20 Most Recent Whirlpool LEB6300 Electric Dryer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Hi,
There can be many reasons why your dryer will not turn...

This tip that I wrote will help you to figure out what is happening...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4422207-dryer_repair_dryer_not_turning

Dryer Repair ? The dryer will not start
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4460438-dryer_repair_dryer_will_not_start


heatman101

hi, the problem you are having is going to be with the belt that goes from the drum to the motor, if you can turn the drum freely by hand without any friction then this suggests the belt has snapped and needs replacing but if how ever when you turn the drum by hand their is some resistance then this could mean the belt has stretched or the motor has failed either way your going to need to get the back off to have a look.

let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

Hi Larry, The green wire is colored green to identify "earth" meaning it is a ground. Do not connect to "hot" nor "neutral", it MUST be connected to the chassis/ground only. That should answer your question. Thanks for coming to "fixya" and please take a second to rate this answer according to it's helpfulness. Good luck macmarkus :)

Unplug the dryer.
Remove the lint filter.
Remove the screws at the lint filter opening.
Pop the lid clips on the left and right front corners of the cabinet.
Rotate the drum counterclockwise until a tumble vane(paddle) is at the 12 o'clock position.
Tighten the screws going through the drum.
Repeat this for the other 2 vanes.
Re-assemble the dryer.

If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following two links explain how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is not the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.


Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Hi, as soon as you turn your dryer on, power is sent to these heat strips and they will glow red hot. This is normal. They will kick on and off through the drying cycle by several thermostats in the unit so it will not over heat. Nothing to worry about as you have 240 volts going to them.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

This complaint usually is attributed to clogged exhaust venting somewhere. As a process of elimination, remove the exhaust venting from behind the dryer and run your loads. If the dryer dries clothes properly, then your issue is definitely with the exhaust venting (e.g.: inside wall, attic, etc.). If possible, check the entire path of exhaust venting or contact a vent cleaning company.

Your issue could be at the circuit breaker box.

It sounds like the thermal fuse or a thermostat is bad.
If I can do anything else to help please let me know.

unplug remove the back, the heater box is to your right,the heater box fuse is on the left side top check it with your meter,the heater box element is on the bottom remove the 2 wires and check with meter,iam sure it is one of the-mike

check your door switch! make sure its working also check your breakers and recept voltage

Fairly simple, remove lint filter, remove two screws in front of filter,grab the top of the dryer and pull in towards you to unhook the front of the panel from the clips on the front panel. Tip the whole top panel back and lean against the wall, it has hinges on the back. With the dryer unplugged, make a note of how the wires attach to the door switch and light(if you have one), unplug the wires, remove a screw, from the top corner of each side, that screws from the inside into the front panel, Pull the whole front panel assembly straight up to unhook from the bottom side clips, note how the panel mounts back on. The whole drum comes out and you can get to everything easily now. If this is at least 6 years or older with normal usage, I always replace the idler pulley and the drum support rollers, as they all tend to fail about the same time. Ask for the red support rollers, not the white or gray ones. Vacuum the compartment out and reinstall the drum, then belt, then front panel, and close the top. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

check your wires and fuses next to the heating element. first one i would check is the white plastic one. that is a non resetable fuse.

HI. This may be a possible belt issue. the belt may have slipped off, or failed. To access, simply, remove the access panel on the rear of the unit. Once removed, you will be able to inspect the belt location.Replace the belt, if needed.

Additionally, if the belt is ok, i would recommend to move on to the door switch. Most units are designed to not spin, if the door switch circuit has failed. Use the procedure below to test this switch.


The door switch may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is located in the front panel of the dryer, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the dryer cabinet. When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports.

Access varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

Locate the door switch, it typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.

Now, if the door switch is ok, and operational, the motor will be the culprit.

well if its electric, first thing you should do is push the breaker into the off position and try it again, if still nothing, verify you have 240v out of the wall. if so, chances are you have blown thermal fuse ususally caused by having a backed up exsaust vent running through your house. you can find this fuse in the back of the unit. unplug machine, take off vent. unscrew panel, it will be white with a thin shape, 2 wires connecting to it and 1 screw holding it in place. part will cost less then 20 dollars at an appliance parts shop. make sure you clean your vent before you use it again.

Your temperature thermostat or heater coil is most likely bad, you can test by ohming each. NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

more than likely its your heating element, but you can first check and make sure you have 240 volts to the unit from the house panel as for fuses there are none inside the unit