Dometic RM2852 Refrigerator - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The dometic recall requires the installation of a thermal fuse from the DC terminal block to the igniter,  Originally it was a solid wire connection, and the recall replaced this wire with a thermal fuse imbedded.  On my unit the installer placed the fused wire too close to the burner sheet metal and, viola, the fuse blew (being thermal).  Camping World found the problem in 5 minutes and repaired it in another 10 minutes. $107.00. 

I have the same problem Have replaced the power Modular still Refrig light or anything styill doesn't work. Anyone have any suggestions?

A simple GOOGLE search turned up a service tips manual on this model. It was only the 3rd item in the GOOGLE list! http://jular.ca/nv/data/pdf/26121_2852SM.PDF You should first disconnect the electric power, otherwise your readings will be messed up. Then get an ohmmeter and first check all the fuses. Then you can check the other things in that manual.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/operating/2652operation.pdf http://www.dometic.com/QBank/EPiServer/Dometic/US/Manuals/RV-manuals/Refrigerators/Americana-Americana-Plus-service-manual_17606.pdf

Sounds like a blown fuse or circuit to refrigerator is dead. RM2852 Service Manual Appliance 911 Sea Breeze

Check your fuses and circuit breakers to see if any are tripped or blown. If you are handy with a test meter you can check for power at the refrigerator control panel. There will be a vented cover outside behind your fridge and there are two leads going to a heating element. You can check for power or continuity through the element.

It seems like a gas pressure problem. Possible blockage or kinked pipe or faulty regulator on the gas bottle. If the fridge runs ok only when you use the gas hot water, that would change the gas flow / pressure. LP gas products are normally around 1.5 to 2.75 kpa pressure. If you have access to a manometer, the gas pressure can be checked. (NB/ You should hold a gas service licence to do this)

Is it still working? If you can smell ammonia, I would say that there is a very small leak. Over time, the fridge will lose its efficiency and take longer and longer to cool down. Eventually, it wont cool at all once all the gas has escaped. From what I remember of Dometic fridges, is that they used to supply exchange refrigeration units. You remove the entire refrigeration system and swap it for a new or rebuilt system. It worked out a lot cheaper than buying a new fridge.

I assume you mean the hinge that is on the cabinet and not the door? If its the door part that has failed, you will need to get a new door. If its the cabinet hinge, some of these are screwed onto the cabinet from underneath the fridge. Others however, are mounted inside the cabinet and are not really designed for replacement. Ive fixed a few over the years on different brands where the plastic hinge has broken but it can be a bit messy. The cabinet needs to be carefully peeled or bent back on the bottom corner of the fridge to access where the hinge is mounted. Unscrew the hinge and if you are lucky, the Manufacturer has these as a spare part. If not, the only way is to go to a hardware or cabinet parts store to try and source something that will suffice. Do NOT be tempted to put a normal gate or door hinge onto the fridge door and screw it onto the cabinet. Inside the cabinet especially around the edges are whats called "mullion heater" pipes or in older fridges, mullion elements. If you screw through a pipe, you will lose the gas and fridge will be shot. If you screw through an electrical mullion heater, there is a danger of electrocution.

May have a defrost setting that is not adjusted correctly.

Any sign of yellow residue on the rear of an RV Fridge means that you require a replacement cooling unit. It is something that can be done by most RV owners. Ive attached a video that will walk you through the install of your cooling unit. The video is by ArctiCold Refrigeration We keep it cold The cooling unit can be purchased aftermarket at Arcticold's online store. www.arcticoldstore.com Store

Only to ignite on propane. ArctiCold Refrigeration We keep it cold

This video should help you! please visit www.arcticoldstore.com if you require a replacement cooling unit. ArctiCold Refrigeration We keep it cold

want cool on gas ???/ elec ???? 12volt ????

If the igniter continues to click, that means that the control board is not sensing the flame through the igniter. You need to clean the igniter tip to make sure that there is not a build up of soot or corrosion. The tip of the igniter should be approximately 1/8" from the flame tube. The only way to determine "sufficient" gas flow would be to perform a manometer test to ensure that you have 10" - 14" water column. I would start with cleaning and adjusting the igniter so that it will not continue to try to ignite. If that does not stop the igniter from striking then you will need to replace the igniter. If it continues after you install a new igniter then you are more than likely experiencing board failure.

Please clarify your question. If there is no power to the thermo disc nothing will work. Both gas and electric require 12v power to work.

Not real sure what could be banging and clanging as there aren't really any moving parts. There have been some reports of gurgling sounds coming from the cooling unit and also water pipes 'hammering' when the pump is on.

Sounds like the thermistor is bad. Several ways to test.

1: Place the end of the thermistor that is located inside the refrigerator into a glass of slushy water and read the ohms resistance on the plug end which is located on the back of the refrigerator. Google the ohms resistance chart for Dometic thermistors and compare your readings to the chart. If they are not in range then the thermistor is bad and needs to be replaced.

2: Unplug the thermistor from the circuit board. It will be the harness that has only two wires going into a hard plastic plug. Leave it unplugged for 24 hours and check the temp inside the refrigerator. If the temp has dropped then the thermistor is bad and needs to be replaced.

To replace the thermistor remove the thermistor sensor end from the plastic clip. Remove the plastic grommet from the back wall of the refrigerator. Tape the new plug end to the sensor head of the old thermistor and gently guide it through the hole. Once the taped head/plug passes through the hole you may complete pulling the new thermistor through from the back side. Only pull enough to allow you to plug the new thermistor in. Un-tape the plug end from the head and plug the thermistor in to the circuit board. Reinstall the cover over the circuit board and reinstall the access pane. There will be some sealing putty on the old thermistor harness. Remove that and gently press it back into the hole around the new thermistor harness inside the refrigerator and reinstall the plastic grommet. Install the sensor end into the plastic clip and install the plastic clip between the first and second fins. The higher up on the fin the colder the temp will be inside the refrigerator.

Sounds like the thermistor is bad. Several ways to test. 1: Place the end of the thermistor that is located inside the refrigerator into a glass of slushy water and read the ohms resistance on the plug end which is located on the back of the refrigerator. Compare your readings to the chart. If they are not in range then the thermistor is bad and needs to be replaced. 2: Unplug the thermistor from the circuit board. It will be the harness that has only two wires going into a hard plastic plug. Leave it unplugged for 24 hours and check the temp inside the refrigerator. If the temp has dropped then the thermistor is bad and needs to be replaced. To replace the thermistor remove the thermistor sensor end from the plastic clip. Remove the plastic grommet from the back wall of the refrigerator. Tape the new plug end to the sensor head of the old thermistor and gently guide it through the hole. Once the taped head/plug passes through the hole you may complete pulling the new thermistor through from the back side. Only pull enough to allow you to plug the new thermistor in. Un-tape the plug end from the head and plug the thermistor in to the circuit board. Reinstall the cover over the circuit board and reinstall the access pane. There will be some sealing putty on the old thermistor harness. Remove that and gently press it back into the hole around the new thermistor harness inside the refrigerator and reinstall the plastic grommet. Install the sensor end into the plastic clip and install the plastic clip between the first and second fins. The higher up on the fin the colder the temp will be inside the refrigerator.

You need to unplug the heating element from the circuit board and using a digital multi meter check the ohms. You should read approximately 44 ohms +/- 10%. If it is out of range change the heating element.