20 Most Recent KitchenAid Superba® Architect® KSRP22FS Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

You already done that, so check the overload protection and the relay of the refrigerator. This is cover in the compressor motor. It easily to open, you just need a flat screw driver for that. Also you need a continuity tester to test that part(s).
Overload protector can be check it's continuity, if it is open then it is defective. While the relay now a day is a solid state or Integrated Circuit type, it can only be check by comparing the resistance to the new one.
Thanks for asking.

Hello there:
There's no ice If your ice maker has stopped producing ice completely, check these, in this order: It may be turned off. Look for the wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If the wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. If so, try one of these: If your ice maker has a small red plastic lever, lower it to lower the wire. If there's no plastic lever, simply lower the wire. In either case, the ice maker should begin producing ice again. Also make sure that the temperature is 8 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. If the freezer is too warm, the ice maker won't cycle properly. The ice maker fill tube may be blocked with ice. If so, melt the blockage using a hair dryer-but be careful to not melt any plastic parts! Also replace the water shut-off valve or water-inlet valve, or both, if necessary. The ice maker head assembly may have broken parts. Look to see if the gears are broken. Check to see if the small plastic arms that rest against the ice rake are broken. If the ice maker head assembly is modular and you've found broken parts, you can just replace it. Please try these and see if it helps if not let me know and i will do my best to further assist you ok?
Best reagards mike

as long as it just glues on, no problem,do not screw into facias/sides of any fridge /freezer.

The next thing to check would be to remove the line from the inlet valve that goes to the ice maker and blow into the line. Make sure the line is clear if you cant blow through it check your fill tub to make sure its not frozen. You could also try switching the wire harnesses for the solenoids (if they are both the same) and then call for water through to door (which in turn should fill your ice maker if you switched the harnesses) Then you would know that the valve is operating properly.
Hope this helps _MJ_

you have a blocked drain, shut off the control to the fridge so the fan doesn't blow,take out the racks and remove the inside back wall of freezer,melt out the ice with a hair dryer,now you have to unblock the drain,i use a steamer to do this,you can get one for around 50 bucks,they have alot of other uses,good tool to have,stick the nozzle in the drain hole and blast it,the steam will sanitize the line and clean out whatever is in the drain,when you think it's clear pour hot water down drain to make sure it's clear.a piece of food or other stuff could have fallen into the drain or slime builds up in the line over the years

Troubleshoot step by step and if that fails, resort to a professional: Check the Basics: Make sure the refrigerator is plugged in and receiving power. Verify that the water supply to the refrigerator is turned on. Inspect the Dispenser Actuator: The dispenser actuator is the component that activates the switch to send voltage to the dispenser. Check if the dispenser actuator is damaged. If so, replace it with a new one. I list a procedure for testing this actuator at the end of these basic steps. Frozen Water Tube: Disconnect the water supply tube at the bottom of the door. Blow air through it. If air doesn't pass through, the water supply tube may be frozen. Thaw it out and ensure the freezer is set to the proper temperature (0-10°F) to prevent future freezing. Water Inlet Valve: The water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser. Ensure the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. Use a multimeter to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If it lacks continuity, replace it. Check Water Filter: Remove the water filter and dispense water. If flow increases, the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace the water filter if needed. Verify Water Supply Valve: Ensure the water supply valve (connected to the refrigerator) is fully open. If disconnected during service, it might not have been turned back on fully. And now, the testing of the actuator. To determine whether the dispenser actuator in your KitchenAid refrigerator is damaged, follow these steps: Visual Inspection: Look closely at the dispenser actuator. Check for any visible signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, or breakage. If you notice any physical damage, it's likely that the actuator needs replacement. Functional Test: Press the dispenser lever or button as you normally would to dispense water. Observe the response: Does the actuator move smoothly and engage the switch behind it? If the actuator feels stiff, loose, or doesn't move at all, it may be damaged. Listen for Clicking: When you press the dispenser lever, listen for a clicking sound. The actuator should make a distinct click as it activates the switch. If there's no click or an unusual noise, it could indicate a damaged actuator. Multimeter Test (Advanced): If you have a multimeter, you can perform a continuity test on the actuator. Disconnect the refrigerator from power. Remove the actuator cover (if applicable) to access the actuator. Set the multimeter to the continuity (ohms) setting. Touch the multimeter probes to the actuator terminals. If there's no continuity (infinite resistance), the actuator is likely faulty. Remember to exercise caution when working with electrical components. If you're unsure or uncomfortable performing these checks, consider seeking professional repair assistance. Remember to consult your Owner's Manual for specific instructions related to your model. Much of this information comes from the RepairClinic site.

Question edited for a lot more clarity, 'make model (what it is)'. Question moved for correct category. Yes they are, direct or from Parts Suppliers. https://www.google.com/search?q=KSRS25Q+WH11+door+gasket ..

Possibly you r hhermostat in Fridge section gone bad. (if freezer working then most likely (if freezer at top & fridge has Iced up or food in the freezer or fridge Is Blocking the Air vents inside that circulates the cool air flow to Bottom or top, check & listen to see if Fan is working inside freezer /fridge worst case scenario is (if you have a p.c board on top , that could b a Fault there also (then you need a Tech, ).

You didn't say but you need to turn the breaker off for 10 minutes. Best to you.

I would check the door seals as if not sealing damp air will enter and condense, causing water everywhere.

If the interior controls and lights in your KitchenAid KBFC42FTS refrigerator are blinking but there are no alarms or error codes displayed, it may indicate a problem with the refrigerator's control board or power supply. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Power cycle the refrigerator by unplugging it from the electrical outlet or turning off the circuit breaker that supplies power to it. Wait for a few minutes and then plug it back in or turn on the circuit breaker.
2. Check the refrigerator's power supply by ensuring that the electrical outlet is working properly and that the power cord is securely plugged in.
3. Check the control board for any signs of damage or corrosion. The control board is usually located on the back of the refrigerator, behind a panel. If you see any damage or corrosion, you may need to replace the control board.
4. Check the wiring connections between the control board and other components such as the lights, fans, and sensors. Loose or damaged wiring can cause communication issues and blinking lights.

If none of these steps resolves the issue, it is recommended that you contact a professional appliance repair service for further assistance. They will have the necessary tools and expertise to diagnose and repair the problem.

1. Check if the fridge is level. If not, adjust the leveling legs.
2. Verify that the condenser coils are clean and free of obstructions.
3. Check the temperature settings and adjust if needed.
4. Ensure that the evaporator fan is working properly and not obstructed.
5. Check the condenser fan for proper operation.
6. If the high-pitched noise persists, it could be a sign of a failed fan motor or other mechanical issue, and a professional repair may be necessary.

Hi, Please remove any facades on the microwave first. This should expose the screws the keep the door on the microwave. Once you remove the door then you can achieve your goal. You might also call kitchenaid to get schematics for the microwave to help you when removing the facades. Thank you.

Not knowing all the details I am just guessing here I have seen this happen more then once, when power goes off and comes back on sometimes there is a power search causing too much electric in one spot and burning out the component such as a light bulb but that is a easy fix, you can buy an appliance 40 watt bulb just about anywhere and replace it

I would say more than likely the small tube carrying water to the ice maker probably needs to be blown out small air blower or through or through same tube by mouth

hinge damaged /bent or worn and the hinge has adjustments on it --if low make a bushing from plastic-washers not cardboard

Question edited for clarity. Model KB*F* Question moved to KitchenAid Refrigerators. It is a French Door refrigerator isn't it? They only open from the centre. https://www.google.com/search?q=KitchenAid+KBFs20ETSs00+reverse+door

Kitchenaid KBFS20ETSS00 Manuals ' ManualsLib

https://www.manualslib.com > ... > Refrigerator Manuals and User Guides for KitchenAid KBFS20ETSS00. We have 2 KitchenAid KBFS20ETSS00 manuals available for free PDF download: Use & Care Manual, Cabinet Parts ... ..