Whirlpool LGR5644J Gas Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

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It could be several other things thermal fuse, thermal cut out, hi limit thermostat, dryer coils, heat sensor,or igniter. All of these parts are inexpensive and easy to test and replace.There is a video at t http://appliancehelponline.com/gdryertroublevideo.html his will walk you thru the troubleshooting of these components. It may be a different model but the troubleshooting will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations. All parts come with installation instructions. Not all models are available. If you need help disassembling your machine there are videos of this also for most styles.

Yes, that is most likely the problem. Once the glow bar igniter glows so hot, the switch opens & drops power to the igniter.(The radiant sensor has continuity while cold & open when a flame is present.) At the same time, by opening it redirects power to the valve coils allowing them to open & gas flow to the burner assembly. The dying glow of the igniter fires the gas. However, if your igniter glows, the radiant sensor is good. In this case, you'd need to replace the gas valve solenoids.

You need to check the solinoids on the gas vale. They might work to start but after they heat up some they possibly could break down and shut off. There are 2 coils on the valve. When you first start the dryer you should head a distinctive loud click noise. that is the primary coil opening the valve. When that happens you should also see the glow bar lighting. after the bar lights you should hear one more loud click. Thats the heat sensor opening and allowing the other coil to open to allow gas to flow and ignite. If you do not hear the first click when you start the dryer, look in the back for a small white rectangular fuse with 2 small wires on it. (they may be blue in color) That is a thermal fuse. Use a ohm meter to check if it is pen. If it is replace it.If you heard the first click and the glow bar starts to light but nothing else happens, you eed to check the heat sensor. It is connected to the flame baffle at the end of the gas valve. It will have 2 wires on it. One white and one blue I belive. It is attached by 1 screw. ( 1/4") You will need to check that out with a meter also. If it checks good reinstall it. You will then want to ohm out both coils. Only one may be bad but I recomend you replace the both of them. You will also want to make sure that your vent is not clogged up. That too can cause the dryer to short cycle. Hope this will help you.

CHECK THE THERMAL CUPLAR ALSO CHECK TO SEE IF THE VENT IS CLOGGED IN BACK OF THE DRYER OR GOING TO THE OUTSIDE

There are about seven different possiblities and the prospective solution in each case appears to be replacement of a different part! I suppose if you have the proper testing equipment for assessing each of those parts, you might be favored with a relatively inexpensive fix. I would be embarassed to suggest you replace all in sequence until the dryer works. Thermal Fuse: The thermal fuse is a safety mechanism that prevents the dryer from overheating. If it blows, the dryer won't heat. Check if the thermal fuse is intact and replace it if necessary. Cycling Thermostat: The cycling thermostat regulates the temperature inside the dryer drum. If it's faulty, the dryer may not heat properly. Consider checking and replacing the cycling thermostat. Igniter: The igniter is responsible for lighting the gas burner. If it's defective, the dryer won't ignite. Inspect the igniter for any signs of damage or malfunction. Gas Valve Coils: Although you've already replaced them, double-check the gas valve coils. Sometimes, even new parts can fail. Ensure they are securely connected and functioning correctly. Ventilation: Poor ventilation can lead to longer drying times and affect ignition. Make sure the dryer vent is clean and not obstructed. A clogged vent can cause overheating and affect ignition. Door Switch: The door switch ensures the dryer doesn't operate when the door is open. If it's faulty, the dryer won't start or heat. Verify that the door switch is functioning properly. Timer and Controls: Check if the timer advances correctly during the drying cycle. Malfunctioning controls can impact ignition. Inspect the timer and control board for any issues. Whirlpool Dryer WGD4800XQ1 - OEM Parts & Repair Help - PartSelect.com

A "F4E4" (Low or No Line Voltage) code indicates there may be a problem with your home power supply, keeping the dryer's heater from turning on. The dryer will continue to run when this diagnostic code is present. Touch any pad to clear the code from the display and return to the estimated time remaining.

Push to start relay switch. NOTE: If the dryer will not start check the thermal fuse before ordering start switch. The switch is often not the cause of the dryer failing to start. pull the knob off the switch the answer should be visible

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nc_ERaNw4w This video may help you.

possible bad motor

Never 'hit' the Start Button, always press it gently. It is part of the main control board. Whirlpool dryers can be reset by disconnecting the power from the wall socket overnight. Apart from that, you would need to disassemble it and check the Thermal Cut Out, the Thermal Fuse and the Thermostat with a digital multimeter.

Is There a Reset Button for Whirlpool Dryers?

Hunker https://www.hunker.com > ... > Washer & Dryers This is done by pressing "Start" for a few seconds to restart the dryer. If the dryer does not restart automatically, select a new cycle and any options then ... ..

Question edited for clarity. You normally get inside them from the top and front. What are you trying to do? That is the important part! This gives generic advice https://www.google.com/search?q=whirlpool+dryer+wed7500gwo+belt+replacement ..

wow, that is a tale of woe. Well E1 is definitely the thermistor, but you can check it with a multimeter. It may be a bad batch, or it could be the wiring. You should never replace components on guesses, fuses and elements are an easy test. The remanufactured board may also be at fault. The unscrupulous take them off machines, clean them and sell them on untested. https://www.google.com/search?q=E1+Error+on+Whirlpool+Duet+Dryer ..

It is a GAS dryer, that means you can't work on it yourself. Only registered qualified gas technicians can work on gas appliances and that is the law. Plus, if it is the main control board, you want professional diagnostics due to the cost of them.

Try kit 4392067. It's the 4 roller wheel kit with belt and pulley. I use them all the time on that model, but without the Y in the beginning. Not sure what the variation is there.

Aha, a new question Meri. Not 'lifting the LID', 'removing the TOP' of the Dryer. The videos show the job.

Item 2 on this page shows the detailed instructions. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/509275/Whirlpool-Wed5600xw0.html?page=7#manual ..

call whirlpool number is in manual.

You didn't give the Model # but I brought up this site and each part has a replacement video with it. https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts?query=WED8740DW If incorrect Model just imput your's and go from there. Best to you.

Check here and watch video on thermal fuse replacement... https://www.repairclinic.com/ProductDetail/697009 Best to you.