Whirlpool 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding Gas Range - White-on-White - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Iquitous, we're sorry to learn of your Oven concerns. We would like to discuss this further with you. Please email us at [email protected] at your earliest convenience with your name, address, a phone number and best time to reach you along with your model and serial number.

are you sure about that being the reason. I would check the infinite switch's Surface burners are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter. You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals. On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. The infinite switch on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch. 1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful. 2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires. 3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective. 4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2". 5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced. 6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance. 7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed. If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. ) Most modern ovens use an electronic control board to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced. ELECTRIC OVENS: CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

If your sure the ignitor is good then check the gas safety valve I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/howard_977676954994c5b2

1.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board. 2. 3.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating. If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse. THINGS TO CHECK: the broil element is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage. If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The bake element is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off. Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter. I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little: If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem. Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake? When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it. Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it. On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat. Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings. Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard. When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps. First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring. Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element. Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity. Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be. To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.

Oven clicks as if it is relighting almost constantly. · Old electric range ovens use a coil heating element called a resistive coil. This is nothing more than an electrical wire encased in a sheath. They have flat black coils over rounded burner drip bowls that catch your drips and spills. · The newer glass-ceramic cook top style element produces heat that radiates through the glass top to the cookware above. · Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop. · Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system. GAS OVENS 1)The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper). 2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit). 3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet). spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module. Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger. If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter. There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well. ELECTRIC OVENS: CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

It's best to remove the racks. However you can go on line to download a free manual.

try unpluging the electrical cord. that sometimes work.

Igniters are fairly easy to replace, it will be on the oven burner tube. there are a couple screws that hold it on. Most have a connector that unclips and just clip the new one together. If the connectors are different then you will have to remove the connector if equipped and strip about a half inch off the wires from the igniter and the wires cut from the old igniter and use the supplied wire nuts. A tip spray a small amount of WD40 on the screws that hold the igniter in place. Sometimes they will strip otherwise. It will burn off in a few minutes after turning the oven on.

Common problem Whirlpool has changed to an upgraded ignition wire harness don't know the age of unit might be beneficial to also replace the igniter.

Easy, go to the garage and get the tool kit. Inside is a device called a hammer. Take the device in your right hand if you are right handed, lift in a backward fashion and thrust forward against the glass cover. Now it will come off.

The whirlpool code is that a key button is shorted/stuck. Say's to replace keypad.

Unplug the oven. Take a potato and cut it in half. Jam it into the socket as far as you can. Now unscrew the broken socket by turning it counter-clockwise. The potato will form to the inside of the socket and twist it out.

power down at the breaker or unplug the oven,then if possible you can remove the lamp cover and shell from the rear oven wall,then most lamp bases have spade terminal connections unplug these remove the whole lamp base with the broken lamp,remove the broken bulb base,then check the center power tab inside the lamp base to make sure it isn't flattened out too much,otherwise carefully bend it upwards to make sure it makes contact with the bulbs base then re-insert the terminal connections and new bulb into the opening at the rear of oven,then replace the bulb,but,do not over tighten new bulb as this leads to non operation due to heating

No reset for the control panel... you can try a hard reset ( remove power by triping the breaker for 1 min ) most like you have a safety thermo thats blown or a bad control... I can help you find them if you want to take it apart

You have a stuck or shorted keypad. Try Cancel/Off and hold for 10 seconds. Then push every key several times to unstick. If that does not work unplug range and remove the access panel, disconnect the wire connections, then replace them. If all these steps fail replace the control. good luck

Most Whirlpool model numbers start with two or three letters and have another two letters later in the number. W10198615D may be your serial number or a Lowe's product number, not the Whirlpool model number. Usually though the model number and serial number aren't on the back of the stove. The plaque with this data is on the rim of the oven behind the warming or storage drawer. The manuals that are available are here: https://www.whirlpool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/OCManualsLiteratureSearchView?catalogId=10561&langId=-1&storeId=10211&krypto=5QgxQhneFliXuEuX564wSQ%3D%3D&ddkey=http:OCManualsLiteratureSearchView . Please recheck your model number and post a comment with the correct model number. I'll be glad to try to get the correct manual for you. I wish that I could be of more help right now. Cindy Wells

Hi you should see two small hinges on the oven one on the left and one on the right take the door and sett it on the two but leaving it on a angle towards you when they start to go into the door push down on the door towards the floor still holding it on a angle towards you the door should be out about 12 " when you do this once you have pushed the door down till it stops you should be all set

Jeff Hi where are you located ? that almost sounds like a stove from over seas ?I can't understand why you would have a plug like this on a GAS type stove ? give me some more infomation

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

Press & Hold the START PAD for 20 seconds to turn off LOC error. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin