20 Most Recent Whirlpool 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding Electric Range - White-on-White - Page 3 Questions & Answers

On my stove the, a few years old, I had two problems.. "F1" - which showed after a minute of power. The clock didn't work but manual element and oven controls would. Basically the circuit board would not switch to 'digital'. After I checked the board components and seeing none were burned- I resoldered all the components except the chips( to rule out a 'cold' joint and replaced the largest capacitor near the display with a new capacitor of the same value but a higher voltage. PROBLEM SOLVED, F5-E1 was supposed to be a problem with the door lock when self cleaning is used. I checked and cleaned the latch circuit from the door at the same time as the timer board was checked... all troubles had cleared. I never had the "P1" display you speak of. Cold solder joints and worn out or degraded value capacitors from the heat have been a large majority of the issues I've seen to date when obvious burned circuits or relays are not the issue.

the broil element is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage. If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.

The control thinks thinks the heating circuit is open was the oven in use when power went out possible one of the leads may have come off or burned off one of the elements I have seen outages damage a lot of controls with oven off try cancel/off, cancel/off then start to go into diagnostic press the 3 or ^ key till you get to errors follow the prompt to reset this my help

that's normal. The top element is meant for broiling only while the bottom one is meant for baking.

I think that is not a defect. I believe this is ("LO") a view lowest set temperature to keep food warm until it is ready to serve, as you can see in the table below. Dado

Sounds like a bad spring/s. Go to YouTube and search for oven door hinge. It's a fairly simple fix.

clean it with wd40

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repairtips/repairtips_appliance+fault+codes.aspx#Whirlpool Range / Stove / Oven Fault Codes this website gives the problem code what it means and the soulution It may help you

An electric clock? Unplug it.......

The SteamClean option spot cleans the oven in 20 minutes and is recommended for cleaning light spills on the bottom of the oven cavity. When used routinely, the SteamClean option reduces the need for frequent self-clean cycle use. To use the SteamClean option, pour 12 ounces (1 1/2 cup) of water into the bottom of the oven cavity, close the oven door and push the SteamClean button. At the end of the cycle, consumers wipe out the bottom of the oven, easily removing oven soils. The steam cleaning option is eco-friendly and does not require frequent use of the self-clean cycle, which can create a strong odor. Read this in a post about the new whirlpool ranges

Most units have to have the temp/time cycle set before you press start.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%203169015.pdf Check out the above link

Is it not at the rear of the cooker or inside door edge ?

Can be awkward but open the door fully, on the hinges there should be a small sliding clip, slide forward to lock hinges and lift door from close to oven.

Hi,

Here is a tips that I wrote that will help to explain why you get the PF Error Code

PF Error Code for Appliances

heatman101

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Any error codes? Did it ever work? Does the oven door close properly?

They should be accessable form the front and you shouldbe able to pull the wires out from the front and unclip the connector. If it doesn't come out from the front then you will have to get to the wires from the back. Sometimes you may have to cut the wires and use ceramic wire nuts to connect them.

Most require 2 screws to be removed to lift the glass cover from over the bulb. Then simply unscrew the bulb and insert new bulb. A 1/4" nut driver is the best tool for the job.