20 Most Recent Magic Chef (CSD2610KRW) Top Freezer Refrigerator - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Your defrost timer,defrost thermostat and defrost heater need to be checked.
The heater and thermostat are inside the freezer behind the back freezer panel.
The timer is underneath the refrigerator either the left front or right rear.

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly

Your symtom comment that it is barely getting cold leads me to think the problem is in the automatic defrosting of the refrigerator.

Your unit has a mechanical defrost timer. It is item 6 of this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5168518&diagram_id=1349648#d1349648

If you look at the panel all you will see of the defrost timer is 2 raised / tapered tabs that would only allow you to rotate those tabs in one direction.

Use a flat bladed screwdriver with a good blade or a rather wide flat ended kitchen utensil to rotate the defrost time until the compressor shuts off. That is the beginning of the defrost cycle. Leave the unit sit for about 1 hour and see if it performed the defrost cycle and restarted the compressor.

If the compressor did not restart.... there are other components of the defrost circuit that have failed.
Those components can be any one of the following:

1. The defrost timer itself.
2. The 60 deg bi-metal thermostat
3. The defrost heating element
4. A wiring problem to any of the above

If the unit did not defrost at all.... what you can do is perform a manual defrost by unplugging the unit, emptying the contents of the freezeer section and placing a fan blowing into the freezer section for just over 2 hours. This WILL make a WATER MESS so be ready to tend to the drips with rags and a mop.

After that 2 hour manual defrost reload the freezer and plug the unit back in. The temps should return to normal in about 4 hours.

If the manual defrosting corrects your no ice and warm fresh food problem then you for sure have an automatic defrosting problem.

One thing to note is.... if the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment is not running you will have a warm fresh food compartment and no ice. If the fan is NOT running and the compressor IS running the evaporator fan has failed.

The wiring diagram for your Refrigerator can be found here:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/frame_diagram.aspx?diagram_id=1326763&pkw_=basket&model_id=5168518&NewWindow=1

Thanks for using FixYa,

Kelly

Hi,
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

the condensate pan under your fridge has overflowed. this pan catches any condensation from the evaporator coils.

it sounds like a defrost element on the evap. if ice builts up and the elemet is not working then it will build ice on the evap and not cool.....

Could many problems causing this. From were is the leak, below the doors, that means the door seal is going bad, from under the fridge, it can mean the drip pan is full of dirt and muck. Pull her away from the wall and check the drip pan, some you can get to from the front some from the back. Under here is where all the stuff collects to muck things up. Get a Vac and clean her up, pull out the pan wash it off outside put it all back together, forget it about. 

Gee, I hope you didn't throw this one away. The cooling settings between the two sides are out of balance, or something is blocking the airflow between the freezer and the refrigerator. Make sure the ducts that blow air are not blocked, set both sides on a medium setting, and give it some time (12-24 hours) to equilibrate. Also make sure the fans are running and the coils are free of dust. I have to clear the coils of my current refrigerator once a week from accumulated cat toys. Generally the cat alerts me long before the fridge does.

On my three MC refrigerators over the last 30 years, this almost always meant the pipe that lets water into the icemaker is frozen. Sometimes it gets blocked (especially peas or corn). If it's frozen, use hot water and a turkey-baster type "sprayer". Do not use boiling water. If the freezer has been really active, you could have the plastic pipe in the back partly frozen, too. Be sure to shut off the water and be very very careful when moving the fridge. Some installers don't leave enough copper tubing to allow the fridge to be pulled all the way out. If the tubing gets crimped or broken, it's time to call a plumber.

The freeze-up pretty much always happened when the freezer was set too cold for the amount of food in it. When my kids were teenagers I had to unfreeze the line 2 or three times a year.

your drain line is frozen. you nee to put hot water down it

if the compressor is running your ref. should be getting cold.their is a defrost timer but when it is in defrost the compressor shuts off.I think you do have a leak.

The fan stops during the whole defrost cycle, there is a bi metal control that determines the length of time the heater stays on. This could be the problem, if the heater stays on for the time that is allowed by the defrost timer it will get too warm in the freezer. the bi metal is located on the evaporator.

You will need to replace the electronic mother board which is located in the back of the refrigerator,Inside rectangular cover near the bottom left.

EITHER YOUR ICEMAKER IS BAD(IS THERE WATER IN THEWELL AREA?)OR YOUR 2 WAY WATER VALVE ON THE BACK BOTTOM OF FRIG. IS BAD(ONLY ONR=E SIDE WORKING,LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU FIND-MIKE

I have the same problem. It turned out to be a problem with the doors. When my kids go to get a snack and close the fridge door (read slam the door) the air pressure pops the seal open on the freezer door causing the ice cubes to begin melting. The bottom items stay frozen (warm air rises). It took me a long time to work this out.
Remove the ice maker tray. Remove the ice blob, being careful to put the u-shaped wire ice-level sensing wire thing, in the up position or the system will dump ice and water all over the freezer. Put all back clean and dry and buy a velcro adhesive strip and install it on top of the freezer door to prevent the door from always blowing open.
Hope this helps

Hollow ice is a sign that the icemaker is not getting enough water.
You will want to make sure there is enough water coming to the fridge and any filters in the system are clean.
If you need help checking it, please post the complete model number from the fridge and I can help you more.

Does it do it all the time or only when the ice maker call for water... you may have a bad water valve 67006531 VALVE, DUAL WATER or a ice dam in you icemaker let me know

Question edited for clarity and good order. 11 cubic feet https://www.google.com/search?q=Magic+Chef+fridge+CTN1511BEW+cu+ft ..