Thermador SC302T Electric Double Oven - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

I just would like to clarify what you posted. Are you certain it is "E2" and perhaps not "F2" ?

The "F2" on the SC302 wall ovens indicates an overtemp was detected by the onboard watchdog in the control board.

( The lock indicator being on is simply a byproduct of the unit being in self-clean at the time the error occured ).

What this means can actually come down to a couple of things, either an intermittent temp sensor or ultimately a bad main relay board.

In the SC302 service manual I have instructs simply to replace the temp sensor. If the F2 reappears replace the main relay board...but not so fast.

* The one exception which is not mentioned in the manual but I have experienced first hand in the field is this...A tripped overtemp safrety cut-out.

Here`s what to look for for this,

Fortunately if it is tripped, they are the manual reset type and are accessible behind the black grill/vent just above the door and just below the control panel next to the lock latch assembly.

**Turn off the 40amp breaker at your service panel or sub-panel in the home before attempting any service...safety first**

With the power off, you should be able to remove the grill and push the red button in the center of the thermostat and that should fix your problem...if indeed the hi-limit is tripped you`ll know immediately because you`ll feel it click as you push it down. It will look like the image below...





If you feel capable of repairing this yourself I can send you a complete service manual in a "pdf" attachment, however you`d need to provide an email address to where I could send it to you.

Other than that if you call in a pro just be sure they are an authorized B/S/H/ service provider ( B/S/H/ is the parent company for Bosch, Thermador, Gaggenau, Siemens products ).

Let me know and I`ll watch for your reply and respond as soon as I can.

macmarkus :)

sears should have them . ck searsparts.com. use your model # and you should be able to get them . and if not contact me at ([email protected].) and i will try to find them as some parts for this oven are n l a ..

Hello and welcome to Fixya.

I hadn't seen your post prior to today, so perhaps you've had a remedy presented to you already.

If you have not, reply to this post and I can recommend a few test to perform that will determine the issue with your oven.

Off the top it sounds like a possible faulty convection heating element or the K3 relay on the board is defective.

I'll watch for your reply.

Thank's,

macmarkus :)

Hello George, welcome to fixya.

The symptoms you describe are a common occurrence when the hi-limit has tripped. This typically occur's following a self clean cycle. The display will indicate the oven is indeed "on" but it will not heat do to the circuit being interrupted by the hi-limit ( which is what it was designed to do ).

Fortunately if it is tripped, they are the manual reset type and are accessible behind the black grill/vent just above the door and just below the control panel next to the lock latch assembly. **Turn off the 40amp breaker at your service panel or sub-panel in the home before attempting any service...safety first**

With the power off, you should be able to remove the grill and push the red button in the center of the thermostat and that should fix your problem...if indeed the hi-limit is tripped you`ll know immediately because you`ll feel it click as you push it down. It will look like the image below...

Let me know if I can assist you further. If this solves your problem please rate the solution accordingly, if not let me know and I`ll try to guide you through other possible scenario`s.

Thanks for visiting "fixya" and good luck.

macmarkus :)

Hello and welcome to Fixya. Do these symptom`s follow a self clean cycle of the upper oven ? Is your oven actually a SC302 double wall oven as the post header implies ? I ask because the symptoms you describe are a common occurrence when the hi-limit has tripped. The display will indicate the oven is indeed "on" but it will not heat do to the circuit being interrupted by the hi-limit ( which is what it was designed to do ). Fortunately if it is tripped, they are the manual reset type and are accessible behind the black grill/vent just above the door and just below the control panel next to the lock latch assembly. With the power off, you should be able to remove the grill and push the red button in the center of the thermostat and that should fix your problem...if indeed the hi-limit is tripped you`ll know immediately because you`ll feel it click as you push it down. Let me know if I can assist you further. If this solves your problem please rate the solution accordingly, if not let me know and I`ll try to guide you through other possible scenario`s. Thanks for visiting "fixya" and good luck. macmarkus :)

Try here:
http://www.manualsonline.com/ex/thread/view/idThread/3088468

Had the same problem. Replaced the display board.

Hi,
Before you go working too hard to get you oven to go into the self clean mode....check out this tip...


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3969401-self_cleaning_oven_problem

heatman101

" Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!! "

replace clock assy

Hi,
Cycling the power off and then on again will sometimes reset it...often you will have to call the customer service number to get the steps to take to unlock that...

Also check out this tip...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3969401-self_cleaning_oven_problem

heatman101

Hello



First double-check the gas supply. Look over the gas valves on the back of the oven to make sure gas is able to flow into the oven. If those look OK, call the gas company to see if there has been an interruption in service to the area or to the house.



If the oven grows too warm, the thermostat might malfunction and the thermostat is probably to blame for what you are experiencing.

The thermostat is the part of the oven that tells it when it has reached the desired temperature, shutting off the heating process. If one of the thermostat's components is broken or dirty, this can render the thermostat useless.

Cleaning and replacing the thermostat components is a process best left to professionals because untrained hands can easily break a thermostat that simply needed cleaning. If you suspect this is the issue, contact your local gas company. Sometimes, gas companies offer oven thermostat repair services.

Hello,

While the control board could be faulty, it is certainly not what I`d suspect initially. Do these symptom`s follow a self clean cycle of the upper oven ? Is your oven actually a SC302 double wall oven as the post header implies ?

I ask because the symptoms you describe are a common occurrence when the hi-limit has tripped. The display will indicate the oven is indeed "on" but it will not heat do to the circuit being interrupted by the hi-limit ( which is what it was designed to do ).

Fortunately if it is tripped, they are the manual reset type and are accessible behind the black grill/vent just above the door and just below the control panel next to the lock latch assembly.

With the power off, you should be able to remove the grill and push the red button in the center of the thermostat and that should fix your problem...if indeed the hi-limit is tripped you`ll know immediately because you`ll feel it click as you push it down.

Let me know if I can assist you further. If this solves your problem please rate the solution accordingly, if not let me know and I`ll try to guide you through other possible scenario`s.

Thanks for visiting "fixya" and good luck.

macmarkus :)

Hi,

The F64 on those oven`s is indicating the onboard watchdog ( control board ) has detected the cooling fan for the lower oven isn`t being detected or isn`t funtioning.

That may or may not be the problem though. I`ve found often it is actually the "sail switch" located in the vent of the oven ( at the bottom where the unit exaust`s ) is stuck either due to grease or being damaged during installation.

You`ll likely want to call in a pro to actually determine what is in fact initiating this error code, but it is definetly related to the lower cooling fan circuit.

Let me know if I can assist you further. Thank`s for visiting "fixya" for your oven inquiries and good luck.

If you feel as though you are capable to service this on your own let me know and I`ll attempt to guide you.

macmarkus :)

A manual If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

F25 means "multiple keys stuck". Try pushing each button on the keypad a few times ... maybe you can unstick them.

But a new display kit. 492071 is your part number. You can also send it for repair to company called CGindustries. Call thermadoor, they will advise you.
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There is no provision made for adjustment of springs,
I'm afraid the only solution is to replace both door springs.
Trust this helps solve your priblem.

its the display theat is fading away. I've haad meter's do the same thing after awhile and there's nothing you or I can do. Thanks for using Fixya

Its the thermal safety switch. When it trips - it cuts any power from reaching BOTH elements. Open the oven door - at the top wehere the oven latch is - remove the long black panel. In the middle - on the right is a small cylindrical switch...push down on the top - in the very center...it will rest the switch (like a circuit breaker) and then reassemble. Just did it on mine (2nd time) and it fired right up. Good luck

Dim display is TOTALLY independent of F7 error.
The display will dim as the display board capacitors wear out - due to the heat. Replace the capacitors on the display board (see my other posts) and your be able to see the F7 error code as bright as can be!