20 Most Recent Kenmore Top Freezer Refrigerator - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Refrigerant leak. Check for leak ans re-gas.

Some ge fridges have a control board on back that works fan. Also some go through the bi-metal on the defrost, but that's mainly older side by sides and bottom mounts

seal on door must be letting moisture into compartment, need new door seal

The first thing you want to do is open the freezer and see if the fan inside there is running. The reason is the freezer cools the refrigerator side by circulating air from the freezer. If the fan is running then your problem is one or more parts of the defrost system is malfunctioned and in return your problem arises. There are three parts to the system, the defrost timer or in some cases control board, defrost thermostat also known as a bi-metal, and the defrost heater. The defrost system is set up to operate as so. The defrost timer or control board will turn the machine off, in some cases every 8 hours, some 12. During this time period the defrost heaters, located behind the freezer wall and rest underneath the evaporator, yet wires to them run up the side of it, are energized and emit heat that raises upward to melt the ice that has formed on the evaporator coils. The bi-metal or defrost thermostat is at the top of the evaporator. When the heat from the heater starts to reach the bi-metal, it breaks the circuit turning the heater off. The whole purpose of this is because the freezer cool the refridgerator side by drawing air across the coils and blowing to the other side via the evap fan motor. In my opinion, if you change one part of the defrost system change them all because usually when one part fails another will follow, so save yourself the time and the food loss, the cost difference is minute. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Just sounds like the sound of the fan circulating the air inside the freezer compartment.

Capacitor if capacitor start, sticky relay or faulty compressor if not.

Note that the temperature in the freezer must be below 10 degrees F for the icemaker to cycle. The icemaker line is the smaller line (1/4") located in the back of the machine that runs from the valve to the filll tube. To test the valve and icemaker you have to manually advance the ice maker and wait for it to call for water with the 1/4" line disconnected from the valve. You can do this by getting a jumper wire, removing the cover of icemaker, which you jsut grab and pull off, and using the jumper wire insert one end of the wire into the cirle marked "M" and the other in the cicle marked "N". Leave there until you hear a click and sometimes see a little spark behind the modular head wheel. Also if you see ice in the maker that hasn't dumper and the teeth of the icemaker are facing any direction other than two o clock position, the icemaker is bad. Before doing any of the above though check the fill tube to be sure the no ice is blocking water from coming in. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

hi, if you can access rear of freezer temporarily unplug for safety then feel the black grill on rear is this also warm? and the compressor at bottom (smallish round/oval cannister) of freezer is this also warm? if so then it probably needs re-gassing, a qualified engineer is required for this, phone around for best price as the range in cost is immense, some can charge 40-80 pounds where some wil ask for twice that ammount.

you now have a defrost issue,remove rear panel inside freezer if the evaporator is covered with a heavy ice and frost build-up then either the defrost heater under the evaporator coil is open or the defrost thermostat on top of the coil is bad you need to check both for continuity or the defrost timer if equipped or the A.D.C. adaptive defrost control is bad and not supplying power to the defrost circuit