20 Most Recent Frigidaire 14.7 Cu. Ft. Top-Mount Refrigerator - White - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The filter supplied by the manufacturer.

The wiresignal arm is located above the cube bin.

Hi Jimmy, thank you for your inquiry!

From my understanding the water filter inside of your Frigidaire refrigerator is freezing. The freezing could be caused due to the internal temperature inside of your refrigerator being too low. To unfreeze your filter you can perform a defrost cycle on your refrigerator or turn up the internal temperature. If that does not work to correct your issue it may be a problem within the filter and you may need to replace the filter. Hopefully this is helpful. -Matt

Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation: first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice. AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section. u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area! THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmdsBkO46dk defrost therm. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SJN8oaA2XE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buX9KcZo2c0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXT7pZyk_o https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me. Fridge FAN CONTINUALLY STAYS ON OR SHUTS OFF WHEN DOOR IS OPENED: NORMALLY WHEN THIS HAPPENS U EITHER HAVE A DOOR CONTINUALLY OPEN ISSUE OR A BAD DOOR SEAL LETTING AIR IN AND CAUSING FAN TO OVERWORK ITSELF. ANOTHER CAUSE CAN BE DIRTY COILS AND CONDENSER AND LASTLY NOT TO COMMON IS A SHORT IN THE FAN SYSTEM ITSELF. A MORE PROBABLE CAUSE COULD BE BAD THERMISTORS OR EVEN COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT ( WHEN THE THERMISTORS OR THERMOSTAT DO NOT GET/GIVE A PROPER READING, THEY CAN CAUSE THE FAN TO CONTINUE TO OPERATE AS THEY FAIL TO RECOGNIZE OR REGULATE THE PROPER TEMPERATURE. http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html

Ice Maker Is Frozen Up This ice maker repair is even easier. If your ice maker has frozen up, take the following steps to thaw it out: 1Unplug the refrigerator.Remove the ice bin from the refrigerator and remove any loose ice from the ice maker. 2Find the fill tube.This is awhite rubber-like hose that delivers water to the ice maker. Pull down the small metal clip off the housing that holds the fill tube (though not all ice makers have this clip). 3Warm the hoseand surrounding mechanism. To do this, you can train a hair dryer on the ice maker to melt any ice blocking the mechanism. But be very careful (sop up any dripping water with a rag) as electricity and water can present a serious risk of electrical shock. Also, be careful not to melt the plastic parts. 4If you don't want to use a hair dryer,you can soak the supply tubing with hot water, using a turkey baster and catching the overflow in the empty ice maker bin. In some cases, it may be easier to remove the ice maker than to thaw out the fill tube. On heat release ice makers You will want to check the heating element within the ice maker for continuity and a visual inspection of the board and conductors for burns and seizing, chared marks.How to Test the Ice Mold Heater There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. It is easier to work on this type of unit by first removing the entireicemakerfrom the freezer compartment. The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so. Along the edge nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate . The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker. Test the heater for resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each of the two terminals (or wires). The reading should be in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. If you get a significantly different reading, such as zero or infinity, then the mold heater is bad and needs to be replaced. Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the moldheaterfor resistance using amultitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multitester should read in the range of 60 to 90 ohms. Also be sure to check and test water valve with a meter for continuity and voltage..( a full 120 and nothing less) And a visual inspection for any ice build up or blockage in tubing and flow line. Remember u may get a close circuit reading of continuity however it may still be bad in that it may remain constantly closed and water keeps flowing more than suppose to. Hence chunks of ice build up. : God is the reason I give you free advice so God is good! http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html

The defrost drain is clogged or the icemaker drain line is frozen

Hey friend, thank you for your inquiry!

Based off the information you have provided your Frigidaire refrigerator is displaying "5Y CE". I have researched that code and believe it is an error code of "SY CE" which means a communication error after power up. I would recommend resetting your refrigerator and you can do that by disconnecting power from your appliance for ten minutes.

If that does not help correct the issue it could be a faulty main control board or user interface board. I would consult with a technician to come out and provide an accurate diagnosis. I hope this information is helpful. -Matt

Unplug and get a pair of needle nose pliers..grab metal end of bulb and remove..

Check the temperture and make the freezer and fridge in the middle setting...wait 24 hours and see if that helps.

English only on Fixya Hi, I need to change the timer on a frigidaire part 134803600, but I don't know how to remove the knob. Any suggestions, thanks. https://translate.google.ca/?sl=en&tl=es&text=Videos%20are%20in%20this%20link&op=translate Videos https://www.google.com/search?q=frigidaire+replace+timer+134803600 ..

CALL YOUR LOCAL REPAIR SERVICE IT NEEDS TESTED WHICH WE CAN NOT DO

sad to tell you but only a local repair service will be able to figure it out for you

neither you or we can add the needed gas so call a repair service

It is a warning that the fridge thinks the defrost heater is bad Frigidaire side by side Model Ffhs2622msu Flashing H on the... H means that the refrigerator thinks the heater is bad. You'll need to pull everything out of the freezer and remove the back panel inside the freezer. You'll see the silver evaporator coils with the evaporator fan above it. Apr. 14, 2020

What does flashing h mean on Frigidaire refrigerator?

you turn the power off or unplug it replace the gasket if you can find one then repower the unit

repair forums do not sell anything

then call a repair service we just had to buy a new compressor for our 2 yr old AMANA takes special equipment to change them out

Ice buildup probably has switch inoperable, sounds as if your automatic defrost circuit is bad. This is most likely caused by bad defrost timer, defrost heater, or defrost thermostat. Google your model number and many of the parts places have videos to show you how to change as well as sell you the parts at very reasonable price.

possible low on freon

Typically this is a customer alert warning - could be high temperature or open/ajar door or something else. Consult the owner's manual (can often be downloaded from factory website with model) and check the troubleshooting guide near the rear of that manual. With no model number there is no more specific answer.