Frigidaire Gallery Series GLHS269ZDB 36" 26.0 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator w/ 7 Button Dispense... - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

there should be bolts that come with pedestal so you need to take your legs out of the washer now lay it on its back then bolt the pedestal up to it and if the pedestal dont have feet put the ones out of the washer on it

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Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

heatman101

No need to remove the door if you can remove the inner panel to have access to guts for measurement.

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Have you ever heard an alarm go off? Secondly, have you ever heard an alarm COME ON? Which was louder? What you probably hear is a power failure alarm. Unplug it for a few minutes, then plug it back in and see if it clears itself.

remove racks,shut door select self clean on computer,push up or down arrows for clean time amount and it should lock door and begin cleaning....always select the minimum amt of clean time allowable,for this will minimize chances of damage to your oven,if not clean after use-wait 24 hrs before running self clean mode again

Hallo I believe that it is your controller that is faulty. Regards

Hallo Also test your water pressure. Regards

Hallo 1:Check your door seals(damage door seals causes fridge to suck humidity into the fridge causing it to ice up to much and then the pan type humidifier at the back of the bottom of the fridge can evaporate the water fast enough causing an over flow). 2:If door seals aren't damage I would say at this moment its cold where you live and it would also cause high humidity and there for your thermostat should be set to min:2 and max:3 your choice and try to prevent opening the door to much or keeping it open for 2 long. 3:Ievel the fridge ensure that its level. 4:If the problem still occur let me know. Regards

It(evaporator) may have been the reason for the original failure. If he did a poor job brazing the new compressor it could have caused the restriction. If he failed to replace the filter drier it could have clogged. If he did not vacuum the system from the high and low sides it could have caused a restriction.
He could open the system,replace the filter drier,blow nitrogen through the high and low sides to clear a restriction possibly without having to replace the evaporator. Then pull a thorough vacuum and recharge refrigerant with a weight scale.

ice makers are cheaper get a technician in to diagnose the fault properly before making the decision as the repair could be simple and cheap.

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"

Refrigerator Leaking From Icemaker If it's leaking from inside the freezer then it's coming from the icemaker or the drain. Lets start with the icemaker. If it's the icemaker there will likely be an ice hanging from the icemaker or just a big block of ice in the ice bin. In any case, it will be obvious. There are a few reasons this will happen: one is the icemaker will stop turning when it gets to the fill cycle. This will happen when the gears in the icemaker break. On GE icemakers that were made before the year 2000, you can see the gears by taking off the cover on the front of the icemaker. However, if the small gear is broke you can't buy it as far as I know. I have been taking them off of junk icemakers for years. So this part may be hard to find. But if the big gear is broke replace it. Another reason icemakers leak is the fill tube is stopped up and I already discussed this earlier (replace water valve and clean out tube). Another reason icemakers leak is that the water comes in too fast so it over fills the first cube mold. When this happens you will get a few drops of water when it fills. To fix this you have to take the icemaker out and remove the piece on the side of the icemaker. I don't know the name of it so for this we'll call it cube separator because that's what it does (most of them just snap off others have a screws). Now take silicone (RTV) and put a small amount around the first cube mold only under the cube separator. Now reinstall the cube separator and wipe off excess silicone and it shouldn't leak anymore. Another reason that icemakers leak is that the refrigerator water valve sticks after the icemaker goes out of the fill cycle. When this happens the valve stays on and the icemaker keeps on turning, in which case, replace the refrigerator water valve.

frozen water supply chute to icemaker, frozen water lines in door, unplug for 8 hours with doors open and this may fix your problem. fridge may be set too cold 38 f fridge and 0 f freezer

its suppose to freeze then defrost however I suspect you have a plugged / clogged evaporator drain line hole. in ur freezer, have to remove the bottom and back plate and have a look at it as well as check ur drain hose line going in and out

usually if u push down or lift up on the fridge at wheels it will unlock them

Thank you for your inquiry, friend!

From my understanding your Frigidaire dishwasher doesn't drain properly. It could be possible that your drain line or filter trap is clogged. I would recommend checking the drain hose to make sure it is not clogged or kinked. You can also look at the filter in the bottom of your tub to access that filter you would need to remove the rack and it is located right under the spray arm. You should be able to lift up and pull the trap out if it is dirty clean it and reinstall it. If everything appears to work properly it could be a possible issue with your drain pump and you may need to have it replaced. I hope this information is helpful for you. -Matt

Look inside door and get the model number for me. Could be igniter, gas solenoids or temp control switch inside. Let me know, Thanks Sea Breeze

Thank you for your post, friend! I see that you are receiving an excessive frost buildup on the inside of your Frigidaire refrigerator. I would check the gasket to very it is sealing properly. You can do that by using a dollar bill. Place the bill between the body of the fresh food and close the door. The dollar bill should stay in place and pull out with a small amount of resistance. If the dollar bill falls out when placed between the gasket and cabinet then the gasket may need to be replaced. I hope this information has been beneficial. - Matt

I appreciate your post, friend!

I see your question is labeled under Frigidaire refrigerator, GLHS269ZDB. In order to get your ice hold back in place you should be able to line it up and push it into the rear of your refrigerator. If you continue having difficulty with installing the ice bin I would reach out to a technician in your local area for support. I hope this is helpful. -Matt