20 Most Recent Frigidaire 20.6 cu. ft. Top Freezer Refrigerator with Factory Installed Ice Maker - Page 7 Questions & Answers

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Cannot handle grease, especially in that cold area. Super light weight oil only. Sewing machine oil or equivalent.
The rule in this business has always been. Oil is for preventative maintenance, not repair. If you were having issues with the motor, a new one is the correct proceedure.

This is normal. It is the sound of the refrigerant flowing through the coil on start up. This will cause the knocking sound you are hearing. It should only last for about 7-10 seconds. You might also hear a cracking noise due to the insulation expanding and contracting due to fluctuating temperature. Refer back to your owners manual under normal operation sounds. Hope this helps.

good call
now verify,
take off the back wall and defrost as much of the ice as you can, if you can let it defrost
other wise a hair dryer works well here
your looking for a button looking thing on the coil
two wires comming out of it
i think whirlpool uses pink and white or brown and white
any way inspect that for damge, that is your defrost terminator.
if that looks ok
ohm out you heater
it is usually one of those two things

if you garage is not heated and the temp falls below 32 it will not work

pop the cover off you ice machine you should see a set screw, with a plus and minus turn it one 1/2 turn
check the ice,,,
if it still needs more time give in 1/2 turn increments'
untill your happy

that is ok these fridges have the condencer lines within the walls of the fridge or some have heaters this is for condensate not to form on the fridge it keeps the fridge dry on the outside

You will have to empty your fridge and remove the back panel.clean it out by pouring warm water mixed with Baking soda into the drain at the back of the freezer compartment and let it drain into the drip pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. In the refrigerator section, find the screws that hold the control console securely to the roof of the refrigerator. Usually there are two of them towards the front. The front part of the panel will drop down and then you will see a plug to separate so now you can remove the entire control panel and sit it on the floor or kitchen table. Now you will see the hole going into the freezer section and the other hole going to the defrost pan under the refrigerator. I am suspecting the tube on the rear of the console which is on the floor or the table right now is either cracked or not fitting snuggly in the hole at the rear of the refrigerator. If you do not find any cracks, take some putty and wrap it around the end of the tube and then reinstall the console/control panel making a secure and tight fit into the hole.

The freezer fan motor may be bad. The main back panel in the freezer can be removed to check it out. Spin the motor wiht your finger to see if it tries to run. If it does then it is shot.

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Hello, this sounds like you have a blockage in the drain tube, remove panel back/bottom of freezer..you may see ice build up...melt ice with hair dryer/heat gun...you will see a pan below evaporator...melt ice in pan...dry water up in pan with paper towel...now you should see a hole in pan that leads to drain tube...pour some hot water in pan..wait a couple minutes..mop up water and repeat this step 2-3 times....once you have done this find some flexible curatain wire or electrical wire..poke down the hole until you see the water drain..now it is clear..put back panel back and you are good to go. The reason you see water in the fridge is because the water has been leaking into the freezer and down the vent into the fridge instead of running into the drain hole...Please feel free to comment again if you need any further assistance. Mike

Sir, To solve this problem, you must open the compressor area at the back bottom of the refrigerator and chek the temperature of the pressure line. If the temperature is between 55celcius to 60 than its ok. Or else you need to change the refrigerant. I suggest you to contact the service authority.

Thanks for contacting Fixya.

Try cleaning the back if dirty, and yes the styrofoam is what guides the air.

Sounds like there has been a leak of gas but first let it run for the night after wards and if it fails to cool it has a gas leak and it will be cheaper to just get another used fridge, but verify it functiones befor purchas!

You may have a blocked capiliary tube or the refrigerant has leaked, sadly domestic fridges have a conciderable amount to go wrong with them, but based on the order you discribed you have a blocked cap tub and now it has progressed to cuase the compressor to trip on over load or you have experianced a burn out. you may with to consider junking it and get a new fridge as the repair costs will be considerable!

Sounds like you have a seized rotor, Try unplugging it for several hours if this fails, you can try and check all the wires for good conections and insure the compressor is geting good voltage, verify if you have a clamp on current meter, the current will mesure the LRA on the compressors lable, you can try and see if it has a start capaciter, and if it does use a start cap that is over sized by a 135% and see if that works. If you do not have much technical experiance it is advisable not to mess with it and replace the fridge through warrenty.

Adjust the front legs of your refrigerator slightly to raise the refrigerator. and and store items on the freezer door shelves to add weight. This is a problem of pneumatics and a testament to how tight newer refrigerators are. When you close the large refrigerator door it compresses the air in the refrigerator compartment. Both compartments are connected by air passages and thus the pressure change is transferred to the freezer causing the freezer door to pop open.

Raising the front of the refrigerator a tiny bit will help both doors close from the 90 degree point, which is desirable. Adding weight to the shelf will just help the process.

An additional aid in self-closure will be to use vegetable oil on a paper towel to wipe down the hinge side face of both door seals. All these maneuvers should aid in causing the door to stay closed and re-close if it should open slightly. Good Luck

please clean the water drainer or the pipe for drainer down side.

you may have ice buildup in the evaporator ... i would take everything out (put food in insulated picnic baskets or someone elses refrigerater) .. then turn it off or unplug it over night with all doors open ... put down towels to catch any melting ice water .. empty ice tray ... the next day turn it back on and see if it doesnt cool properly ..it will take a few hours to stabilize ..

the problem likely was caused by a door being a little open for a long time ... that lets lots of moisture in which may freeze and accumulate on the evaporator .. the system cant recover from that unless you completely defrost it as above ... you might want to clean underneath it while you have it out of service .. vacuum/clean the coils and fan

most likely a faulty defrost heater. problem is creating blocked air flow.

most likely your defrost drain is clogged and it is overflowing. look on back of box. there may be a removable p- trap.

Installation instructions indicate that this may be caused by leveling. Check installation instructions. There is to be some incline from front to back. It is to be level from side to side. There are also very specific instructions for the hinges. Check these out too.