20 Most Recent Whirlpool LER6636PW Electric Dryer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

There are 4 Thermostats / Cut Outs / and high limit fuses in that machine. Test the old ones rather than just buying blind. There are videos showing how to test them with a multimeter. https://www.partselect.ca/Models/WED8200YW0/Sections/BULKHEAD-PARTS/?ModelID=1656403&ModelNum=WED8200YW0&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=3&Selected=3OPLX5EN&Position=1&mfg=Whirlpool&Type=Dryer&Mark=1 42 Thermostat, Internal-Bias (14)Part #: PS11746740 CAD$43.42 In StockAdd To Cart 43 Screw Part #: PS11742721 CAD$7.06 In StockAdd To Cart 44 HOUSING Part #: PS2372643 No Longer Available 45 DUCT-LINT Part #: PS11746341 CAD$112.94 In StockAdd To Cart 46 Housing, Slot Heater Box Part #: PS11746335 CAD$87.44 Special OrderAdd To Cart 47 Thermal Cut-Off with High Limit Thermostat (2)Part #: PS991443 CAD$66.05 In StockAdd To Cart 48 Thermostat (1)Part #: PS11746386 CAD$79.62 On OrderAdd To Cart 49 BRACKET Part #: PS990350 CAD$42.98 Special OrderAdd To Cart 50 Cover Part #: PS11746328 CAD$94.71 Special OrderAdd To Cart 51 Disposable Thermal Fuse - Two Terminal (5)Part #: PS11741444 CAD$29.84 In StockAdd To Cart ..

if voltage from switch to motor bad motor if no voltage possible bad switch or control board

Remove the attaching screws at the bottom and swing the cap up.

The sound comes from a tiny element on the control board. Its volume is fixed and can't be adjusted.

Doesn't make sense does it! The pipes and vents might be blocked at the back, but then it would get very hot and trip out on the hi limit thermostat.

Try manualsonline.

Maybe the belt wasn't wrapped around the tensioner pulley near the motor.

Possibly a defective replacement thermistor

Make sure venting isn’t kinked behind dryer and be sure you have good air flow all the way to outside

Checking the switch would be a good idea - doesn't matter how much continuity you have, it isn't going to work if the power can't get in there, go round and around and then get out again. Continuity checks are the most use when it finds something wrong but it isn't unusual to find ohm meter checks misleading when elements or other things are wired in parallel circuits. Continuity checks really need each part of a circuit to be isolated or disconnected from the others - the ohm meter is a good way to check components but sometimes not a good way to check out a circuit. Clearly for the sake of safety the ohm meter is the first device to reach for but when those checks are exhausted without finding a definite fault it is time to use the voltmeter and chase the power through the circuit to find where it stops... If you don't like the idea of that very much, sometimes the most useful tool is the mains tester screwdriver - a small screwdriver with a neon bulb and a high value resistor in the handle and a metal cap - the working voltage is always engraved on the handle so don't get it mixed up with a similar looking screwdriver for testing car electrics. When a terminal is live and the screwdriver blade touches it and your thumb or a finger touches the metal cap the neon will glow. These gadgets are safe, cheap and indispensable in the handy person's toolbox...

Check your dryer for a gas leak in he supply line.

Sounds like the heating element is bad saying it's electric dryer.

f25 is a bad thermisiter,find the tech sheet in the dryer and it will tell you how to read out the thermisiter,if the thermisiter is good then you have a bad computer board.

https://consumerist.com/2012/07/27/owners-manual-error-made-my-steam-cleaner-self-destruct/

Replace your Timer knob. The contacts inside your timer that controls the motor has burned(arced) together. Not a hard part to place. BUT VERY HIGH VOLTAGE, so unplug. Or call a pro if not comfortable doing job yourself. Timer part # 3976576

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK: Thermal Fuse If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement. Igniter and Gas Valve Coils TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At timesit may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ? Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant. Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit. Air Flow and Heat The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all. Warning There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QP1Z4OWjTuA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKLDrzXlzHM GOD IS GOOD !!!! AND THAT IS WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast: Check your venting and lint basket.Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it) Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity it should show OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating. The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale at 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200) ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance. Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220, OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to create a fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater. Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats. For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement. In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?) Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually)Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet. Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity. A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats. Read more : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor. GOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMP7BW1lLs4

Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is onONposition. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt.The belt safety switch is attached to theTensionerand motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under theTensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly checkurDOOR SWITCH ?for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhVUEhngZMg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xD7lCXJ0ZM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTRP6kHqAFs Hey GOD IS GOOD !!!! WHICH IS WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

SOUNDS LIKE BAD MOISTER SENSOR SEE PICS

Typical operating voltage range is 4.75 to 5.25 VDC and 0 to 70C operating temp.