Fender Stevie Ray Vaughan Stratocaster Electric Guitar Microphone - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The nut and the bridge are the pieces that effect the radius of a guitar, regardless of make/model.

The radius is the arc the frets and fretboard follow from side to side. Matching this arc with your string saddles greatly increases playability and comfort when playing the guitar. The nut follows this arc also, though not as intensely as the saddles. An improperly set bridge not only is hard to play on, but causes undue stress on the player!!

Fender does not provide the specifics; it's pretty much up to the player to set to their preference. I'd check out a music store to see what a new out-of-the-box Strat is set up like, just for reference.

Hi Bshirm10,

I was looking for the same thing today. I came accross your post while Googling for the answer.
Hopefully this link will help you. It helped me.
http://www.astraownersclub.com/vb/showthread.php?t=13451
Thanks to the guys over at astraownersclub.

Regards

All the info is on the headstock.

this should help you http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf_temp1/stratocaster/0134700_02C/SD0134700_02CPg2.pdf if it doesn't let me know

Sounds like your pick-ups are failing.

1982 was the first year for US Vintage Series and V-prefix serial numbers. You have to remove the neck in order to see a possible date stamp, either on the neck, or the body. So could be from 1982-to present as far as the year.

Search this site for one matching what resources of pots, switches and pickups you have:

http://www.guitarelectronics.com/category/wiringresources/

Check this site:http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/Electric_Guitar_Intonation.htm Hope this helps.

Here are two diagrams you need:http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf_temp1/stratocaster/0109200A/SD0109200APg2.pdf andhttp://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf_temp1/stratocaster/0109200A/SD0109200APg4.pdf Make sure your wiring looks like this. Check for a broken ground wire Also check to make sure that the .022K capacitor is soldered to the correct connections. The 5 way switch may also be wired up wrong or in need of replacement. Hope this helps.

http://www.guitarelectronics.com/category/wiringresources/ I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/william_83fc156eee2b555e

I'm guessing that in addition to your explanation, the guitar does not have currently have strings on it and you want to replace them. If so, this will fix your problem and is generally the best way to restring a floating bridge strat:

1) Remove the metal plate from the back of the strat. Inside you'll see the springs and the back of the bridge. Get yourself a thick piece of paper (or an ace of spades card like I do ;) and hold the guitar on your lap like you're going to play.

2) Gently push the back of the bridge up a bit and slide the paper/card in between the body and the back of the bridge on the front of the guitar. This will give you the room to get the strings through and slide the tremelo bar in correctly.

3) Restring the guitar starting with the low E, bringing it into pitch and then repeating in order with the other 5 strings. The card will fall out as the strings begin to put tension on the bridge. Replace the back plate and rock out vigorously.

Cheers,

NTIMID8

If you have power and a good connection to the guitar, don't take it apart - take it back. It has a warranty and any reputable dealer will give you another one - just ask for a test before leaving the store/shop.

change the plugs on the chords.or both.they loose their resistance.good luck.

What happens when you replace the original resistor? The change might eradicate the balance within the circuitry. It might be appropriate to connect a wire wound variable rersistor of say 10K in series with the original resistor to see what changes occur with small changes. Measure other known voltage points around that part of the circuit and note the changes as you increase the resistance. It would be helpful if you could send a diagram of this particular unit.

This is normal

You will need to isolate the fault to a particular stage. The two large valves are the power output valves and operate in push/pull mode. The next stage is the phase splitter and driver stage. The next stage is the tone control and compensation. The first stage is the pre amplifier stage. To eliminate the output and drive stage you will need to inject a signal at the top end of the master volume control. Touching this point wth a screw driver will inject enough hum to give a strong buzz from the speaker, if this is the case then fault is in pre amp of tone circuity if not. Check screen feed resistors for open circuit (wire wound resistors to screen pins of output valves). Check resistors to anode and cathode pins of phase splitter for increase in value. If the output stage seems ok then isolate the fault further by touching the screw drive to the grid of the valve in the tone network and then the pre amp valve. The buzz will get louder as you progress if the stage is working ok. If not check anode voltages and resistors. WARNING. dangerous high voltages exist in the circuits. Only ever use one hand when making contact tests, keep the other one in your pocket. If you feel this help is beyond you then please seek professional help. All the very best from Vintie

Check the back panel or underneath

Hi,here is a link that I hope will help you,as you do not give a model number:-
http://www.schematicheaven.com/fender.htm

If you need more assistance, please ask.

Regards - Anthony

Hi,

Seems that there are some harmonic distortions.
You can try to swap some tubes (12AX7), there could be just one tube who's messes up your sound.
If there isn't any change off this distortion, you must visit a technician.

Good luck,
Gerard

Have fixed this before. It is a power supply problem. Pro Line Music 215-736-8055