20 Most Recent Sub-Zero 700TCLH Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
Check Temp inside freezer. It has to be down to about 10 or 15 degrees
This can cause slow ice making if its too high even tho its freezing everything else at 25 degrees
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
The icemaker is 110v
See if water is in icemaker.
Pour water in Ice Maker and wait to see if it ejects.
If it ejects thenyou need to replace water valve in rear bottom of fridge(Its the part that
attaches to water line out of wall)
If it doesn't eject then it is a faulty Ice Maker.
If its leaking or no water at icemaker or door either one, then the valve at the rear bottom of ref needs replacing
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also if it is getting drinking water to the door but not to the icemaker (or vice versa) Then you need to replace
the water valve at the bottom rear of the fridge. It is a double valve and one side is not working
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
If you still have trouble GO HERE:

hhttp://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.htm

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Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigeratornot Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator DefrostTimer Problem

WaterRunning in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigeratoror Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote about refrigerators and the fan noisethat they develop sometimes...

RefrigeratorFan Noise
heatman101

This error codemeans defrost under heat. The thing about it is chances are there really is no problem. There is a wire that runs from the drefrost thermostat in the freezer to the conrol heading. This wire is split into three sections, and sometimes signal is lost, or degraded, going back to the control so the machine thinks that the defrost heaters are not working properly. The only real way to fix this is to take th freezer wall out, find the wire which I think is blue, and cut the junctions and use wire nuts to tie them together. There are two junctions in the freezer , and one near the control board, but if you can live with seeing the 24 code and know there is no problem, I wouldn't worry to much. Most of te time calling a tech will only get you smeone trying to sell you a part you don't need. Hope this helped. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you figure out what size you have...

New Refrigerator Size or Refrigerator Cubic Feet
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4326731-new_refrigerator_size_or_refrigerator

heatman101

I believe the freezer has to get down to 7 degrees or lower for icemaker to harvest. Clean your condenser and blow it out. If that doe not fix it you will need service for sealed system

Hi Richard,
The most likely cause of your problem is a loose wire in the plug connecting your fridge to the power socket - check the terminal screws that secure the wires into the plug, and of course check or replace the fuse with a known "good" one.

Also plug some other appliance in the socket that your fridge is normally connected to, just to make sure there is power at the socket itself.

I have never known fridges to have internal fuses, but there's always a first time :-)

Hope this helps - if not come back with a comment so I can try to help you further.

Cheers, D.

a lot of the sub-zero doors are good and heavy duty, but the plastic shim under the hinge wears and can drag when you go to close door, usually a simply repair to find a washer for the door hinge.

check evaporator for leak

Mark,I've got a 700 Series and have found some of these sites very helpful in running tests and discovering the fault codes.https://www.google.com/search?q=sub-zero+661+enter+diagnostics&newwindow=1&sxsrf=APwXEdc-OOiWdARscxmB36rYFCeB7mc_eQ%3A1683475309954&source=hp&ei=bctXZOLSN_uz0PEPu_aaoAI&iflsig=AOEireoAAAAAZFfZfYm8SNK-nX24VEwOvWrAcCMus128&oq=Sub-Zero+661+enter+di&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAEYAjIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKABMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyCAghEBYQHhAdOgYIABAWEB46CAgAEBYQHhAPOgUIIRCrAlAAWJ9KYIGLAWgBcAB4AIABvgGIAegMkgEEMC4xMZgBAKABAqABAQ&sclient=gws-wizBest to you.Also one thing too check is the door seal. My 700 compressor was running all the time and it turned out to be a bad door seal. I did however get a EC code so it may not be this in your case.

Question edited for clarity and typo. Undercounter fridges tend to get neglected. Pull it out and clean the condenser fins and any vents back there. If that doesn't fix it, it probably needs a refrigerant gas top up. There is a video that may be of interest. https://www.google.com/search?q=Subzero+249RP ..

Fans working and air flowing thru the cooling coils? The inside fan warms the evaporator, or cooling coil. If this coil does not go thru a defrost cycle or if there is ice build up to the point no air gets across it, that could be the scenario.Then it would need defrosting, or inspection to make sure there is free air flow both inside and outside the fridge, including the defrost timer if present. If all this checks out ok, then the refrigeration circuit is to be looked at by a technician.

hi thanks for the question you do have a no defrost problem The defrost timer is not advancing to the defrost cycle The timer is located on the top where the compressor is located do ypu have an owners manual if you do you should have a bresk down of that fridge So replace the timer thanks The appliance doc

check and inspect gasket seal or door not closing tight

Most valves are the same.. icemaker fill valves

Fridge and freezer cabinets aren't anywhere near as rigid as they look - it is important they stand on firm level ground and using a spirit level and any adjustable feet the cabinet should stand level and four-square. This is good for the compressor too. Once level and square the door will remain in whatever position it is placed. There isn't usually much or any adjustment available at the door hinges but if there is the door should be adjusted for the best fit and the magnetic door seal should close to the metal of the cabinet and create an almost airtight seal. If after this process the door doesn't fit and an almost even gap between the door and cabinet isn't achievable, the door might be warped - the door also isn't rigid; very flimsy and flexible without the plastic liner and so any warp in the door is likely to be caused by a badly fitted liner or a poor quality liner...

Suggest first add up the costs to fix everything needed on your unit verses its age. My guess would be more cost effective to buy a new fridge.

I think it isn't fine because if a fridge/freezer that is otherwise healthy runs continuously (due to a thermostat fault), it would be colder than you could imagine with lower than arctic temperatures in the freezer compartment, minus 30-40 C for example. The conclusion must be your fridge isn't fine. Proper freezer temperature, incidentally, is minus 25-27 C for food to have a reasonable lifespan with minimal deterioration. There is no benefit from being colder but significantly warmer would mean the freezer contents should be replaced much more often - the freezer compartment of an old fashioned fridge (about minus 5) was reckoned to give fish, meat and dairy up to one month safe lifespan. A fridge that runs continuously (where the thermostat is good) could have a refrigerant loss resulting in a huge drop in efficiency, the insulation could be failing, the compressor could be failing or the de-icing panel could be permanently switched on - or any combination of these things. I note you say the coils are clean. If the refrigeration system is good with the compressor running continuously the coils will be hand-hot.