One thing you can do is make sure condenser coils have plenty of area around them (nothing lying against refrigerator) to prevent air flow. If possible vacuum and clean condenser coils and make sure freezer door is completely closed.
Hello;
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
I see this problem all of the time. That is why I recommend either a top freezer or side x side.
1.) You have guide rails on drawer type freezers. These become iced up to the point you can not open the door. If you try to force the door you may damage it.
2.) If the door is dot tightly sealed, condensate will get in the freezer. Hot goes to cold like a magnet. Hot air and cold air equals condensate.
3.) How do you fix the problem? Unfortunately, you can not get to the door guide rails to clean the ice of from them. You are going to have to unplug your unit to let the rails defrost to the point where you can pull the drawer. This can take up to 24 hours depending how badly the guide rails are iced up.
Did the Part numbers match exactly (between the old and new parts)? Is there anyway you could have crossed and wires? It's possible that the controller board is malfunctioning, I don't have schematics to give you any additional info.
there is a switch that opens a solenoid on back of fridge , check solenoid is working , Current has to be applied to solenoid = be careful if you don't know what your doing .
The wire arm that travels up ad down when it dumps ice. Lift the arm to the horizontal position and it should stay there. The ice maker is now off. Push the arm back down and the ice maker is on.
Did you recently move the fridge? One possibility is that the supply line in the back of the fridge is kinked. Usually it is coiled so you can move the fridge out and back damage but if it gets kinked, it would limit the water supply like a hose does when kinked. Also, the supply line is usually tapped from under the sink. Make sure the valve that supplies the line (usually 1/4 inch line) is fully opened. If that fails to help, then you're back to the solenoid valve for water that is not fully opening. Should give a solid clunk when actuated. G
It sounds like it has frozen up you will need to take out the backs and clean it out, it is not hard to do just go slowly and remember what you are doing if not sure write it down. the eletics come out easy there is a small clip you need to press then pull out okay good luck, if need anymore let me know.
I had that problem as well, look to ensure the little "door" that the ice comes out of still has the spring attached and keeps it closed, if that little door does not close it allows ice to build up in there and the "warmer" air in the kitchen to get up into it melting the ice and causing nothing but grief..
There are two sides to the water control valve=> WR57X10051 Dual Water Control ValveIt's possible the side for the ice maker has failed. Try filling the ice maker with tap water and allow it to freeze. If the ice drops after freezing and the ice maker does not refill this will point to needing replace the WR57X10051 Dual Water Control Valve If the ice maker does nothing then that points to the ice maker itself=> WR30X10093 Ice Maker Assembly I will be here should you have questions, Thanks Sea Breeze
With the doors fully opened, lift up the base grill. Tilt the top of the base grill away from the refrigerator. Set the base grill aside. Attach the 1/2-inch socket to the ratchet. Inspect the arrangement of the bolts located in the area where you removed the base grill. The bolts located to the inside of the door hinges are the leveling bolts. The top bolts adjust the back of the refrigerator, and the bottom bolts adjust the refrigerator's front edge. Adjust the leveling bolts as necessary with the 1/2-inch socket attached to the ratchet. Turn the bolts clockwise to raise the corner or counter-clockwise to lower the corner. If you notice the head of the leveling bolt pushing away from the face of the refrigerator as you loosen the bolt, re-tighten the bolt until the head pulls back flush. Switch to the other corresponding bolt to adjust the level of that side of the refrigerator.
Please get back to us if you have further query or else please accept the solution.
Hello Check fill tube that puts water into ice maker. You may need to use hair dryer to thaw out. Look for a tube that comes out of back wall of freezer behind ice maker section. Make sure its there and pushed all the way in .This is a bad GE design. (could have fallen out)
Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong.
If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...
Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...
this is most likely caused by a faulty water fill valve. Refrigerators that have ice/water in the door have two fill valves, one for the ice maker, one for the water dispenser. They are usually located on the back of the refrigerator about 6 inches or so off the floor. Some are located in the front behind the kick plate. They are not difficult to replace. You can order them online. Be sure to turn the water valve behind the refrigerator off before you disconnect anything. it is also a good idea to unplug the refrigerator. As long as you plug it back in within 30-40 minutes the food should be fine.
