20 Most Recent Frigidaire PLEB27T9DC Electric Double Oven Questions & Answers

This exploded diagram of the door should help you get it apart, It is going to be shrunk by the forum software, the full size image is
here http://www.easyapplianceparts.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=FEB30T6DCC&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=4
along with a full list of parts should you need them

Hi, Seems like you found out the hard way what I wrote about in this tip...Check it out it also contains some thing to try on how to unlock that oven..Self Cleaning Oven Problemheatman101 Asker

make sure oven is set for manual and not time bake if set for manual and oven does not come on check the bake element any appliance parts house can test your element

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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the usual cuase for this problem is that the element has gone, usually fairly cheap to buty and easy to fit.

wow, that is so weird...i was just getting ready to write the exact same thing. this last time mine beeped, i just kept letting it beep for several minutes. if kept on. i then went in and pressed all the buttons except for cancel and nothing happened. then i pressed the oven light button. the beeping stopped. not sure if it's coincidence or if that was what i was supposed to press. i will keep messing with the buttons and let you know if i figure it out. i will dread if it beeps all night long.

Turn the power off at the breaker box for five minutes.
this will reset the system of any electronic glitches.

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there is sometimes a thermal fuse inside the caseing might have to take the top off if not then you will need a new timer be safe and unplug

it must be thermostat in bottom oven

I would use a number 6. always better to use more then you need.

stick with GE EASY TO SOURCE PARTS

you will need a top oven thermostat

nextwave, looks like you have a safety thermostat (TCO) on the back of the oven. Should have a red and red/white stripe wire going to it. If this opens it will cut the power to the display, part number is 316003606. The hardest part of this gig is pulling the oven out to change the t-stat out. Catriver.