20 Most Recent Frigidaire Gallery Series GLHS269ZDB 36" 26.0 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator w/ 7 Button Dispense... - Page 5 Questions & Answers

There is no "air filter" on that unit.

Remove the back of the cabinet. Pull the drain boot from the tub to pump and reach up into the tub to see if you can feel an article of clothing. Also, open the door and push the boot aside at the bottom of the door frame area and look for anything down in there.Post back your findings.

A rare problem from what I hear,mqre than likely the circut board that controls the temp has shorted,the unit is designed to default to factory settings thus your temp is fine however the temp cannot be adjusted.and the beep.... is the unit telling you that... frigidair has an online troubleshooter that should help, and lastley... you may always remove the faceplate and check for any thing loose.MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF when youdo so. I am sure you have already pushed yhe "allarm" Off button if you have not..do so and dont tell anybody!!

Hi - If your ice maker has stopped producing ice completely, try checking the following:

1. It may be turned off. Look for the wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If the wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. If so, try one of these: If your ice maker has a small red plastic lever, lower it to lower the wire. If there's no plastic lever, simply lower the wire. In either case, the ice maker should begin producing ice again.

2. Also make sure that the temperature is 8 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. If the freezer is too warm, the ice maker won't cycle properly.

3. When was the last time the filter was changed? Most side-by-side filters are recommended to be change approximately every 6-9 months depending on your water usage and frequency. The ice maker fill tube may be blocked with ice or have a clogged water filter. If so, melt the blockage using a hair dryer-but be careful to not melt any plastic parts!

4. Also replace the water shut-off valve or water-inlet valve, or both, if necessary. The ice maker head assembly may have broken parts. Look to see if the gears are broken. Check to see if the small plastic arms that rest against the ice rake are broken. If the ice maker head assembly is modular and you've found broken parts, you can just replace it.

Hello mariagandrad - So I can better assist you, do you happen to have the exact model number?

Hello Glenda - If the unit is not cooling in either section of the appliance, you are experiencing some form of sealed system issue. This can include the compressor not working correctly, the evaporator fan not turning, or even coolant in the lines not at the correct levels to properly cool. If the compressor is running, humming, or even a little warm then that is typically normal. However if the compressor is running hot, then it is over working and the issue could be before the compressor in the evaporate fan, coil or coolant lines. Unless the unit is displaying an error code, often alpha-numeric, then you would need to contact your manufacturer and then a professional to move forward accurately

Do you notice if the water was coming from the dispenser door area or from underneath the unit? Did this unit recently go into a defrost cycle at all that you might know of?

The damper switch / door is between your two doors. It is the one part that allows cool air from the freezer to cool the refrigerator portion.

More than likely the compressor grounded out blowing the switch, which I've seen a few times dealing with that brand. The times that I've ran across this situation, the main control board inside the refrigerator had to be replaced as well because the compressor sent a surge up to that section severely burning the board. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Shutting off power to the fridge at the breaker worked for me, too!

Just fixed my cfes388 after giving up finding another power board or someone to fix it! It got so bad lately that we couldn't use the oven because it would quit after 10 min. and then might take an hour to come back on! Even using just the stovetop would create enough heat to make the display go crazy.What I found were several cracked solder joints at the connector that the ribbon cable from the display plugs into on the power board. I resoldered three pins that when metered and touched would go open. Used the oven for several hours today with no trouble at all!