20 Most Recent Whirlpool 24 in. Portable Dishwasher Dishwasher - Page 6 Questions & Answers

The clean light flashing 7 times is an error code indicating an issue with the wash temperature. If the control does not detect a 4*F temperature rise in the main wash cycle, it will display the fault as the clean light flashing 7 times. There are several things that could cause the water not to heat, including the water being too hot coming in, an open door switch, or a faulty component in the heater circuit. The most common cause is the door switch not closing properly. This can be due to a loading issue or a latch issue. If upon visual inspection of the heating element no obvious defects are found, I would recommend resetting the control and running another cycle, paying close attention to door closure. If the light begins flashing again, you likely have a component failure. The heat circuit consists of several components including the element, control, door switch and tub thermostat(s). Reset the control by pressing teh following buttons within 5 seconds. Hit Temp Wash Heated Dry Hi Temp Wash Heated Dry.

I have the solution! Had error 4 and had the repair guy come....he said its caused by too many suds...if you are using tablets that have rinse aid as well as rinse aid, it causes to many bubbles, these get sucked down the two little outlets (located at the bottom of the dishwasher door, easy to see if you open the door completly) and make the water level in the base seem higher than it actually is which triggers the over flow button. Now to fix it is SUPER hard....NOT! Just pull out your dishwasher, and tip it back slightly. The water stuck in the base will trickle out...not much but will take 5-10 mins. Then turn it on, run on a rinse cycle to be sure its all gone! Easy Peesy. I called whirpool about this, and why they could not tell me how to fix it is beyond me......they told me to press and hold the start button...i dont think even they know how to fix it! So...I got to do this under warranty, now hopefully you get to fix it for free and we all win. Yay!

Are you sure the cycle is complete?
If it is drying dishes then you will be interrupting the cycle. It is possible to cancel cycle and start over.

There is a trouble shooting document behind the kick panel at the bottom of the machine. Follow the steps to determine which component is at fault. It could be a corrosion problem: My whirlpool dishwasher gold GU2475XTVQ0 had rapid blinking lights that started with the "4 Hour Delay" LED and changed to others when other buttons were pressed. The machine would not run. I followed the instructions located behind the kick panel and verified the keypad was the issue and not the control circuit by elimination. The big surprise for me was that when I used a straight pin to resistance check all of the buttons, they checked out OK. I reconnected the 14 pin connector (P1) to the control and found that the buttons/LEDs were behaving correctly! I believe that pushing the straight pin into the 14 pin connector removed any corrosion in the 10 year old device and permitted the keypad to communicate with the control again. I reassembled the dishwasher door and it ran with no problems. I was ready to replace the keypad for $150, but didn't have to!

It could be corrosion at P1 connector. There is a trouble shooting document behind the kick panel at the bottom of the machine. Follow the steps to determine which component is at fault. My whirlpool dishwasher gold GU2475XTVQ0 had rapid blinking lights that started with the "4 Hour Delay" LED and changed to others when other buttons were pressed. The machine would not run. I followed the instructions located behind the kick panel and verified the keypad was the issue and not the control circuit by elimination. The big surprise for me was that when I used a straight pin to resistance check all of the buttons, they checked out OK. I reconnected the 14 pin connector (P1) to the control and found that the buttons/LEDs were behaving correctly! I believe that pushing the straight pin into the 14 pin connector removed any corrosion in the 10 year old device and permitted the keypad to communicate with the control again. I reassembled the dishwasher door and it ran with no problems. I was ready to replace the keypad for $150, but didn't have to!

There is a trouble shooting document behind the kick panel at the bottom of the machine. Follow the steps to determine which component is at fault, but it may be corrosion in the low voltage connector. My whirlpool dishwasher gold GU2475XTVQ0 had rapid blinking lights that started with the "4 Hour Delay" LED and changed to others when other buttons were pressed. The machine would not run. I followed the instructions located behind the kick panel and verified the keypad was the issue and not the control circuit by elimination. The big surprise for me was that when I used a straight pin to resistance check all of the buttons, they checked out OK. I reconnected the 14 pin connector (P1) to the control and found that the buttons/LEDs were behaving correctly! I believe that pushing the straight pin into the 14 pin connector removed any corrosion in the 10 year old device and permitted the keypad to communicate with the control again. I reassembled the dishwasher door and it ran with no problems. I was ready to replace the keypad for $150, but didn't have to!

There is a trouble shooting document behind the kick panel at the bottom of the machine. Follow the steps to determine which component is at fault. My whirlpool dishwasher gold GU2475XTVQ0 had rapid blinking lights that started with the "4 Hour Delay" LED and changed to others when other buttons were pressed. The machine would not run. I followed the instructions located behind the kick panel and verified the keypad was the issue and not the control circuit by elimination. The big surprise for me was that when I used a straight pin to resistance check all of the buttons, they checked out OK. I reconnected the 14 pin connector (P1) to the control and found that the buttons/LEDs were behaving correctly! I believe that pushing the straight pin into the 14 pin connector removed any corrosion in the 10 year old device and permitted the keypad to communicate with the control again. I reassembled the dishwasher door and it ran with no problems. I was ready to replace the keypad for $150, but didn't have to!

There is a trouble shooting document behind the kick panel at the bottom of the machine. Follow the steps. My whirlpool dishwasher gold GU2475XTVQ0 had rapid blinking lights that started with the "4 Hour Delay" LED and changed to others when other buttons were pressed. The machine would not run. I followed the instructions located behind the kick panel and verified the keypad was the issue and not the control circuit by elimination. The big surprise for me was that when I used a straight pin to resistance check all of the buttons, they checked out OK. I reconnected the 14 pin connector (P1) to the control and found that the buttons/LEDs were behaving correctly! I believe that pushing the straight pin into the 14 pin connector removed any corrosion in the 10 year old device and permitted the keypad to communicate with the control again. I reassembled the dishwasher door and it ran with no problems. I was ready to replace the keypad for $150, but didn't have to!

You should find a trouble shooting document behind the kick panel of your machine. Follow the steps. My whirlpool dishwasher gold GU2475XTVQ0 had rapid blinking lights that started with the "4 Hour Delay" LED and changed to others when other buttons were pressed. The machine would not run. I followed the instructions located behind the kick panel and verified the keypad was the issue and not the control circuit by elimination. The big surprise for me was that when I used a straight pin to resistance check all of the buttons, they checked out OK. I reconnected the 14 pin connector (P1) to the control and found that the buttons/LEDs were behaving correctly! I believe that pushing the straight pin into the 14 pin connector removed any corrosion in the 10 year old device and permitted the keypad to communicate with the control again. I reassembled the dishwasher door and it ran with no problems. I was ready to replace the keypad for $150, but didn't have to!

My whirlpool dishwasher gold GU2475XTVQ0 had rapid blinking lights that started with the "4 Hour Delay" LED and changed to others when other buttons were pressed. The machine would not run. I followed the instructions located behind the kick panel and verified the keypad was the issue and not the control circuit by elimination. The big surprise for me was that when I used a straight pin to resistance check all of the buttons, they checked out OK. I reconnected the 14 pin connector (P1) to the control and found that the buttons/LEDs were behaving correctly! I believe that pushing the straight pin into the 14 pin connector removed any corrosion in the 10 year old device and permitted the keypad to communicate with the control again. I reassembled the dishwasher door and it ran with no problems. I was ready to replace the keypad for $150, but didn't have to! This may still be the problem after you replaced the control board.

My whirlpool dishwasher gold GU2475XTVQ0 had rapid blinking lights that started with the "4 Hour Delay" LED and changed to others when other buttons were pressed. The machine would not run. I followed the instructions located behind the kick panel and verified the keypad was the issue and not the control circuit by elimination. The big surprise for me was that when I used a straight pin to resistance check all of the buttons, they checked out OK. I reconnected the 14 pin connector (P1) to the control and found that the buttons/LEDs were behaving correctly! I believe that pushing the straight pin into the 14 pin connector removed any corrosion in the 10 year old device and permitted the keypad to communicate with the control again. I reassembled the dishwasher door and it ran with no problems. I was ready to replace the keypad for $150, but didn't have to!

It appears that the model number you gave is incomplete. Please check again and then perhaps you'll get some more answers.

Kendalm, thanks that helped by I needed to run that button sequence twice and then reset the power for 10secs. Out smarts the panel, problem is its not a permanent fix

Your water will not get hot because your control board since there is no water been coming into the dishwasher and turn the heater off you need to run the diagnostic mode fix the problem and that should take care of the issue

Try unplugging it and wait 30 seconds plug it back in and it should reset the computer

I had this problem. Fixed it but not sure what i did. I suspect it was either a temporay short, moist connection, or sensitive door latch. I shut off the circuit breaker and let stand for about a week. Perhaps it is drying. Turn back on, and the lights maybe blinking again, but press cancel button. The 2 minute drain will go on, let it drain and wait. The lights may still be blinking but wait 5-10 minutes and it may reset like mine did. You may have try this process a few times, like i did. I was playing with the door a bit too, firmly open and close. Hope this helps.

There is a sequence to reset. Firstly open the door then press heated dry normal heated dry normal within three seconds of each other

If you can fix my dishwasher I might be able to fix yours

I had the same problem with a Whirlpool ADP 6515, led flashes 6 times, pause and repeat. Open the door, remove the 2 screws that hold the control panel (1 top left, 1 top right). Gently lift the control panel up and away from the door to reveal the wiring, controllers etc. My controller was a Flextronics UCB-IC-EBL-P7-M3-HE1. Look at the connectors, one of them is marked on the controller as NTC and has 2 blue wires, push down on the white plastic tab below it and disconnect it (pull it horizontally away from the controller)..I used a multimeter on 200k range and measured the resistance by probing those 2 blue wires and the NTC temperature sensor measured about 50k ohms +/- 5k depending on the room temperature. And that is correct for that NTC. (I knew the NTC was good as I had removed it from underneath the machine previously and measured the resistance whilst holding it under the hot tap as it went from cold water to hot. It's a Negative Temperature Coefficient sensor so the resistance reduces as it gets hotter).So problem was definitely not that. Solution was simple, on the connector itself, just use a very small flat bladed watchmakers type screwdriver to clean the pin contact faces and then gently pinch the pins of each wire closer together so that they bites tighter onto the controller.when you reconnect it.Refit the control panel and problem solved.Conclusion; the contact resistance of the connector to the controller added to the total resistance of the NTC and made the dishwasher think that the water was below the safe activation of the motor cycle, e.g. it thought the water was iced up.Job done !

Some dishwashers have soft food disposals. If something gets in this disposal that will not dissolve such as bone, pop corn kernels, broken glass. This will make noise throughout the cycle. Sometimes after many cycles it will grind itself away. Otherwise service would be needed if you don’t know how to get inside the pump.