Thermador SC302T Electric Double Oven - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi,
If you cannot turn the breaker back on then it is no good...some breakers do take some very firm effort to get them to come on...but the oven may have ruined the circuit breaker...

Circuit Breaker Keeps Tripping

Self Cleaning Oven Problem


heatman101

" Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!!

erer
Hello,Sorry to read about your problem
Their is a 80% chance you heat element is defective. and 10% your control knob is defective or a broken or worn wire.

I have tried to help you. Please help me by vote/rate the response. Thanks If you live in the Denver Area. I can help you out.

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

check you 220 volt breaker at the ckt box

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response, thanks and good luck

Hi

F1 indicates a fault on the electronic oven controller (the clock) & F7 means a function key is stuck.

Check all the keys on the keypad if the fault remains you probably need a new clock.

Hi,

Seems like you found out the hard way what I wrote about in this tip...

Check it out it also contains some thing to try on how to unlock that oven..

Self Cleaning Oven Problem

heatman101

Asker's Testimonial " Wish I had read this first. I never would have usedthe self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!! " - amymrocks

Good luck with that - whenever we use the self-clean function it goes crazy on us - beeping, error codes - door locks up - have to reset breaker to make it shut down. The last time the door got permanently locked - nightmare!!
Also, there is a recall on some of the wall units - ours of course isn't part of that recall - Thermador doesn't care that we can't open our oven - they'd rather you purchase another piece of junk!!

Hi
The beep sound comes when the control (ERC) has gone bad and needs replacement. However, please let me know if you see any error codes as well. Hope this helps....
Daniel

Hello, I just saw you actually had created your own post, but not until after I had replied to your question from an earlier post of mine. This is how I replied...

Unfortunately the only way I know to open the oven door when in the lock position and it is inactive is a clothes hanger method. With the odd exception of resetting the house breaker which initiates the start-up watch-dog sequence...this rarely works, though it's worth a try.

This of course is an exercise in patience as it will most often take many attempts to pull the lock to the right while pulling the door forward at the right moment so it opens.

I can possibly provide the service manual, however it is too large to attach here so you'd need to provide an email address I can send it as an attachment.

I'll watch for your reply. Please confirm your model number as they are not all the same and the service guides vary depending on the model number.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hi, If the self-cleaning operation on your double oven will not work, make sure the oven clock on the upper oven shows the correct time of day. In addition, Make sure the Lock Lever is in the cleaning position, pushed all the way to the right on the top oven. If a delayed start time has been programmed, that may be the cause of the cleaning cycle not beginning right away.

Thanks for using fixya....

One of the most common problems with GE electric built in ovens is the error code "F7′ shown on the display. I've seen it many times before and today I had a service call for the same problem again. The error code "F7" will be displayed along with a beeping sound if the ERC (Electronic Range Control) or "clock" senses one or more buttons on the control panel stuck. It could be displayed in any mode: "cook", "clean" or even more often in the "time of the day" mode. In order to fix it, the control panel has to be replaced. This is a very simple job and you will need just a 1/4′ nut driver and a Phillips screwdriver.
To get the right replacement part just click on the link AppliancePartsPros then type the model number of your oven (it is located at the bottom left corner on the door frame of the lower oven) in the search box, click on the "search" button and in the new window type the word "control panel" in the "search by keyword" box and click the "search" button.
Always turn off the circuit breaker first.
Open the oven door (if you have a double oven, it should be the upper one) and remove three screws (on some models just two on corners) from the bottom of the control panel. If the control panel on your oven is made of stainless steel, then you have to pull the oven out of the cabinet for about 2′ to 3′ to get better access. Pull the control panel forward and up to remove the tabs on the top of the frame, out of the holes in the end caps. Pull the control panel out and turn it about 90° toward yourself (the face of the control panel down). Unplug the control panel ribbon from the ERC. Remove four screws holding the ERC to the control panel. On some models you also have to remove the screw which attaches the ground wire to the control panel. Let the ERC hang on its wires, remove the old control panel and replace it with the new one. On some models before you do it, you have to remove the end caps and the bottom shield from the old control panel and install them on the new one. Do not forget to plug the new control panel ribbon into the ERS slot. Attach the new control panel to the oven and turn the circuit breaker on. Set the time of the day and you are back in business

Hello, Welcome to FixYa. Yes this has been a fairly common issue with the Thermador wall ovens as well as their freestanding ranges. Typically the remedy will be replacing the hinges, but there is a "fix" you can attempt in the interim. At least in hope of keeping the oven light from being on all the time, hence damaging the control board which houses the oven lights transformer. If you can bare with me for a couple or three hours until I arrive home ( I presently am away and only have my iphone as a means to communicate and all my Thermador files on my PC ) I will post the suggested temporary "fix". Regards, Macmarkus :)

Hi, Before you go working too hard to get you oven to go intothe self clean mode(self destruct)....check out this tip...

Self Cleaning Oven Problem


heatman101

" Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaningoption. Thanks for the info!!

Bullet fuse to control panel Melted due to excessive heat from self clean mode. Just a guess> Typical fuse:
I have a manual around here somewhere Oh yeah in my TIP

Thermador 301/302 wall oven repair manualHelpful?
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

That seems to me like it could be an issue with the sensor. Ohm it out. It should be around 1100 ohms if it is any good. Check for shorts from each wire of the oven sensor to ground. I have a manual and a TIP I wrote about these Thermadors.
Thermador 301/302 wall oven repair manual If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi.

The LCD display is part of the control assembly. The original kit pictured below has been discontinued. To get the part call the seller at 1-877-477-7278, or contact Thermador at the number listed on manual:



Here all parts.

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Please clarify if I`ve misunderstood what you`re asking, but with all Thermador ranges and wall ovens ( including your SC302T model, most brands in fact ) the cooling fans will remain on for quite some time after actually shutting the oven off.

This is done by design to keep the electronics cooled to a temperature usually below 200°F so they aren`t damaged.

Heat after all is the thing which damages electronics more than anything else.

I do have use and care guides available via email attachments in "pdf" if you need one.

Thank you for choosing FixYa. I hope this eases your concern. Please let me know.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hi,

Cooling time has elapsed so this problem will occur.
Try these steps to solve the issue:

1)Unplug the unit or shut off the circuit breaker for 10 minutes. Plug the unit back in.Set the clock and gently try moving the door lock lever try Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.

2) Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever try opening the door.

If still the problem persist you have to manually open the lock.
There is three types of lock that will occur.These locks
1)Heat sensitive lock
2)Motor controls the lock
3)Solenoid lock

Solenoid lock is located at the back of the range.Remove the rear panel.
Solenoid coil Failure will cause the unit to lock.Do continuity testing on the solenoid coil and check its working.
A motorized or heat sensitive style lock will usually be located beneath the cook top on free standing ranges. The cook top would usually need to be lifted to access the locking mechanism.If the motor controls the lock then do continuity testing on the motor coil.and replace the motor accordingly.

post a comment for further assistance.
Thank you for using fixya have a nice day:-)

Hi,
Try turning the power off and then back on after a few minutes...
if that does not fix it often the best thing to do is to call the manufacturer cust. service number and let them talk you through it...

heatman101

Hi

Error E14 means latch switch problem. It may have happened due to a loose latch switch or due to loose wiring on the latch switch. To troubleshoot the issue, turn the clock selector knob to OFF. Adjust the oven control by turning the clock selector knob slightly to the left (counter clockwise). This may stop the flashing message/beeping and clear the display window.

However, if the issue is not resolved then you'll need to replace the latch switch. Turn the power off at the circuit breaker and open the door, you will need to remove the vent cover that goes around the door latch assembly, remove the latch assembly and check the latch wiring as well. Check this link for the schematics of your oven---

Thermador SC302T Electric Double Oven Schematics

Hope this helps... If it does please do not forget to accept the solution or post back for assistance.

Daniel

Hi,

Welcome to FixYa.

You have not mentioned if the oven has displayed any error code so I will take that for what it is...there was none shown.

With that, I`d start by looking for an overtemp cut-out tripped. Did this problem start following a self clean cycle ?

Here`s what and where to look for for this,

Fortunately if it is tripped, they are the manual reset type and are accessible behind the black grill/vent just above the door and just below the control panel next to the lock latch assembly.

**Turn off the 40amp breaker at your service panel or sub-panel in the home before attempting any service...safety first**

With the power off, you should be able to remove the grill and push the red button in the center of the thermostat and that should fix your problem...if indeed the hi-limit is tripped you`ll know immediately because you`ll feel it click as you push it down. It will look like the image below...





Ultimately it could be a faulty relay board or related to the timer, but I`d start with the hi-limit cut-out tripped first.

If you feel capable of repairing this yourself I can send you a complete service manual in a "pdf" attachment, however you`d need to provide an email address to where I could send it to you.

Other than that if you call in a pro just be sure they are an authorized B/S/H/ service provider ( B/S/H/ is the parent company for Bosch, Thermador, Gaggenau, Siemens products ).

Let me know and I`ll watch for your reply and respond as soon as I can.

macmarkus :)