Top 20 Jenn-Air JGC8536 Gas Cooktop - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Generally there is a plug for the fan motor under the range, the panel where the drawer would be should lift off, you will then see the power to the fan motor. The fan motor is only 120Volts not 220V always unplug electricity before attempting to repair on any electrical appliance

Dear Genie, Well, you are right in your surmising! That water has shorted out perhaps as many as several items. One way to solve this problem would be to wait until the water dries up, could take days or a couple of weeks. Another way would be to take a hair blow dryer and dry the parts by blowing them for a while, perhaps 10 to 20 minutes, but to see if that fixed it, you would need to turn it on, which could cause a short! No good. Best idea is to take it all apart and see if there is visible damage, and to take and electric meter and test it all. God bless your efforts.

I think the heating element is blown. A new element should fix it.

see pics

The link below shows the different parts for that unit. There is a button under the items that says watch video. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/search.aspx?model=cvg4380

they will be frozen from one of the cleaning products you use and there probably not the 2 you use all the time. get some CRC or WD40 and spray a little on the shafts so that the lubricant can run down into the top of the gas valve. you might have some rubber covers at the base of the gas shaft that you might have to manipulate to get the lubricant into the gas taps. give them a couple of sprays at a couple of 1-2 hour intervals. then see if you can start to get the shafts moving by pushing and pulling on them. once they start moving get some more spray on them. should come good.

you dont recoat need to replace the part

You may need to turn the power/gas supply off until the problem is fixed.

Usually that's caused by clogged holes in the burners. I clean it out using a toothpick.

my blower switch shorted out. Could smell the plastic once removed. Liquids dripped into contacts during cleaning. Switch replacement obsolete. Found switch @ Ace. Made modifucation to panel to accept rectangular switch.

sounds like you may have a bad harness or bad infinite switch, you can test it with a multi meter. Surface burners are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals. On modern electronic control ranges,the oven temperature sensor is the part thatregulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meterbut will need to know the correctresistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. The infinite switch on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check foroverheated wires or faulty terminals first.Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.

1. If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.(Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.

1. On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.

1. Set yourmultimeterto ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.

1. Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".

1. If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.

1. With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.

1. A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.

If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. ) Most modern ovens usean electronic control board to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced. The oven burner igniter commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter.If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve.This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced. http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start/ https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Range-Stove-Oven/18---/Oven-won-t-turn-on- if the harness is damaged it may effect any of the others down the line as well causing the burners to act up as they are wired in series

Call Jenn-Aire to have a technician troubleshoot your cook top on site. You will save time and aggravation whether your cook top is gas or electric, possibly wired improperly, etc,etc,etc.

Here's the exploded view of parts assembly: My SC8720EDW0 Model Overview from PartSelect ca

Did you check the FAN?

Turn off range circuit breaker. Remove burner and measure the connections across it. See how many Ohms you get. Do the same to an identical sized burner which works well and measure its resistance. If the numbers differ considerably the burner needs replacement. You had mentioned you own a 'radiant' cook top which implies a glass type top, in that situation you may need to pull the oven out to get to the rear connections. If you decide to continue on this project you may have to pull out the lowest drawer, this will expose the safety bracket which prevents the complete oven from falling over and hurting anyone who may lean inadvertently on the oven door and cause it to tilt forwards. When the oven is slid to the front the first 5-6 inches keep it from tilting. This is mentioned now because once the oven is removed and is pushed back towards the wall afterwards, the bracket may not align properly and you may be puzzled as to why you can't move it back. In addition there may be a crowfoot connection (voltage) which needs to be disconnected if it's not long enough for access. Most ovens have a folded piece of paper in the rear which shows the schematic diagram. This is sometimes in a clear bag which sticks permanently to the oven. It's meant for the service technician. When the oven is removed and looked at from the rear a plate just below the burners may have to be unscrewed. This will show the various electrical connections. See the schematic for help...and before you undertake such a task, I'd suggest you would look on You-Tube on checking burners, etc. It may stop you in your tracks and get a serviceman to help you. There is a company called Appliance Zone which I used for my microwave front panel replacement. They carry everything for large appliances. They are good for parts and general assistance. If you have and use a VOM at home you seem to realize on how to apply your talents, otherwise I would consider getting professional help.

It sounds like it is getting to hot and going out on thermal. The probable culprit is the bearings are failing.

Igniters sense flame temperature, and if the fan cools the temp sensor down, your cooktop thinks the flame has gone out, so it clicks to reignite it.

Have a good look at the outside of the filter frame to make sure the plastic tags have not broken off also look at the mounting frame some of them have a simple clip that's easy to overlook. Ray

Knob is probably split/damaged and the hi voltage from igniter is running through it , remove knob inspect it and clean or replace it.

Check to make sure light indicator is completely in place. This is part that lights.