20 Most Recent Jenn-Air JJW8530C Expressions Collection Dual Single Oven - Page 7 Questions & Answers

there's a door gasket that seals it not the metal part of the door so you might be able to stick your thumb in there as long as the seal on the door is closing tightly to the frame,when you open the door it should be on a 90 degree angle,before you had new hinges put on the door, most likely the door sagged lower to the floor and didn't close properly,if you think alot of heat is escaping you could have a bad door gasket.so open the door,look at it from the side,it should look like an L or at a 90 degree angle or even up a little,if it is the hinges aren't the problem if you think to much heat is escaping,call whoever did the work for you and have them check the door seal or gasket same thing.you didn't send the model number so i don't know what seal you need,go here and watch video should be similar and you can put your model number in to find correct part http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-gasket-oven-door-wpw10162384-ap6016005.html hope this helps you out,if heat is coming out with door closed and you have new hinges this is most likely what's wrong

You have a fault in the controller module. I suspect a bad power supply capacitor is feeding dirty voltage to the control electronics. Unplug the range, then open the control panel (usually you get into it from the back). Remove the control module (warning: handle it only by the edges to prevent damaging the circuitry with static electricity from your fingers). You may not have to disconnect everything at this point; you just need to see the component side. Look for any electrolytic capacitors that have a domed top instead of a flat top. Normal is flat top; domed capacitors are burned out. Also, if you see a smaller electrolytic capacitor that has obviously had its can enclosure pushed off the base, that would be bad. See the photo for a comparison of bad (marked with red boxes) vs. good capacitors. These capacitors are relatively inexpensive to replace, usually less than $1.50 US from on-line sources. I recommend using the Panasonic FR series as the most reliable replacements. It should be much cheaper to pay a TV technician to put in the parts than to buy a replacement controller. Note: if this is what you find, and you want to take the module out for service, first go to a computer parts store and beg an anti-static bag from them. Make sure it's big enough to hold the controller including the keypad (keypad connectors can be tricky; if you don't know how the latch on the connector works you can damage the connector or keypad cable, so leave it attached and let your technician worry about it). I don't have the service info for your model, so I wouldn't know what kind of latch it uses without seeing it. Again, handling the module only by the circuit board edges or whatever mounting frame it is in, place it in the antistatic bag for transport. DO NOT USE AN ORDINARY PLASTIC BAG; these generate static charges instead of protecting from them.

Good Afternoon, The control boards in your appliance may have failed. There is a display board, part number 71001799 and relay board part number 12001693. Commonly we see transformers on these relay boards fail with power surges. Luckily, we do test and repair these parts. Remanufacturing these controls will save you the high cost of buying new, and each rebuild will come with a 2 year warranty-- which is three times longer than new. Email me if you have any questions! [email protected]

Have you contacted Jenn-Air?

Needs a technician, you are going to blow yourself up, gas is nothing to fool with

most ovens require a 30 amp circuit breaker ( now RCD unit) talk with an electrician as to the requirement

Use a multi-meter to check the ohm's resistance of your temperature probe: should be 1100 ohms at room temperature = 72 degrees F. Range Stove Oven Temperature Sensor 12001655 Multimeter DM10T After time, the connections between the temp. probe and the control board usually benefit from being disconnected and re-connected to keep corrosion from interfering with the resistance redings the control "sees" from the probe...

jenn air wall oven dont like the design of the hinge itself door section has to be locked in .. but by the design of the door capture sure looks like the door can be removed for easier cleaning

I have the same double wall oven, and it will "turn on" and then shut off after about 30 seconds. The top oven stopped working 4 years, the bottom oven stopped working about 2 years ago. Both are doing the same thing. I'm interested in replacing the capacitors to see if that fixes the issue. There are 2 larger capacitors (1000uf 35v), and lots of smaller ones. Is it safe to assume it's the larger ones that need to be replaced? The only other 2 matching capacitors are very small (0.47uf 5v). I know this is an old thread but would appreciate any advice. Thanks!