20 Most Recent Delfield 032-F2FH ColdPro Solid Door Reach in Freezer 2 Section Questions & Answers

Hello, Changing your gaskets (aka: seals) is a pretty simple process. If you have your unit's model and serial you can write or call us and we can ID which gasket your unit needs. If you don't have that information we offer a custom made gasket option that's pretty simple too. Click here to view our how to measure and change your gasket videos we made. http://www.coolergaskets.com/how-to-videos/ Shoot us an email at [email protected] or call us at 855-288-2259 and we'll help make replacing your gaskets simple for you. - Matt CoolerGaskets

Possible solution to original question at top of page: Recently worked on a Delfield F2FH with the exact same problem. Would get to 12 degrees and then go up and down either to -10 degrees or up to 12 to 55 degrees. Although I cleaned the condenser coil of some dust it was not the problem. There was no icing of the evaporator either. The defrost timer was also working. There was icing of the lines coming off the compressor but this was simply a symptom of the real problem. After checking everything out carefully and talking more with the customer about how the unit was fluctuating in temperture I noticed something that I had not paid much attention to as a possible factor in the problem. It seems a previous technician had worked on the unit and was very sloppy in his work as he did not put many of the screws back in place after taking the unit apart. Two screws that he did not put back were the ones that secure the overhead outside front panel where the door switches are located. As a result the switches were only making a hap hazard connection with the striker pads on the top of the doors. Whenever the owner moved the unit or, wiped the panel or, even opened the door the top service panel would move slightly out of allignment causing one or both door switches not to contact the striker plates. This in turn shut down the evaporator fans inside the freezer compartment which then only allowed cold air to drift to the bottom of the inside of the unit. The temp control sensor, mounted inside at the top near the evaporator fans, was reading tempertures inside the freezer compartment warmer at the top as all the colder air was at the bottom. On this unit there was only about a half inch of tolerance on the door striker plates so if they were not alligned properly the fans did not come on. So, check your door switches and see if they are engaging. One or both of your doors may have dropped to low to fully engage your door switches due to worn bushing or hinges (each door will only turn half the fans on inside); your striker plates may be worn cracked or out of allignment; your top panel is loose and moving the strikers out of allignment. Don't forget to manually test the evaportor fans to see if they are all working. Do this by opening both doors and pressing both door switches. If the fans do not come on suspect a bad switch which controls the fans which failed. If all the fans come on the problem is in the contact of door to striker plate. If one or even two fans do not come on test the fan itself. The air must circulate insde to keep a proper temperture. I hope this was helpful.

[email protected] Appliance Technician

Look for: defrost timer not moving, i.e. locked up.
Contacts on defrost timer not making circuit to the defrost heater.
No power to heater.
Heater not working, open element, burned out, etc.
Defrost terminator defective. Not letting unit stay in defrost cycle. Could also interupt power to heater.
Defrost cycle too short. should be about 20 to25 minutes long and 4 times a day.
Evap fan motor not running or running inconsistantly.
Evap fan running in wrong direction or wrong speed.
Evap extremely dirty which blocks air flow.
Improper freon level.

I'd start with these items. Let me know if I can be of any further help.

You may have a slow refrigerant leak or too much refrigerant in the system. Contact an appliance service company.

I would expect at the very least a heater circuit around the freezer door. Some of the commercial units also have sprung doors to keep the doors firmly shut which you could check by opening the doors. Door heater circuits are normally very reliable and it would be worth checking the voltage is getting to them, they are also a pain to change out. Hope this helps.

try disconnecting thermistor and let run if ok replace it if not possible bad cooling unit

Your best bet is to order an OEM capillary tube and replace it. Of course this requires recovering the refrigerant. The likelihood of unplugging one is very very slim unless it is a very large bore tube.

step 1: check the freon level via pressures or weighing in the correct amount.

Any problem with it?

I've used a piece of wire and hot water

You most likely have a shorted refrigerant pump module.

the model says that this is a cooler/freezer combination unit. super heat has to be measured on each section separately. As a general rule: Freezers run around 6-8 degrees and coolers are 8-10. I have seen freezers go as low as 4 degrees right before they hit set point temp and shut off.