Whirlpool Cabrio 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super Capacity Plus 7-Cycle Gas Dryer - White - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Sound like you need to replace the heating element. If you are in the market for an Dryer Vent cleaning check out Dryer Vent Cleaning Dallas Tx.

press the cycle sensor button for 3 seconds.. that resets it

If you can hear the dryer motor running it is most likely a broken belt or idler.

Disconnect power for 30 sec. reapply power and observe for 1 minuteif code still appears replace control board (erc clock)

Not a major appliance expert--but if the situation is as described with hot air out vent but not in the drum where the clothing is it seems to me you have a blockage between the drum and lint filter to where it reaches the vent tube---they do make long flexible brushes for this-----a suggestion: if you have a compressor try forcing air down from the lint filter with the vent tube removed to see if the blockage is there and will clear or not.A blockage can be a fire hazard so if you do not find it have a tech out.

Can you spin the drum freely by hand?

An EXTREMELY helpful technical guide is folded inside the console housing. WARNING: It is for appliance techs, DO NOT do the voltage/resistance checks if you are not well-versed in troubleshooting appliances! BUT, it does include putting the dryer in diagnostics mode and checking the sensors.Post back any error codes you may get.

Hi,

If your dryer is not drying like it once did or if you just have nottaken the time to give yourself a clean dryer in a long time then youneed to do that. At least once a year the dryer cleaning should takeplace. Lint build up in the dryer duct is one of the main causesfor your dryer to fail.

Here is the rest of this tip about DryerMaintenance

heatman101

Hello & Welcome to FixYa
If you have already tried cleaning the vent then the problem is with the Thermal fuse. When the thermal fuse goes bad it cannot be reset and replacing it is recommended repair. It is located on the blower wheel housing inside the rear panel to the exhaust duct. You can test it for continuity before replacing.Please get back to me if you have any other questions.
Kevin

Hi,

Here is a tips that I wrote that will help to explain why you get the PF Error Code

PF Error Code for Appliances

heatman101

On this dryer each of the seven automatic cycles listed on your machine perform different functions based on fabrics, load size or variables. In essence the first four settings (Heavy Duty to Delicate) relate to your desired drying temperatures of high, medium, low or extra-low respectively. The moisture level of the load is determined by the dryer's sensor system and the machine will set the drying time to an optimal level.

Whirlpool added a WRINKLE FREE feature or what one might describe as an extended intermittent tumbling time. This added cycle helps reduce wrinkling when you may not be able to unload the dryer immediately after the end of the cycle when the buzzer goes off. Starting this setting is a simple one button operation at the control panel. TheWrinkle Shield™ Plus Feature is preset to on during the permanent press cycle.

check the heater maynot be working

This is an indication of a door latch failure and/or interconnecting wiring problem. The first step in troubleshooting the problem is to unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main "brain" of your washing machine. Sometimes these error codes are erroneous and can be easily cleared by resetting the CCU. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, then you have a genuine problem. In addition, if the door latch remains locked following this procedure, there is a manual release you can use to open the door. Follow these steps:

1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with a 2 x 4, it makes access to the screws much easier.
2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose.
3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located.
4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.

If you still have the error code displayed, inspect the door latch mechanism for any broken, loose, or missing components. Next, open the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws in the rear of the washer that hold the panel in place. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then off. Locate the door latch on the right hand side behind the front panel. Inspect the wiring harness from the door latch to the to CCU. The CCU is located directly behind the wash tub in the top rear of the washer. Make sure all the connectors are snug and not loose or broken. In the majority of cases, a persistent error is a failed door latch. If all these preliminary checks are unsuccessful, replace the door latch. Follow these steps:

1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.


NOTE: Another method is to access behind the front panel from the top with the top panel removed. Either method works, but I have found that going through the front offers better access.


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Clean all lint out of the exhaust vents tubes You will be surprised to see it work again
A moister sensor detects lint build up and shuts the heat off or nearly off at all times

Heating element is out.

have you replaced the cycling switch on the unit?

Thermostat controls heat. There is also a motor centrifugal switch, in the element circuit, that the motor closes to insure the motor is turning. Try another heat setting. There is more than one thermostat. You may have blown the 'thermal fuse' too, which requires replacement.
It is possible that your element has failed also.

Tripped high limit. Must clean the lint filter and the exhaust vent tube and all the way in to the dryer. Hot air exit is restricted.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

Hi Terry,

AF flashes if a restricted airflow condition exists. Check to make sure the lint screen is clean, the door seal is in place and the vent is not
obstructed.
I suspect it's the vent connecting the dryer to the wall or the vent pipe in the wall to the outside. Without moving your dryer, look behind it to see if the flex duct is crushed or pinched. If it is, it's pinching off your air flow, too. Pull the dryer out straighten or replace the hose (you can get vent hose at Home Depot, Lowes or Ace Hardware) then slide the dryer back being careful to keep it about 8" from the wall (8" is the recommended distance from the back of the dryer to the wall, btw).
If the flex vent is NOT pinched off, then you should call a chimney sweep to come out and clean the vent pipe that's in the wall.

*Note---> If you want to test this diagnosis to verify it, just disconnect the flex hose from the wall and run a load of clothes. The error code should not reappear.

SG

Replace the radiant sensor

There are about seven different possiblities and the prospective solution in each case appears to be replacement of a different part! I suppose if you have the proper testing equipment for assessing each of those parts, you might be favored with a relatively inexpensive fix. I would be embarassed to suggest you replace all in sequence until the dryer works. Thermal Fuse: The thermal fuse is a safety mechanism that prevents the dryer from overheating. If it blows, the dryer won't heat. Check if the thermal fuse is intact and replace it if necessary. Cycling Thermostat: The cycling thermostat regulates the temperature inside the dryer drum. If it's faulty, the dryer may not heat properly. Consider checking and replacing the cycling thermostat. Igniter: The igniter is responsible for lighting the gas burner. If it's defective, the dryer won't ignite. Inspect the igniter for any signs of damage or malfunction. Gas Valve Coils: Although you've already replaced them, double-check the gas valve coils. Sometimes, even new parts can fail. Ensure they are securely connected and functioning correctly. Ventilation: Poor ventilation can lead to longer drying times and affect ignition. Make sure the dryer vent is clean and not obstructed. A clogged vent can cause overheating and affect ignition. Door Switch: The door switch ensures the dryer doesn't operate when the door is open. If it's faulty, the dryer won't start or heat. Verify that the door switch is functioning properly. Timer and Controls: Check if the timer advances correctly during the drying cycle. Malfunctioning controls can impact ignition. Inspect the timer and control board for any issues. Whirlpool Dryer WGD4800XQ1 - OEM Parts & Repair Help - PartSelect.com