20 Most Recent Frigidaire FWT449 Questions & Answers

Hello friend, that's a great question!

I have researched your Frigidaire model, FWT499GF, and located the height of your appliance is 36 inches and the width is 26 and 3/4 inches. I hope this information is helpful to you. I did not see a model that would be a replacement in regards to your current washer. You can reach out to the manufacture or manufacture website for any further assistance with locating a new model.

I see that you stated your washer is buzzing and will not agitate. That could be an issue within your motor or control panel I would recommend seeking assistance from a professional to properly diagnose your washer. -Matt

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

The problem is with the control board that is bad and needs replacement as you have already checked everything else and even the pump & motor is fine. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Hi,

Did he check out all of the simple stuff first???

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

As the unit wont fill so that's the reason that it wont spin, water inlet valve is the first thing that is recommended to be checked. You can unplug the washer and then check the water inlet valve, for this the top of washer should be removed and then check the place where the water line connects to the washer. You can take out the screws that secure the water valve to the unit, if cleaning this wont help then replacing the water valve is recommended repair. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description "My front load washer has a load clunk when the drum is spinning. If I spin it by hand I can still hear it. I took the back off and it sounds like coming from inside the drum" my first suspicion would be a worn tub bearing, unfortunately all too common with those Frigidaire.

The tub bearing is likely worn, or the inner tub has broken apart.

You can check this by way of opening the door and grabbing the inner basket rim and moving up and down to feel for play...there should be zero play or zero tolerance in this bearing.

Second, since you`ve removed the back panel, grab the large pulley and try and move it back and forth or spin it with the belt off to listen for a grinding noise.

If it is indeed worn it will require practically the complete tub assembly ( rear wall with bearing and inner basket )...that is the least expensive and easiest fix at around $400 for the entire assembly.

example...


You can opt to change just the rear wall and bearing with the basket in separate pieces, but it comes in around $370 and still leaves you with pulling the old one apart to re-use the front shell.

Either way this is a fairly involved repair and even for an experienced tech like myself can take 60 - 90mins.

Let me know what you find and I'll do what I can to assist you.

Good luck. Thank you for choosing FixYa.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

clean the filter and or the pump.to drain lift hose out of outlet pipe and lower into a bowl

To decide on the bearing just listen to when you hear the noise. Is it when the unit is draining then its the drain pump. And if its making a bad noise that gets louder and louder as the drum spins till you cant hear yourself think your bearing has gone bad. Check your owners manual because unfortunatley the only way to replace the rear bearing is to replace the rear half of the tub. The bearing is mounted into the rear tub and cant be replaced otherwise. Sometimes the tub is covered for longer than the original 1 year warranty. Hope this helps.

• Test the lid switch
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission
• Inspect the agitator
• Inspect the pump coupling
• Test the water level switch

IF YOU NEED TEST INFO AND TEARDOWN PROCEDURES COMMENT BACK.

You can carefully pry off the seal with a knife or similar tool, focusing on the glue points which on mine were at the 2, 4, 8 and 10 o'clock positions. I then installed a door lock switch kit which came with glue/cement to glue it back on once you are done, but you could probably use any good general purpose contact cement because the seal wants to stay put on its own.

Hi,
Draining problem is very common in Bosch washers. However, it is very easy to fix.

1) Remove the white circular plate, located on the bottom left. Push a small screwdriver or needle through it and simultaneously rotate the plate clockwise.
2) Open the drain valve. Rotate the circular black handle counterclockwise. Beware of residual water.
3) Clean it. Re-assemble in reverse order.
Thanks for contacting fixya.com

If the machine was made AFTER Jan. 1, 1995, than there are two "squeeze" point on the bottom of the front panel one is on the left and one is on the right you have to "squeeze" these points to loosen the panel, than on the top of the panel there are two clips that hold the panel from the top.

The load is out of balance. Open the lid and redistribute the contents. When it's empty, grab the basket and give it a slight push sideways. It should move a little but, not free swing. If it doesn't have much resistance, the "snubber" has dried out and should be replaced. It is simply a piece of rubber in a metal bracket, that rests on the tub. When the basket spins,the snubber keeps it from jumping around.

Call a few hardware store....I think I found my brushes at True Value. Then take the brushes/case & spring to a lawn mower etc. repair shop...they charge you a few bucks to get the right angle and length with the spring and case. Hope it helps!

Push-in center knob and and turn Counter Clockwise to loose it from the treaded shaft. Next, without Pushing in, continue turning CC till it comes off.

If necessary, remove the outer indicator knob by sqeezing the two release clips in the center. This knob is keyed to only go back on one way so you don't need to remember its location before removal.

Reverse the process to install new knobs.

Oh, if you need to replace the cam or timer which are behind these knobs, the front panel will have to be removed by first removing the top cover of the washer. Now you can access the six screws inside the washer and one in front behind the detergent dispenser.

there is a three post bracket bolted to the back of the inside drum. on ours two of the three spokes are broken. looks like you have to buy whole new drum assembly. around 300 bucks

My wife reported the same problem and I took the top off the washer (2 screws at rear of washer and top slides forward) . Under the top on the left front side behind is the dispenser. On the top is a click adjuster similar to a clock hand pointer and in the center is a tick mark and off to the left side is (-) marks for reduced dispensing and to the right (+) marks for increasing dispensing. I moved the pointer all the way to the plus side and after a few loads the dispenser works fine. I assume over time the different fluids (fabric softener, detergent, etc) tend to gum up the valve mechanism. If this doesn't work I would try pouring some very hot water in it to try and loosen things up. After you try all the free thing, I guess the last option is a new dispenser.