Top 20 Sony STR-DG510 Receiver Questions & Answers

You will need a pre-amp with a RIAA curve. This is vital as the output from a vinyl disc is nothing remotely like flat. It is also at a very low level and will need to be boosted to go into your receiver. RIAA pre-amps are widely available and you get what you pay for. Once you have bought one you should be able to plug its output into the aux on your receiver.

check your connections if they are good another problem I could see possibly happening was if the wires for the speakers were plugged into the amp while it was turned on the wires may have touched together and blew the side out of your amplifier.

That's because tha hdmi is desing to play sound to the reciver you may have to use out put sound from the unit.

Does the tv have an optical output jack? If so, that is probably the easiest way.

on the sony site it says the hdmi into the reciever is for the video, relayed by another hdmi to the tv, the audio will still be the coax I personally would use the hdmi from dvd directly to the tv, and the coax from dvd directly to the reciever and call it a day

You need to change the internet settings in the user menu tor the new setup.

I had the same issue - I found that there is a square chip, about an inch and a half from the amplifier chips and heat sink, which got so hot (i could not even touch it), it was seperating one of its pins from the circuit board (due to a hairline crack on the pin itself. When it got that hot, ther metal pin seperated at the crack which made this chip short out, creating the "protect" to happen. I resoldered the solder joints on the circuit board where the pins of this chip connected and fixed the cracked pin with a jumper strand of wire, then made an aluminum heat sink and connected it directly to the chip -no more issues!

Hello there, usually replacing fuses are not the solution to most problems. Basically what you have to do is first locate the source of power to the fuse and identify why the power supply to the fuse is as high as it is and address the reason for such flow before replacing the fuse. Depending on what happened to cause the problem initially you might have to replace more than a fuse and probably a diode and a conductor which supply power to the fuse as they might have lost the ability to step down the power which flows to the fuse. Check the components which supply the fuse to determine where exactly the surge in power is coming from.
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The most common problem found on FixYa for Audio Video Receiver's is:

My receiver say's "Protect" or turns on then off. What's wrong? Seven times out of ten it is a shorted speaker or speaker wire. To determine your exact problem, the first step is to disconnect all speaker wires "at your receiver" Next: Turn the receiver back on. If your receiver still says "protect" or turns off, it needs to be serviced. If your receiver stays on; reconnect your speakers one at a time and power back up after each speaker. You may find that after reconnecting all speaker wires it works! Most commonly the small braids of wire from the + to the - have touched and have caused the problem. In some instances, you noticed the problem only when turning the volume up. either way, make sure the exposed wires to your receiver are no longer than 1/2" long and are completely under the screw down terminal or slide in. When you've found the wire or speaker with the problem, your receiver will go back into "protect" At this point, disconnect the wire from the speaker at the speaker that may be causing the problem then test again.* Note* Make sure speaker wires do Not touch each other as this Will cause a short! If you turn the receiver back on and it stays on, you now know the problem is in your speaker itself. To test your speaker, you will need a multimeter. Set it to ohms resistance and touch the speaker terminals, if there is a short internally the meter will read "1......" If it's an analog meter, it will peg to the right. There's your problem. Now, within any speaker there are quite a few possibilities as to what could be causing the problem. Most common is a blown coil and the speaker needs to be replaced. Some speakers have internal crossovers (usually floor standing speakers) and may have a shorted or burnt board (usually very visible brown burn marks on the board) and can possibly be repaired if your handy with a soldering iron. Now, if you disconnect the speaker wire at the speaker and it still says "protect" Check your wire for the obvious cut or nail thru the wire if possible. If your system has wiring that runs behind walls, you may need to use your meter again. Disconnect the wire at both ends, keep the ends separated, put your meter on ohms resistance and touch probes to the + and - wires at one side. If the meter pegs to the right or reads "1...." the wire is shorted and needs to be replaced or repaired at the short. Hope this helps.

Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

Check for loose speaker connections at the speaker as another possible root cause for intermittent shutdown.

Sony strdg510 does not have fuses on the output, it uses an output relay. If you do not hear the second click about 6 sec. after powering it on, there is a problem in the output circuit. If you do hear that click, check that the speakers are on and tape 2 / tape monitor is off and that the speakers and wiring are good.

A big UNDO button. 450??? Really? Bury the ashes.

The clicking sound is a bad power inverter. I have seen this several times. The power inverter aka power supply, power converter. If you can get a voltmeter then you can test it. See how much is going from the power inverter to the main circuit board. Another possible cause would be a faulty self-protection circuit that these have to keep from the system overloading it goes into protect mode when there is to much volume frequency.

Problem is in the amplifier output stage...there is probably a shorted component...the short could have come from a bad speaker..or the speaker wires getting touched together while it was on...you could return to store if it is new and get a new one...maybe it was a return and accidentally got put back into stock

it could be the speaker wires , might be touching each other or not placed correctly, just double check them.

According to the manual, "Unlock" appears on the display when there is no coax or optical input on the selected device.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue.
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asnowman

check that you have selected analog and not digital

I have a similar problem but only when playing Blu Ray even through the coaxial ports. Do I have loose connection? Is my Base set too high?

It sounds like the BDP unit is set to downmix PCM to the Optical Digital Audio output (the default). You need to change it to something like Dolby Digital. Crack the manual and look at all the digital audio settings you need to choose.

Stop feeding it fuses and take it to a service tech.