Sounds like a problem with the control panel wiring (wire(s) connected to wrong place(s)), although the control panel could be faulty. I would first carefully check all the wires at the back of the control panel against the dryer wiring schematic.
Probably a bad heating element. Sometimes one side will burn out before the other, so it takes a lot longer to dry. Then the other side burns out and it won't dry at all. Usually thermostats last longer than elements.
Hello. To test properly, the dryer must be put in diag mode--a key dance of pressing "more dry, less dry--more dry, less dry" within 5 seconds with the door closed and dryer off. All lights will be illuminated and "88" will be in the display. If you open the door and a tone is heard, along with seeing a software revision number in the display, this means that the moisture circuit is shorted. *If this does not happen*, then open the door and, using a wet cloth or finger, bridge the moisture sensor bars located on the filter holder(metal strips approx 1/2 apart and several inches long). If you do this and a tone is heard and the software revision number is seen, THE SENSOR PASSES THE TEST. If it doesn't, you're going to have to troubleshoot further with a voltage/ohm VOM meter, or better, call for service because, unless you've done this before and know what to expect, you are gonna be INVOLVED in disconnecting sensor wires and checking electrical resistances and so on. You'll have to remove the toe panel(bottom panel on front of unit) to access the sensor wires. To exit diag mode, simply unplug the dryer for about 30 seconds. One thing though, if there is a lot of lint build-up, the sensor bars could be shorted by a bunch of lint crammed between the contacts--have seen that one on occasion.
Remove the top of the fryer and you will see wiring all along the underside. You should see the a small disc shape about 3/4 inch high. That would be the thermal fuse. They are fairly cheap or you can bypass it for the time being until you get another fuse.
First try to unplug the dryer for 30 seconds, I then plug back in and see if it resets itself. Next, you will need to locate the wires that lead to the licking device and disconnect them and wrap electrical tape around the ends.you will have to disassemble the control panel to access it. It would help if you have the wiring diagram handy to make it quicker. It should be located on the back panel of the dryer which gives you access to the motor, wiring, etc.
When you say too long I assume the dryer does heat simple trick disconnect exhaust tube from dryer at bottom run a cycle room will get hot if dryer drys correctly then you have a restriction in the exhaust, dryer has to be able to breath just like a muffler on a car a restriction will cause the heat circuit of the dryer to cycle on/off on the hi limit instead of the cycling thermistor which will give you a long dry time hope this helps
If you've ruled out a loose connection either before or after the element then work backwards. It sounds like there's a switch that isn't closing but don't rule out a bad connection somewhere in the circuit or a problem with the timer.
The problem with your dryer is bad coils on the gas valve. Replace the coils, Part number: AP2150379 and the dryer should be back to normal.
To get access to the coils you have to remove the front panel.
Good luck.
I would first unplug the unit and remove the top cover. There are 3 screws towards the back of it. Push the cover back towards the wall and pull off. To the left you will see a control panel (usually black metal case), remove the 3 screws and flip over so you can see the control. Make sure there are no loose connections. I have ran into quite a few that had relay connection wires loose. If everything is ok. The next thing you would want to do is remove the front lower access panel (kick plat panel) and blower chamber. There is a thermal fuse and a thermistor located behind it. If you have a meter then take the proper continuity tests that are displayed on schematic. Both the thermal fuse and thermistor are fairly cheap. Click Here for a link to a thermal fuse on a Whirlpool Duet Dryer
One or both. Several factors here. First turn off the breakers and then back on. That settles the fuse issue. Next check the wiring at the terminal block located in the back of the dryer. Look for burned or frayed wires. Next check the element for a break or weak spot. Next check the relay which is under the top. Tie the 2wiresvtogether and see if it works then . If it does, then replace and you are back in business. If this does not work, let me know and we will go another route.
see this causes and fix it, use the common sense. God bless youPower from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged
in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses
two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if
only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of
the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are
connected.
Heating Element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit
breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of
special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No
continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The
proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on
the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common
reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element is easy to replace. Check our videos for other types of dryer heating elements.
Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover.
The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black
resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and
made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower
housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it.
Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for
obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and easy to replace.
Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at
the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still
tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially
defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose
connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
1) o.k test the thermal fuse see the video:2) Test the c. breaker from your house. unplugg the machine, if the c. breaker trigger in your home, the problem arise in your home.3) Plug the machine, if there are NOT tripped in c. breaker or fuse.test the switch door, see how to do it, see the video.4) Test the c.breaker inside of you dryer, and replace it.5) Finally test the motor, for faulty, measure the input voltage with VOM or DVOM if there are the motor is faulty, of course check any wires for loose, brokern or burn and repair. God bless you
