20 Most Recent Yamaha RX-V661 Receiver - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Try adjusting the sample rate of the receiver.

The connections themselves are fairly simple but it pays to understand what happens in the loop.

In general, any Line-Level external processor (EQ, dynamic range expander, etc) will go into a Tape Monitor loop on a receiver. A Tape Monitor, when engaged, sends the stereo analog signal Out to the Processor, massages it and returns it to the receiver via the Tape Monitor IN connectors to be passed on to the receiver's internal processes (volume, tone, whatever).

Old school analog stereo-only receivers consistently work this way. Newer digital and audio/video receivers introduce a couple of problems: 1) digital sound processing to simulate a variety of soundfields; 2) multiple output channels, either discrete or digitally-generated.

The latter requires that whatever signal is being processed experiences a maximum of one analog-digital-analog conversion.

EVERYTHING analog coming into the modern digital receiver is automatically converted to a digital signal for internal processing unless you choose a STEREO-only or STEREO-Direct setting. Consequently, no further external analog-digital conversions would be allowed if, say, a Tape Monitor circuit was activated, and a possible feedback loop could otherwise be created in a digital-sourced selection (output to its own input), so the unit is wired to treat the Tape Monitor as the first analog step in the process and defeats any pure digital sources.

In a multichannel unit, what would happen to the other channels if you sent ONLY the Front Left & Right out for processing? They would NOT be processed. That logical problem also plays into the decision to defeat digital sources if the Tape Monitor is activated. I don't totally agree with the engineers but that's the way it is. Nature of the digital beast.

Okay, back to the hook-up: Receiver MD/CDR Out to the SS2 EQ Preamp- or Amp-In; Receiver MD/CDR In from the SS2 EQ Preamp- or Amp-Out.

So, to sum up, you can only use the EQ for analog stereo sources. If you actually want to use an analog recording deck you could place it within the typical Equalizer's own Tape Monitor loop(s). Many have two to facilitate equalized dubbing between decks.

[Or you could obtain a dbx Program Route Selector (check eBay, I highly recommend the 400x, of which I have two) and it would, while only using one receiver Tape Loop, allow for three discrete attachment paths for processors and three for tape decks with the added flexibility of front-panel selection of any and all, with the processors being before, after or between the source or tape decks. Plus it has a dedicated facility for an inline dbx Noise Reduction Processor that can also be juggled around via pushbuttons. Pretty neat.]

RAV326 or WJ19440US

I have an extra Yamaha remote (model number RAV311), barely used, that has all the buttons the stock remote has, just is thinner. It also should be programmable. If you're interested, email me through my website http://imaginerc.com/

Hello Sramub hi, there are shorted parts inside your Yamaha, the shorted part is causing the unit not to power on. This feature of not powering on is the powers supply ability to prevent the unit for further damage. Visit your local Yamaha store, for service.

Hello Susan hi, you have a situation where the problem is the TV, OR the cable signal, to isolate, try using another TV, if the other TV produces the same result, meaning flicker are present, then you have the cable company to blame. If the flicker disappears on the other TV, then you have the part problematic. This will solve half the problem. finding the problem.

i just got the same receiver like few days ago im still leaning it too,it is a very nice receiver though. here is some settings to help you.
check this to make sure zone 2 is showing in the menu,
on remote
menu,basic setup, speaker set,extra should show zone 2 it might show zone b...presence...or none needs set on zone 2 hit the left a-e/cat button it is weird the right doesnt circle all around? i had to call crutchfield tech for that one(GREAT COMPANY!)so that is for the setting to make sure zone 2 is set up now some to adjust the volume.
menu, manual,options,zone 2 set. here you can set 2 features
max volume( the loudest it will play) inti vol(the volume that it will play at when it is turned on) the yamaha has alot of quirks to it but has a very nice sound. for second zone features and a easier receiver to set up i have onkyo and they are very easy to set up zone 2 olume and everything on the front panel. hope you dont have to try to program a universal remote to work it seems yamaha uses discrete codes that are impossible to find i tried one universal and can only get very basic features to work.
hope this helps you out,
jeff

Sorry but you have to get your amplifier at a technician. The buzz from the speakers means internal electronic damage at the amplifier. TAKE CARE THAT in case of keeping the speakers on the buzz noise for some seconds may destroy the speakers.

In case of a problem or clarification, don't hesitate to post me a reply before rejecting my answer.
If you are satisfied, rate my solution with the "thumbs" or (even better) add a testimonial.

Thanks and regards
Please kindly rate this solution
Stelios
direct FixYa link: http://www.fixya.com/users/technical114

The Troubleshooting section of the manual starts with some suggestions. Check your speaker imoedance settings and make sure you're not presenting too LOW an impedance to the amplifiers.

The manual says the Dolby Pro Logic IIX mode would not be available if "SB L/R SP" is set to "NONE", which it should be if you're set up for 5.1 instead of 7.1. It's not clear what happens if you have the Surround Back speakers defined but not connected. Probably no harm but the receiver is likely trying to channel some information to non-existent speakers.

Since there's a parametric equalizer built in I'd check to make sure it's not set for bizarre boost in the bass.

The more bells and buzzers they provide for adjustment, the more opportunities for MALadjustment.

Just a wild guess. Are you over-taxing the wall outlets or power source feeding everything; or do you have excessive draw on the receiver's convenience outlets? 100 watts maximum is allowed between them.

If a fuse was blown, it likely would have no power. However if the power board has overheated, the capacitors may have swelled up and burnt out and will only allow it to power on for a few seconds, then shut down. The capacitors can look swelled up or burnt or have burn marks on the power circuit board. You can test them with a continuity meter. Each component has a printed number of it's voltage and ohm resistance so you can test them.

Page 102 under troubleshooting: it thinks you have Surround Back speakers but NO Surround speakers. This would be an invalid configuration. Refers to page 13 for the remedy.

Either you have a bad relay, or the power converter is bad. You can test relays with an ohmmeter and the power inverter/converter with a voltmeter.

We had the same problem - I think it was reset when the power went off in a storm. Went to Yamaha website (http://www.yamaha.com/yec/faq/faqdetail.html?CNTID=206010&CTID=5009135) and found the following worked:

Assigning the receivers internal amp for Zone 2:

1. Set the remote control [SIDE SELECTOR SWITCH] to [AMP]. (Located to the right of the volume buttons on the Remote).
2. Press the [SET MENU] button on the remote control.
3. Arrow down to Manual Setup and press the [ENTER] button on the remote control.
4. Arrow to the Sound Menu option and press the [ENTER] button on the remote control.
5. Arrow to Speaker Set and press the [ENTER] button on the remote control.
6. Arrow to the EXTRA SP ASSIGN and select ZONE2
7. Press the [RETURN] button on the remote control to exit out and return to the Manual Setup.

I think I know where your problem is. But first of all, in order to avoid misunderstanding let me clarify something. Do you use an external speaker switch box? If it's possible could you tell me the brand - model.

Waiting clarification, don't hesitate to post.

Thanks and regards
Stelios
direct FixYa link: http://www.fixya.com/users/technical114

if its overheating you might have to replace the reciever

These parts come from yamaha so you will just have to wait, sorry. They get replaced commonly. Larry's Electronics.

You should be able to clear the message with a Factory Reset per page 103 of your manual. Please do the following:

1) Press MASTER ON/OFF on the front panel to release it outward to the OFF position to turn off this unit.
2) Press and hold TONE CONTROL and then press MASTER ON/OFF inward to the ON position to turn on this unit.
3) Rotate the PROGRAM selector to select “PRESET”.
4) Press TONE CONTROL repeatedly to select “RESET”.
5) Press MASTER ON/OFF to release it outward to the OFF position to confirm your selection and turn off this unit.

If this doesn't work you may need to check and make sure that you have speakers assigned to whatever zone the message is coming from.

Um, since this unit doesn't actively drive a subwoofer by design, how would THAT be a factor in its demise? Or are you using it as an amp for the sub? Then we need to know more about the sub - like its model number and impedance.

And did its predecessor also serve the same purpose? If you're overheating amps routinely I think you need to get more powerful (or professional-grade) amps.

This is not a very powerful receiver at 90wpc so using it for sub duty may be asking too much of it if you drive it too hard.

If it won't turn on with NO speakers attached, well, may it rest in peace. What model was the old receiver?

When a system shuts down after a few seconds it is the self protect circuit shutting down power to the outputs to prevent (further) damage. It may be caused by frayed speaker wires, bad speaker voice coils, or blown output transistors. First, turn off power and remove all speaker wires from the receiver. Turn it back on and see if the problem remains. If it works OK, inspect each speaker wire at both ends for loose strands and correct these. Then, hook up your speakers one at a time until the problem reappears. That speaker or its' wiring is your problem. For safety's sake. turn the receiver off before connecting each speaker. An accidental short of the output terminals can be disastrous (and expensive).