Delfield 18672PTB Commercial Refrigerator - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

http://www.retrevo.com/support/Delfield-18672PTB-Refrigerators-manual/id/9209ag217/t/2/

my chart says 32 ounces of R-404 A. Remember, cap tube systems are charged by super heat and TXV systems are charged by subcooling or full sight glass if system has receiver.

try disconnecting thermistor and let run if ok replace it if not possible bad cooling unit

step 1: check the freon level via pressures or weighing in the correct amount.

Any problem with it?

I've used a piece of wire and hot water

You most likely have a shorted refrigerant pump module.

the model says that this is a cooler/freezer combination unit. super heat has to be measured on each section separately. As a general rule: Freezers run around 6-8 degrees and coolers are 8-10. I have seen freezers go as low as 4 degrees right before they hit set point temp and shut off.

I have found 1 freezer with the identical issue and never found the answer to the issue. I tried everything I know to do and with no success. The customer ended up replacing the freezer. Sorry, but that's all I can offer.

Go to delfild support online

Your best bet is to order an OEM capillary tube and replace it. Of course this requires recovering the refrigerant. The likelihood of unplugging one is very very slim unless it is a very large bore tube.

Hello, Visit our site we have a few how to videos for replacing gaskets. It's a simple process. Some gaskets are snap in, or push in where others are screwed on to a retainer strip. Check out our How To videos here: http://www.coolergaskets.com/how-to-videos/ We'd be happy to help you locate the right replacement gaskets for your units. - Cooler Gasket Staff 855-288-2259 [email protected]

unplug it

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.

Sounds like the cold control has stuck . Unplug the two wires from the cold control and plug them together. Turn one wire over and plug it into the other. away from the cold control.
The cold control is the knob in the ref that turns it on and off and has numbers on it. (Thermostat)
If it runs then that cold control (Thernostat) is the problem.
If that doesn't work DO THIS:
The relay on the compressor may need replaced
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
Thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
also try hooking the two wires together on the cold control to route around the cold control.
Be sure the BACK COVER is in place and hasnt been accidently removed.

If you need more help GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html


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NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.

Sounds like the cold control has stuck . Unplug the two wires from the cold control and plug them together. Turn one wire over and plug it into the other. away from the cold control.
The cold control is the knob in the ref that turns it on and off and has numbers on it. (Thermostat)
If it runs then that cold control (Thernostat) is the problem.
If that doesn't work DO THIS:
The relay on the compressor may need replaced
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
Thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
also try hooking the two wires together on the cold control to route around the cold control.

If you need more help GO HERE:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
PLEASE VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

Ok so in this case the most likely reason the relay burnt out is because the compressor is tight and having problems starting so it burnt relay. Need to determine what LRA (locked rotor amps) is by looking on data plate on compressor and see if amp draw is at or very near the LRA spec. if it is the compressor is bad

Even if it's not a freezer the unit will have a defrost system and that seems to be your problem.

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

You need to install a thermostat to cut off control power to condenser contactor at a set temperature that you will have to set, let's say; 5 degrees for example. You should be able to purchase a thermostat at any A/C & refrigeration store. If you are familiar with control, this should an easy job.

Good Luck!

I would call and ask 1-800-733-8829