimeter,you can find the readings on the side of the cap.I always replace the relay,overload and capacitor at the same time. this usually keeps me from coming back and having to replace another part in a short amount of time. Also check and make sure your condensor coil is clean , let me know if you need more help

I deal with MasterBilt which is a private lable made by TurboAir.
I have several units but only one does this icing up thing. Look for a bad seal on the door gasket. These really ice up if that does not seal almost perfectly. Look for premature termination of the defrost cycle. Check that the heater is pulling amps. The wiring diagram at "turboairinc.com" is very poor but it shows 2 heaters for the refrigerator. They list a diagram for the freezer but it's not there. I know for sure that there is a heater for the evap but don't know about the drain. I've seen some have it and some don't. there tech support line has much to be desired but it's worth a shot. Also, the bottom hinge on the door fails fairly regularly. This allows the door to drop just enought to disengage the switch at the top of the door and stop the evap fan from running, thus causing a freeze up.
Good Luck . You got your hands full with this one.

There is a good chance, if the defrost timer is mechanical, that you can rotate (nudge) the timer to see if it get's going.

Most commercial refrigeration does not use a defrost thermostat, and a lot of it does not use a heater (they use a hot gas bypass valve and pump hot gas through the evaporator, rather than through the condensor.).

Let me know if you need further help.

It sounds to me very likely that your thermostat isn't functioning properly. change the settings and wait to see if it responds. If the thermostat is working it should shut down the compressor when you increase (rise) the temperature and aversly start it when you drop the temperature. Always let the unit sit for 3 minutes for the pressure inside to equalize before restarting. Good Luck

could be a freon leak check condensor lines were you see the oil if lines have oil on them then it is leaking slowly and you need system work

Since there is no mention of the refrigerant, and some models are now using R-290 (propane), it's hard to tell what these pressures represent. My suggestion is to remove the refrigerant and weigh in the exact amount the manufacturer requires. This eliminates alot of guess work and is usually the best place to start.