20 Most Recent Whirlpool LEQ8000JQ Electric Dryer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Hi,

• Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

• If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.

• Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.

Hope this will fix your problem for sure.

Hi,
A dryer may not start for many reasons...
This tip that I wrote will help you to figure out what is happening...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4460438-dryer_repair_dryer_will_not_start

heatman101

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem....usually it turns out to be the motor or the belt..

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4422207-dryer_repair_dryer_not_turning

heatman101

Hi,
There are a number of reasons why the heat is not working...

Check out this tip for help figuring out your problem...


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

heatman101

read out the sensor with a meter on the left side of the ignitor,also check the thermal fuse located on the blower wheel housing, make sure you pull one of the wires off the fuse when you read it out,what kind of a dryer is it and send model number,on top it says it's an electric dryer,if it's not one of those parts you'll have to make sure you getting voltage down to the ignitor,you could have a bad gas valve or,timer,make sure when you pushed the wires back on the coils they're all the way on but before you buy another part check it out with a meter

There are drum felts / seals in the front and back of the drum. If either of them are overly worn the drum will drag. Also if an article of clothing got wedged in either of the seals it will act as a brake.
Before you head off for a belt I would gain access to the drum and check the drum seals and the rollers underneath the drum. If the rollers are sticking that too will make the drum hard to turn. When the drum rollers stick they usually end up with flat spots on them and must be replaced.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

p.s. dont forget to reconnect the door switch if you took off the front panel.

first check the door switch ,then the main fuse behind the back panel on the left-mike

I think you are experiencing a problem with the motor start capacitor. You may have to remove the motor to have this repaired. Take a picture of the wiring with your cell phone or other camera before you disconnect anything so you will be able to reassemble.

Thanks for your intertest in FixYa.com

check the ignitor, the valve coils, or may be a thermal fuse

BAD TIMER

THis could be your element or the t-stats that have gone out on this unit. Can you open the dryer and remove your element? If you can, check it to see if there are any breaks or burnt spots on the coils. If there is, it is your element. If it isn't, it is most likely your t-stats. We have a kit that has the t-stats all in one kit.

Just contact us at:

http://www.fixya.com/repair/d499389-accurate_appliance_repair_service from 7 AM until 7 PM CST and we will get the parts out to you asap.
We look forward to working with you. Thanks, Ella

Your rear connecting exhaust vent must be removed and cleaned out.
If it is the flexible vent material it must be un-kinked or mashed when reattached.
Run a 50 minute timed dry cycle with the vent completely off.
If the load dries OK,the connecting vent is the problem.

THE MOTOR HAS BURNT OUT

More specifically, the timer can be heard running, starts and stops when door is closed/opened, so not likely to be the timer. You have a problem at the motor. A wire off a terminal, the switch on the motor, or the motor itself.

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt
If you have to replace your drum belt and if you have a front loading machine.
Remove the electrical box that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good luck,
I hope this helps

Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication.
If you have a front loading machine, Unplug the dryer, remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum and belt, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers.
Check your rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them replace them.
If they don't then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good Luck,
I hope this helps

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Turn off you power to the dryer and then,
You could run a coat hanger straightened out with a hook bent on the end of it into the lint vent at try to hook the sock.
But probably you will have to remove the back to follow the lint vent.
You may try to remove the vent hose and run the straightened coat hanger in there to try and remove the sock.
Hope this helps

The heating element may be bad.

Disassemble the dryer and check the belt for obstructions now... before it is too late!